The Newman Skoolie!

[Jman6631]

Thanks, yeah the driver side heater is immediately inside this housing, probably 2" inside. I could go that far upstream but that's about it. That's what I'd prefer to do only that I can't figure out how to do the work I need to do in space that tight with the hardware I have to use (hose clamps) or to sweat copper. Short of removing the lower heater housing completely I see no way to access it. So I'm as upstream as I can get...bummer...

[Jolly Roger]

Hi, commercial plumber/pipefitter by trade I have actually succesfully sweated small copper 1/2&3/4 in extremely tight place with a heat gun it was more of a commercial electrician style which gets hotter than a paint stripper style but the 3/4 took two guns to get up to soldering temp. And as soon as you drop the second gun hit the backside with the solder first while the joint is the hottest then one gun will take care of the rest not as quick as a torch but I didn't burn anything else up or start fires and got the job done a couple of these chances were on aluminum finned coils that a torch would just completely eat the fins for lunch.

[Jman6631]

Thanks Jolly Roger! I'll keep that in mind when it comes to starting the build-out next Spring/Summer. If it looks like my harry homeowner fix should be upgraded to copper then I'll take it on then.

Thanks again!

[armlann]

Nothing useful to add, just a comment about this place saving me from self inflicted mistakes. I'm in the planning stage but the tip here about being careful about glass and grinder debris - priceless! Wouldn't have thought to cover windows with more than plastic but for this thread. Thanks for the info.

Jon

[Jman6631]

For sure armlann, I was in my bus just the other day for the 20 minute run every two weeks and the sun was shining brightly through the windshield. I was really disappointed in the pitting and how obvious it was, and how likely it would impair vision while driving. It's a concern for sure.

As you point out, there is a TON of value on this forum. If I'd just read a "little bit" more I'd have avoided it.

Speaking of which, have you read the Millicent Chronicles and also nat_ster's build? HIGHLY recommend you do...here's Millicent's link:

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/th...gate-1564.html

[Jman6631]

Hey sdwarf36, do you mean terminate close to the engine and take the driver's heater out?

[sdwarf36]

I misread where you were-thought this was at you rear heater.

[Jman6631]

I gotcha, this is after I removed the rear passenger heater and terminated it at the heater box to the lower left right next to the driver. The copper stubs at that driver's heater coming down to receive the coolant piping are just inside the box and "just" out of reach.

In the long run I'd really rather not go with the tubing and elbow rig I installed. What about compression fittings instead?

[sdwarf36]

I'd rather rubber hose myself.Good flexability + a known working system. If you find a formed piece of hose it would be 2 connections less.

[Jman6631]

Agreed and I did look for a formed hose but didn't find one at the retail level, yet. Then with the storm coming I just used what I had on hand, blahblahblah.....

[sdwarf36]

Go to a good parts store-tell them what you're looking for-tell them to let you loose in the hose isle. Look around-some part number might have the bend you need.

[Jman6631]

Hey folks,

I'm gearing up for my roof raise and need to learn how to disable and remove the rear door latch sensor so that I can start her up w/o it being connected. I've looked and looked and can't find a reference. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks in advance!

[EastCoastCB]

Does it have two wires or four?

[Jman6631]

I believe this makes it a two wire unit. Here's what it looks like:



Now, after I removed the cover to take this pic the bus won't turn over. Normally she starts up immediately, every time, now nothing.

[EastCoastCB]

Try screwing it back down and see if it starts.

[Jman6631]

Do you mean the whole unit back to the wall or the switch inside the unit?

[Docsgsxr]

I think the switch just needs to be pressed in a contact mode. Have someone hold the button in and try to start it, if it starts, then all you have to do for the short term is bypass that switch.

If that is the case then you cut the wire before and after the switch and mend them so it completes the circuit.

-Doc

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Docsgsxr

I think the switch just needs to be pressed in a contact mode. Have someone hold the button in and try to start it, if it starts, then all you have to do for the short term is bypass that switch.

If that is the case then you cut the wire before and after the switch and mend them so it completes the circuit.

-Doc

Complete the circuit and you can start the bus.

[Robin97396]

That metal casing, housing the switch, is no longer grounded to the body of the bus. That's why the switch doesn't work anymore. Either touch the metal housing to the bus body or screw it back in place so you can start your bus again.

I'm not an expert of those safety switches on doors. I follow the sound to where the noise is and disassemble until it stops. On mine that allowed it to start again and got rid of the buzzer.

[Jman6631]

Thanks guys,

The housing was screwed back into place so there is contact being made so it can't be that simple, unfortunately. Also, there is no tell-tale buzzing or alarming at the switch, or anywhere else for that matter, so the issue must be elsewhere.

Thing is, I haven't moved it or done anything to it since the last time I started her a week ago, she normally starts right up, and now nothing. Just a dead ignition.

I leave early tomorrow for a ten day business trip so it will have to wait. Can anyone think of anything obvious I may have missed or should look for? Like I said, she's been a 100% solid starter since I got her late last year and now zippo.

Thanks again to all!