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Old 08-01-2016, 09:15 PM   #311
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
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Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
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Ain't it amazing what can be accomplished with just a little beer!
Liker is quicker
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Old 08-01-2016, 09:17 PM   #312
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Year: 1946
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Just make sure the work is done BEFORE any beer or likker is distributed.
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Old 08-01-2016, 09:37 PM   #313
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You learned the hard way too, huh?
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:07 AM   #314
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Jman6631
1) All of the welding advise is spot on. During my time on my associates degree I spent 6 weeks in welding class. I can weld pretty good. A good (Miller, Lincoln ect) welder can make you a better welder but I still think a cheap HF welder can work just fine for most needs. I use a HF welder when needed at work on the jobsite and suits my needs just fine.
2) Hopefully your buying or working on the bus didn't lead to the divorce. Not mine but some women seem to have an attitude with projects like this.
3) keep us updated
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Old 08-05-2016, 02:06 PM   #315
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Year: 1986
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Wow, Jolly Roger, thanks...way to blow my fantasy! How are you keeping the bolts from rattling loose and backing out?
All of my seats and everything underneath like the drivetrain the springs,shocks axles,wheels and so on are bolts and nuts and are a pain to get apart?
Use
Lock nuts,lock washers and if you are that scared of your nut tightening abilities put a small tack weld at the nut and bolt but make sure it is where you can cut it off later for when you have to re-do a frame cause you hit a speed bump or bottom out in the grass somewhere hence the twist able movable framing that will give if needed then the only thing your out is the sheetmetal doors or whatever instead of angle welded to be immovable but moved,twisted,buckled,bowed and wasted?
Just my opinion.
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Old 08-07-2016, 02:24 PM   #316
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Thank you all again, I do appreciate the input. I am reconsidering some of the underframe welding for the flexibility reasons you all point out. Yes, if I go with bolting I'll use lock washers and loctite for sure! Hadn't thought of tacking the nut on but that's interesting.

I thought I would weld the angles that will be attached to the bus frame and then bolt the rest. After pondering for too long I suddenly realized that if I insist on welding it all then how am I to remove the potable and gray water tanks if I need to replace them or work on them? Same goes for the split system AC unit I'm going to do and also the storage bins.

On another note, I'm still having cranking issues. Last Friday I took my existing cranking batts to Interstate and traded them in for new ones. But, now I'm getting the exact same thing. Check this out:

https://youtu.be/DaOGeP5YcBA

The cranking volts still seem low at ~10v-11v. Just like the old batteries. In fact it's lower than the old batteries. When they were holding a charge it would be just under 12v. So, it would seem I have another issue at hand? Any suggestions where to start?

As always, thanks in advance!
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Old 08-07-2016, 04:22 PM   #317
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Those batts are reading low on the volt meter. Fully charged 12V batteries should read >12.5V, no-load. I would check the alternator and/or voltage regulator. Try putting them on a 6+ Amp charger. Keep them charging until the ammeter dips below 3A.
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Old 08-08-2016, 10:33 AM   #318
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Originally Posted by BusFiend View Post
Those batts are reading low on the volt meter. Fully charged 12V batteries should read >12.5V, no-load. I would check the alternator and/or voltage regulator. Try putting them on a 6+ Amp charger. Keep them charging until the ammeter dips below 3A.
I'll check the no-load charge today...didn't think I had to on new batteries - DOH!

I'm not sure what you mean about charging them until the ammeter dips below 3A?
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Old 08-08-2016, 10:59 AM   #319
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If your battery charger is old school, it will have a meter (amp meter or ammeter) on it that displays the current (amperage) passing from the charger to the batteries. Once the meter reads below 3 Amps, the batteries should have enough charge to turn the engine. The alternator should be able to top off the batteries from there.

After starting the engine, the Volt meter (on dash) should read >14V. If not, there is an issue with the meter and/or alternator.
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Old 08-08-2016, 11:24 AM   #320
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Gotcha...my charger is not old school, it's about three years old and I got it to tender my waverunner battery in the winter. But, I'll check the no-load voltage and go from there. These are new batteries though, so it would surprise me if they're undercharged.
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