Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 08-24-2016, 07:27 PM   #341
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: shreveport, la
Posts: 100
Man Home Depot has this purple concentrated industrial cleaner over in the cleaning supplies..... let me tell you......... if you spray it straight without diluting it, it will strip paint. It's like $10 for a gallon and works so good I can't believe it legal. Haha

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
jbohall001 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2016, 12:50 PM   #342
Skoolie
 
Jman6631's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 189
With the DMV inspection complete I now have my title and applied for my tags. With the temporaries taped front and back and being street legal I took it immediately to the local Freightliner shop to have the brakes looked at. The light has been on and there was a loose component at the rear left wheel set that was hanging loose. Being a major safety system I thought it best to let the pros work on it. I will get her back this week and I'll start on the roof raise.

While all that was going on I finished up the ash galley countertop. I dragged the log out of the woods myself, milled it, assembled it, finished it and attached all of the components. Now I'll put it in storage for when I need to install it (gonna be a while). Here are some progress pics:

Milled, assembled and gorilla glued:



The underside showing the 3/4" plywood strips gorilla glued in plus the 3" angled screws pulling the pieces together:



The topside after gluing showing the intentional unevenness and cracks. I distressed the surface and antiqued it with the 'ol vinegar/steelwool mix. I left the chainsawed edge on the side that will be exposed, an affect I repeated on the sink cutout:



A detail of the live edge with bark still attached, and you can see some of the distressing I did with fake wormholes and scratches:



Finished with a dozen or so coats of polycrylic...love the low VOC and the finish is sooper hard:



Undercounter sink cutout:



Sink attached with faucet and soap dispensing accessories attached:



All in all a decent turnout with the countertop. That ash is damn hard stuff to work with. The sink cutout matching the sink footprint was a challenge for sure. Hopefully you can see how the opening is distressed like the edge.
Jman6631 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2016, 01:42 PM   #343
Bus Nut
 
Docsgsxr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Arizona via Baton Rouge
Posts: 640
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freight-shaker (Freightliner)
Engine: Cat 3126b 250 HP
Rated Cap: Only 1 seat
That counter top looks incredible! Extremely rustic, and very hardy!

Great work man!!

-Doc

Sent from my SM-N915V using Tapatalk
__________________
My build thread - viewtopic.php?f=9&t=467197
Docsgsxr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2016, 06:26 PM   #344
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Calgary
Posts: 52
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Gorgeous counter!
-cycosis- is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2016, 10:08 PM   #345
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 5,059
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Damn fine work! Love the live edge!
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2016, 08:19 AM   #346
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,280
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jman6631 View Post
One thing I have to resolve is the radiator hose set up I put on the driver-side heater lines that ran to the rear heater that I removed. I installed the hoses with hose clamps and never did like the look of it going in. It does work "pretty" good but there is still a very slow leak so obviously it isn't working good enough.
It seems you may have the same heater set up as I do. At the bottom of the driver's side heater core, are there two copper tees? I did the same to my driver's side heater initially. I cut the rubber hose short and jammed a copper pipe cap in there (1/2" or 3/4", can't remember), then used a hose clamp on it. No leaks, but it stuck out more than I liked.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jman6631 View Post
Does anyone see any issue with using compression caps to seal off those supply and return lines? They connect inside the driver-side heater anyway so I see no reason that I can't just cap them off. There is the raised ring at the ends of the copper pipe that gave the hose clamps something to hold onto, but those can be removed easily with the dremel to allow the compression fittings to slide on (can't sweat any of this due to the proximity of the heater coils above). Would doing this create any unwanted pressure or cause any other issues that aren't obvious to me?
I ended up crushing the end of the tees flat with a vice grip after cleaning the inside walls with sand paper and applying flux. Soldered them up without a hitch (or a fire!). Everything has been operating just fine, since this heater set up doesn't require another loop back. The driver's side heater core and the rear heater core were installed in parallel in my case, instead of in series.
__________________
My build page: Armageddon - The Smell of Airborne Rust
jazty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2016, 08:26 AM   #347
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 4,182
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
you can sdefimitely cap any unwanted heaster lines without issue... what you DONT want to do is loop the supply and returns together or you will create low flow in the heaters you do want active..

-Christopher
cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2016, 08:37 AM   #348
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Springfield, VA
Posts: 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
you can sdefimitely cap any unwanted heaster lines without issue... what you DONT want to do is loop the supply and returns together or you will create low flow in the heaters you do want active..

-Christopher


I would think you would want to look the supply and return lines with a restriction on flow, like a valve or small diameter section of pipe.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Whiskeyjr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2016, 08:42 AM   #349
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,280
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Here's a discussion of this exact issue:
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/ti...tml#post127553

Post #20.
__________________
My build page: Armageddon - The Smell of Airborne Rust
jazty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2016, 08:58 AM   #350
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 4,182
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiskeyjr View Post
I would think you would want to look the supply and return lines with a restriction on flow, like a valve or small diameter section of pipe.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

if you cap them that creates the needed restriction and the pressure differential from supply to return will create flow in your heater cores.. if you loop them with justr a piece of hose thats where the issues come into play as far as flow..

the original OEM design is that theres enough resrtriction in the bends of the heater cores to still keep a pressure differential.. even considering the rear heater being looped..

I have electronic heater control valves on all of my heaters and on the main loops and have no flow issues in any of them.. OEM or my custom heaters..

I also run a heater boost pump.. (it was factory installed though was hooked up backwards when i got the bus)...

most of you guys wont need a boost pump or can take it out since you are removing all the heaters in the back of the bus... 90% of these busses have a single core for the driver side even though theres '3 heaters' in the box.. and a single core on the passenger side even though theres 2 or 3 in that box... RE busses excluded as you need the boost pump to keep the coolant flow moving up to the front of the bus


-Christopher
cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:23 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.