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Old 09-15-2016, 06:44 PM   #351
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Hey thanks to EVERYBODY, I appreciate the input on the heater core piping especially. I'm going to proceed with the compression cap fittings as I originally discussed and I'll tell you how that goes.

On another note, I dropped her off for the brake work and due to sticker shock ($1,100 for front and $1,100 for rear rotors and pads) have to delay the work until the Spring so that I can use the current budget for the roof raise. However, in doing so I got a little gift. While at the shop there was an "incident" whereby my rear door was banged up. Apparently a firetruck lost its parking brake and rolled enough into my bus to shatter the upper window, dent the door panel near the handle, and crack the lower window.

They were sooper apologetic and tried hard to make it right. After thinking about it I told them not to worry about it (knowing I would be removing the rear door and replacing the entire rear section with sheet metal anyway) and to instead waive the ~$300 diagnostic fee I was into them for and I'll be fine. They took about two seconds to agree so I'm making friends at the local shop now which is always a good thing. So, in the Spring I'll have them pull out the diagnostic paperwork and do all the brake work since it's just going to pretty much sit while I do the roof raise and build out anyway except for periodic runs up and down my street.

Speaking of the roof raise, I'm building my army to take that on once I get her back. Ala "Millicent Chronicles" (thanks again brother!) I have my four farm jacks and am fabricating the brackets, here are two of four:



Not pretty, I know, but they'll do the trick. The one thing I can't make out from his pics is the connection at the top of the riser piece where it connects to the bus framing. I've starred and starred at his pics and I can't tell if he made that out of angle or what, and if he welded it to the frames or what. Do any of your hosers know, or can you recommend something?

I'm leaning towards bolting an angle to the top of the riser so that it can adjust into place and then bolting that through the bus frame. I'd weld it (and maybe still as well) but don't trust my welding skills enough quite yet.

Thoughts?
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Old 09-15-2016, 10:57 PM   #352
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...and I've got some light reading to do...

Where did you get your manuals? We are on a mission to find them for our 2004 International T444
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Old 09-15-2016, 10:59 PM   #353
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Found them on eBay
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Old 09-16-2016, 10:19 AM   #354
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Here's a discussion of this exact issue:
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/ti...tml#post127553

Post #20.
THANKS Jazty, this was helpful. I think I ran across this once and that stuck the idea in my head that looping isn't best, but I wasn't exactly sure about how best to to cap them off. I have a set of compression fittings ready to go but flattening the ends and soldering them shut sounds even better because I don't like the idea of the fittings coming loose. But, I suppose the solder could break free too, so...
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Old 09-16-2016, 10:24 AM   #355
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Chassis: B3800 Short bus
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I'm sure either way would work, but my assumption is that a soldered joint (if done correctly) will be a permanent, leak free solution. The big problem is that you'll need to drain the coolant to be able to sufficiently clean, buff and flux the copper before soldering. This wasn't a problem for me since I already had it drained, but it would be a pain otherwise. A fitting could be slipped over and tightened with a bit (or a lot ) of coolant spill. That's how I did mine the first time. Grab a towel!
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Old 09-16-2016, 10:47 AM   #356
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Right, and timing is "sometimes" a blessing. I intend to drain and flush the system anyway and am ready to do so once I get her back from the shop (today?), so here's my chance.
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Old 09-16-2016, 10:53 AM   #357
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when I drained mine down i used the boost pump to pump the heater loops down as much as possible but still had a lot of coolant inside the bus when I started to loosen the lines so I took a shop vac on reverse that blows out and blew air into one of the heater lines under the hood and pushed alot of the coolant out so i had minimal spill inside the bus when I disconnected everything.. still had some but nothing a towel couldnt sop up.

then I turned the boost pump on and had the valves open while I poured in the coolant so the heater loops wouldnt air-lock. (I installed electronic heater valves when i had it all apart so i could control the loop flow from inside the bus.

-Christopher
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Old 09-16-2016, 03:45 PM   #358
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
when I drained mine down i used the boost pump to pump the heater loops down as much as possible but still had a lot of coolant inside the bus when I started to loosen the lines so I took a shop vac on reverse that blows out and blew air into one of the heater lines under the hood and pushed alot of the coolant out so i had minimal spill inside the bus when I disconnected everything.. still had some but nothing a towel couldnt sop up.

then I turned the boost pump on and had the valves open while I poured in the coolant so the heater loops wouldnt air-lock. (I installed electronic heater valves when i had it all apart so i could control the loop flow from inside the bus.

-Christopher
Very interesting cadillackid, I don't think I have a boost pump but I am concerned about getting all of the coolant out when I do the flush this weekend. Would there be an advantage to shop "blowing" it out at the driver heater connections after the initial drain to make sure I get as much out as possible before I do the flush? Would that be a waste of time?
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Old 09-16-2016, 03:51 PM   #359
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Plates came in! Not terribly interesting or impactful to the project but I got 'em...HBOHTL = Hobo Hotel (you will see this later, this will be on the test)...



I don't need an emission inspection in Virginia with the diesel but I do need the safety inspection of course. What kind of shop normally provides that kind of service? Forgive the rookie question but this too is new to me.
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Old 09-17-2016, 12:57 PM   #360
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Ok guys, I have a couple of non-related questions:

1. While picking her up last night I asked the shop foreman about the lack of highway speed and what he would recommend. I "assumed" (there's that word again) that I'd need to replace the pumpkin for $$$ but he said I should look into removing/bypassing the Cummins governor.

I hadn't considered that yet, what think you think? How much of an impact would that have and what are the negative ramifications, if any, in doing so? I also don't know if the governor is on the engine or the tranny. Would its location affect the decision to bypass it?


2. I've read multiple threads on roof raises and am not 100% decided on how I'm going to structurally repair the vertical portion of the ribs. Some add overlapping hat channel, others tube steel, some maybe both. Is there a superior method?

I don't think I need the dual flanging on the outside face in order to attach the NEW exterior sheet metal. If I insert tube steel inside the channel 1' above and below the cuts and plug weld the crap out of it I thought that would be enough. But, I'm prone to overdoing it so maybe add a U channel (vs hat channel) and plug weld that to the added tube steel the full length on all three sides including the overlap with the existing ribs?

Thoughts?
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