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Old 01-21-2016, 10:13 PM   #41
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Thanks, yeah the driver side heater is immediately inside this housing, probably 2" inside. I could go that far upstream but that's about it. That's what I'd prefer to do only that I can't figure out how to do the work I need to do in space that tight with the hardware I have to use (hose clamps) or to sweat copper. Short of removing the lower heater housing completely I see no way to access it. So I'm as upstream as I can get...bummer...
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Old 01-22-2016, 11:25 AM   #42
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Hi, commercial plumber/pipefitter by trade I have actually succesfully sweated small copper 1/2&3/4 in extremely tight place with a heat gun it was more of a commercial electrician style which gets hotter than a paint stripper style but the 3/4 took two guns to get up to soldering temp. And as soon as you drop the second gun hit the backside with the solder first while the joint is the hottest then one gun will take care of the rest not as quick as a torch but I didn't burn anything else up or start fires and got the job done a couple of these chances were on aluminum finned coils that a torch would just completely eat the fins for lunch.
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Old 01-22-2016, 12:37 PM   #43
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Thanks Jolly Roger! I'll keep that in mind when it comes to starting the build-out next Spring/Summer. If it looks like my harry homeowner fix should be upgraded to copper then I'll take it on then.

Thanks again!
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Old 01-23-2016, 12:03 PM   #44
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Nothing useful to add, just a comment about this place saving me from self inflicted mistakes. I'm in the planning stage but the tip here about being careful about glass and grinder debris - priceless! Wouldn't have thought to cover windows with more than plastic but for this thread. Thanks for the info.

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Old 01-23-2016, 09:18 PM   #45
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For sure armlann, I was in my bus just the other day for the 20 minute run every two weeks and the sun was shining brightly through the windshield. I was really disappointed in the pitting and how obvious it was, and how likely it would impair vision while driving. It's a concern for sure.

As you point out, there is a TON of value on this forum. If I'd just read a "little bit" more I'd have avoided it.

Speaking of which, have you read the Millicent Chronicles and also nat_ster's build? HIGHLY recommend you do...here's Millicent's link:

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/th...gate-1564.html
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:24 PM   #46
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Hey sdwarf36, do you mean terminate close to the engine and take the driver's heater out?
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:58 PM   #47
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I misread where you were-thought this was at you rear heater.
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Old 01-24-2016, 04:58 PM   #48
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I gotcha, this is after I removed the rear passenger heater and terminated it at the heater box to the lower left right next to the driver. The copper stubs at that driver's heater coming down to receive the coolant piping are just inside the box and "just" out of reach.

In the long run I'd really rather not go with the tubing and elbow rig I installed. What about compression fittings instead?
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Old 01-24-2016, 05:04 PM   #49
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I'd rather rubber hose myself.Good flexability + a known working system. If you find a formed piece of hose it would be 2 connections less.
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Old 01-24-2016, 05:31 PM   #50
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Agreed and I did look for a formed hose but didn't find one at the retail level, yet. Then with the storm coming I just used what I had on hand, blahblahblah.....
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