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Old 02-14-2015, 01:32 AM   #71
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Here's a goal photo for you.




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Quick update.....
Today I was able to look at the frame section that spans between the windows.....Thanks aaronsb for the heads up.....there will definitely be no good reason for them to stay, they are coming out. It'll make insulating it so much easier also!
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Old 02-14-2015, 04:24 AM   #72
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Funny i get 16ga galvanneal cheaper than plain old hot rolled.
I'm getting a bit jealous of you guys and gals with CLEAN ceilings. Mine have a ton of surface rust trapped under the thick layer of TAR that they slathered on the entire underside of the roof.
Takes about an hour to clean the tar off one little squared section.
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Old 02-15-2015, 01:46 AM   #73
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Here's a goal photo for you.

Thanks for the inspiration!!
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Old 02-15-2015, 01:49 AM   #74
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Funny i get 16ga galvanneal cheaper than plain old hot rolled.
I'm getting a bit jealous of you guys and gals with CLEAN ceilings. Mine have a ton of surface rust trapped under the thick layer of TAR that they slathered on the entire underside of the roof.
Takes about an hour to clean the tar off one little squared section.
I have a very thin layer of tar on my ceiling also, no rust though, so I'm just going to leave it there.
What are you going to treat the rust with after removing the tar?
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Old 02-15-2015, 02:10 AM   #75
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A short video of more progress.
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Old 02-15-2015, 05:06 AM   #76
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I have a very thin layer of tar on my ceiling also, no rust though, so I'm just going to leave it there.
What are you going to treat the rust with after removing the tar?
First Ospho, then Rusty Metal Primer by Rustoleum, them a quick topcoat of some flat black. I'm thinking about using some extra Rhino Lining too.
Lots of my tar looked ok and once peeled back it hid a TON of rust.
Not sayin yours is, but maybe look behind some if you havent already.
I think the tar in mine is trapping the natural condensation that happens inside the steel shell. It all started on my bus from a few missing rivets and all four corners of both emergency hatches were really shot and leaking profusely.
For how leaky my bus was, the rust isn't too bad but is way more than I'd have ever thought.
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Old 02-15-2015, 11:06 AM   #77
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I had a lot of the "tar" on my '46 that was a royal pain (someone told me technically it was "asphaltum"?) but my metal was pretty clean underneath. After battling even tiny amounts, I tried a large wire wheel on my 7" angle grinder. It took it down pretty quickly but left a film. That can be dissolved/picked up using an old towel soaked in paint prep. I had been using Dupli-Color Ps100 Prep Grease and Wax Remover to clean up all my metal for painting and discovered it did a great job on the nasty tar as well. You can get it in spray cans but it's much cheaper as a liquid. Handy stuff to have around.
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Old 02-15-2015, 02:03 PM   #78
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As rusty as my bus was, the ceiling was rust free.

Both my buses had the tar on the inner skin sheets. I think it's used to glue the fiberglass insulation in place.

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Old 02-15-2015, 07:24 PM   #79
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I had a lot of the "tar" on my '46 that was a royal pain (someone told me technically it was "asphaltum"?) but my metal was pretty clean underneath. After battling even tiny amounts, I tried a large wire wheel on my 7" angle grinder. It took it down pretty quickly but left a film. That can be dissolved/picked up using an old towel soaked in paint prep. I had been using Dupli-Color Ps100 Prep Grease and Wax Remover to clean up all my metal for painting and discovered it did a great job on the nasty tar as well. You can get it in spray cans but it's much cheaper as a liquid. Handy stuff to have around.
Ok I'm missing something, I have tar on my roof also, from what I can tell I have no rust & I wasn't planning on removing the tar, why are you removing all the tar???
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Old 02-15-2015, 07:45 PM   #80
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First Ospho, then Rusty Metal Primer by Rustoleum, them a quick topcoat of some flat black. I'm thinking about using some extra Rhino Lining too.
Lots of my tar looked ok and once peeled back it hid a TON of rust.
Not sayin yours is, but maybe look behind some if you havent already.
I think the tar in mine is trapping the natural condensation that happens inside the steel shell. It all started on my bus from a few missing rivets and all four corners of both emergency hatches were really shot and leaking profusely.
For how leaky my bus was, the rust isn't too bad but is way more than I'd have ever thought.
Strange you have rust under all the "tar". You'd think it would have been a good moisture barrier. Maybe when it was sprayed on at the factory it was a very humid day and trapped the moisture in. I checked a few areas on mine and it's rust free underneath. It definitely looks like it was used to hold insulation in place.
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