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Old 05-08-2015, 02:38 PM   #11
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ocala, FL
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Year: 1995
Coachwork: Bookmobile body by Farber
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Navistar DT466/Alison MT643
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Welcome!

I agree the first thing to do is strip the interior down to bare metal to check the condition of the "bones." Then start to think about building it back up.

If you have any desire to model your interior virtually using computer software, check out my thread on SketchUp for tips on using that free app.

And as with every construction project: "Measure twice. Cut once."
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Old 05-08-2015, 11:44 PM   #12
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Ha ha!! I tried to create a model on SketchUp, but reverted instead to a paper model to scale. I just posted pics of my Yellow Girl in the pictures area. Now that it's road legal, now it's time to tear down the interior. Whoof, the thought of it makes me tired, but I can't wait to see my bus come together! I'm also enjoying looking at all the projects on here - what a wealth of information. Anyone happen to be in Eugene, Oregon, or thereabouts? I'd love to meet other skoolie people.
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Old 06-10-2015, 08:02 PM   #13
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I'm getting ready to get in an drip everything out. The phillips screws won't be an issue, but how to I get rid of these:
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Old 06-10-2015, 08:03 PM   #14
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OK, let's try that again: https://www.flickr.com/photos/236608.../shares/QUU7He
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Old 06-10-2015, 08:04 PM   #15
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OK, the link works (for me) - don't know how to upload a photo plain in the comment box - sorry. :-/
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Old 06-10-2015, 08:04 PM   #16
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Location: Russell, Kansas
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Year: 1989
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Chassis: Saf-T-Liner ER
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Either an air chisel or a metal grinder will get the job done.
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Old 06-10-2015, 08:28 PM   #17
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It depends on whether it's acceptable to damage the sheet metal in the process!

If you want to shear the heads off the blind rivets, first use a pin punch to drive the center mandrel out the back side. The rivet will shear easier with the mandrel removed. Use a chisel and big hammer, or air chisel, to peel the head off. I found that my air chisel worked much better after re-grinding it to have a single taper (like a wood chisel).

As M1031A1 suggests, a grinder is good to remove the head. It can also be drilled off. Removal of the mandrel first can speed these operations a bit too.

If you can find a plasma cutter for a few hours, it'll burn off rivet heads nice and quick.
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Old 06-10-2015, 09:05 PM   #18
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,241
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
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Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
at bottom left of page hit

A REPLY TO THREAD page opens....
above the MESSAGE: box is a
click the paperclip

a new box pops up with the BROWSE feature

BROWSE for your image on your computer.

Click UPLOAD, after it's uploaded...

close that box, and hit replay on REPLY TO THREAD BOX.

DONE

I think the "quick reply" feature messes up a lot of people, but the message above is pretty much the same for all VBB Bulletin boards.
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Old 06-10-2015, 09:52 PM   #19
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Thanks everyone.
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Old 06-11-2015, 06:45 PM   #20
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Also ive found if you use a drill bit thats the width of the bolt/screw and drill it until it goes through the head and it should pop right off without too much damage.
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