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Old 10-28-2015, 01:22 PM   #21
Mini-Skoolie
 
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We made a trip into Superior to pick up our metal. The manager thought he had our full order of 6 18 gauge galvanized 4x10 panels but only had 3 full ones. So I'll have to make another trip for that... But I did grab these three pallets in good condition they had leaned up outside. The trailer is only 8ft long so there are 2x4s under the sheets supporting the extra length.


Our 14 gauge galvanized hat channel. I got a little worried when the contractor called me before he got started saying he wasn't sure he could make all the bends in his break, but he managed it without too much problem I guess.


I bought this $18 chisel/punch holder but it broke after about 100 or so rivets (using it with a walmart cold chisel). I didn't want to buy a 12" chisel with hand guard because I wouldn't have any use for it after the raise. If they had added $2 to the retail price and made it with a longer threaded rod, it probably would have held. Oh well. Back to Menards it goes.


My fix worked just as well. You can see the back end of the walmart chisel mushroomed out. Probably about 1/4" down by the time I was done. After I reground the cutting edge with a real bevel, it actually held an edge pretty good.


For a couple more dog/fun pics check out our instagram. I don't want to repost extra pics here that won't be very relevant.

https://instagram.com/tinyhousebus/
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Old 10-28-2015, 01:23 PM   #22
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Ok, well that's about all caught up. I'll be posting maybe a few more pics this week and definitely let everyone know next week how our roof raise goes.
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Old 10-28-2015, 01:28 PM   #23
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty View Post
Welcome to skoolie.net! Your progress so far looks great.

Your driver's side heater looks the same as mine from what I can see. If you look close at the heater core connections, are they two tees? If so, you will want to plug the exit holes completely instead of running a loop. This will force all of the coolant through the heater core - producing more heat. This will be important in those Wisconsin winters!

My solution was to remove the heater core completely, squash the copper ends of the tees with a vice grip, then solder the squashed end up. Clean and strong. All coolant now flows through the heater core. No tubes hanging out the back of the heater.

^ I sound like a broken record with these comments, having posted this all over skoolie.net, but many people loop the lines. It's the right thing to do in most circumstances, but the wrong thing to do with many of these Thomas buses.

Here's an illustration. Does this look like your previous set up?


Cheers
Ah ha. That makes a lot of sense. I've got the bottom panel off of the driver's heater, but I haven't stuck my face down there yet. I will have to look today. I've got a brand new propane torch that's been itching to get out of its box. I'll have to stop at the corner store on the way and see if they have solder. Thanks!
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Old 10-28-2015, 05:14 PM   #24
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Don't forget the flux and emery cloth (or fine sand paper)!
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Old 10-28-2015, 08:37 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by jazty View Post
Don't forget the flux and emery cloth (or fine sand paper)!
Had to cut open the rear facing panel a little bit to get at it, but it's just as you said.


Our fasteners arrived today, though I'm still waiting to hear from the sheet metal contractor that they got the rest of my panels in.


I noticed a spot of water on the floor, looked up and it's coming from the emergency roof exit handles. Glad I'll be getting rid of those.
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Old 10-28-2015, 11:13 PM   #26
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Looking good man.

Looking forward to updates.

Nat
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Old 10-31-2015, 04:57 PM   #27
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im gonna be real jealous of your roof raise. looking nice. my dad had bought a masterforce hammer drill years ago and he claims its been through hell and back and still works great, so they must not be too shabby. are you gonna keep that original bus floor or are you ripping it up?
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Old 10-31-2015, 11:22 PM   #28
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Originally Posted by BurlKing View Post
im gonna be real jealous of your roof raise. looking nice. my dad had bought a masterforce hammer drill years ago and he claims its been through hell and back and still works great, so they must not be too shabby. are you gonna keep that original bus floor or are you ripping it up?
I've been pretty happy with my Masterforce kit so far. The flashlight that came with it is crap, but when are free/kit flashlights ever worth it? I might try and put a LED bulb in there. The radio also crapped out on me for awhile, but I think it just got overheated in the sun as it works now, but everything came with a 3 year warranty so I'm not worried.
We'll be stripping the floor down to metal and the plan is (at least right now) to patch the holes with window flashing tape. I see you welded yours. I also see you used phosphoric acid for your rust converter, we've been using Krud Kutter phosphoric acid. I'm hoping to just convert all the floor rust and not paint it. Even if I wanted to paint it, it's getting pretty late in the season to be painting in the shade. After that will be 3in of 25psi extruded foam and a floating laminate floor (glued near water sources).

Day lights savings time is upon us... Does anyone happen to have suggestions for a rechargeable/battery work light? I wasn't happy with the offerings at Menards. Looked liked Amazon had a few decent ones.

We got the rest of our metal yesterday after stopping at Menards for a couple of last minute goodies and to rent our scaffolding. Today has been removing the final roof raise rivets and cleaning up. Tomorrow is raise day!

A wary note to any who are planning on renting scaffolding for a raise. Make sure you measure everything at the store. We rented 60"x60" (5'x5') scaffolding with base plates and scaffold jacks. Of course 5x5 scaffolding sounds like it would fit in a 6ft high (center) bus interior. BUT, the base plate/scaffold jack combo puts the scaffold up an additional 8.5" and the bolted/welded-on scaffold coupler at the top adds another ~3". We brought everything to the bus after dinner this evening to prep it for the morning and ran into this snag. Our neighbor has some 6ft scaffolding with jacks so I'm going to double check the scaffold jack diameter (which I checked before and deemed too big) to see if it would work. If not, we happened to buy 2 6-ton bottle jacks at Menards for $20/piece yesterday, so we'll raise the scaffolds with the bottle jacks until we can brace one side and put in the scaffold jacks for the rest of the 20" raise.

If all goes well I'll post the end result of the raise and pictures tomorrow evening. Monday - Wednesday is skinning day.
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Old 11-01-2015, 12:44 AM   #29
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Pick a brand. Anything that uses a li-ion battery is good.

Category - JCCayer.com

Masterforce is not in the list. No clue who makes it. Never heard of it till I read this thread.

Best brands from best to worst are Makita, Milwaukee, and Dewalt.

I would not even try any of the lesser brands.

I have this one. Great all around light. Good distance with side spill for close up work. 120 lumens



http://www.jccayer.com/Dewalt-DCL040...k-Light/p/2893

And this is my favorite. Same light pattern as the one above, but much more compact and virsaitle. Also 120 lumens.



http://www.jccayer.com/Dewalt-DCL510...rklight/p/4760


This one will have less distance and more light spread.



http://www.jccayer.com/Dewalt-DCL050...-Light/p/15554

And if you need large amounts of light. This one will run off the battery's or AC wall power. 1500 lumens



http://www.jccayer.com/Dewalt-DCL061...-Light/p/15220

300 lumens



http://www.jccayer.com/Milwaukee-235...-Light/p/16096

Area lantern. 600 lumens



http://www.jccayer.com/Milwaukee-236...hlight/p/16095

High end cordless LED work light with tripod. 2000 lumens



http://www.jccayer.com/Milwaukee-213...-Light/p/31737

If I was you, I would return all the Master force tools, and get a brand that will preform better. A 3 year warranty is no good if the tools preforms poorly for the full 3 years.

Pick a brand that has everything you need in the lineup.

Nat
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Old 11-01-2015, 07:31 AM   #30
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Masterforce is a Menards (Midwest big box hardware) brand. It's definitely lower than the top three but considered mid-range in the whole spectrum. I've used Milwaukee and Makita before as well as Porter Cable. I bought it because it was on sale for $350 compared to the $500-$600 (fewer tool) Makita kit I was considering. I understand the "buy good tool mentality" but funds/income are quite limited and if I have any issue with a tool I can just run into town and exchange it instead of shipping.
Thanks for the illumination suggestions, I like the idea of a stick light but that lantern caught my eye too. I asked the wife her thoughts on a kerosene lamp but she's worried of the potential fire hazard.
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