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Old 06-12-2016, 05:09 PM   #11
Bus Crazy
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 1,014
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: HDX
Engine: Cat C7
Rated Cap: 84 passenger
From what I can see, I've removed 4 clips inside and a bunch of putty between the frames. There is the possibility that I'll need to break the seal from the outside, too. I'm using a linoleum knife. I'll recover the vacant space with some 3/4 CDX once the box is inside.

Azuleslight, insulted the sides this last winter and the floor just prior to that. Even with a white roof, it is STILL TOO FREAKIN' HOT!
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Old 06-13-2016, 03:10 AM   #12
Bus Crazy
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
Originally Posted by somewhereinusa View Post
I can't say about a Thomas, a Bluebird has the windows basically held in with putty. There is one large screw on each side, the bottom sits in a channel. Steady pressure inward at the top was enough to get the putty to start releasing.
Ditto Amtran/IC, only with 2 screws per side
Hey! That's not an RV, that's a school bus.
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:12 AM   #13
Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 699
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International 1753
Engine: 6.9 International
Rated Cap: 65
Mine is the same way. Remove 4 screws and washers, lower the window, and pull in at the top.
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Old 06-13-2016, 12:28 PM   #14
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Miami
Posts: 171
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP
Engine: CAT 3116
Rated Cap: 84
On y thomas the windows are held in by two clips on each side and a bunch of putty/caulking/butyl tape/etc. Some windows came out easily others took a lot of work with the putty knife. On the stubborn windows I used a thicker blade putty knife/scrapper and worked in all around the frame, and then used a lot of force to free it. The trick is to pull the window frame into the bus from the top of the frame.
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Old 06-13-2016, 12:37 PM   #15
Bus Nut
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 490
Year: 92
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 5.9L
Rated Cap: 77
our '92 thomas there were two screws on each side of the window(access them when window is rolled down, one on top which is a pain to get to unless youve got a small drill. then all thats left is to take a blade shove it in the crack between the window and bus and go around the window to cut the glue. after that just push it out, real simple and takes a minute or two.
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Old 06-13-2016, 04:16 PM   #16
Bus Nut
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North carolina
Posts: 651
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford
Engine: Detroit 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
2-lb Sledge hammer or a booted foot and then as you demo and rebuild for your AC opening then you will see and know exactly how the rest are fastened? Mine has 4 screws in the top half of the window frame only visible if the window is down and nothing but caulking in the bottom and all around inside and out. And all of my Thomas body windows have to be removed from the inside.
Most of my existing caulking was dried up and flaked out/away and wasn't bad to remove but if I have to change a window now with the new caulking then I will need a hammer/boot.
Good luck CAPT.
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Old 06-13-2016, 06:03 PM   #17
Bus Nut
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 447
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Ward
Chassis: International
Engine: Navistar 5.9 Diesel
Rated Cap: A butt-load...
What about this for cooling? ;)

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Old 06-14-2016, 12:50 AM   #18
Almost There
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Greater Boston
Posts: 98
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
For what it's worth...I know a couple of local folks who tried using top of the line portable A/C's in fairly small spaces and wound up tossing them because they didn't cool worth a squat.
I've heard the exact same thing about those 2-duct units - and Massachusetts isn't exactly known to get "hot" either!
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Old 06-14-2016, 05:49 AM   #19
Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 9,119
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
I looked at my 2 duct unit and found out exactly the reason why it fails to cool to the specifications...

1. the 2 ducts are next to each other so a lot of recirculation of the exhausted air to the intake occurs.. when i separated the pipes I saw an addtional 2 degree drop across the evaporator. (more cooling)

2. the CFM of the fan for the condenser is just 2 low... I have 2 pipes that are 6 inches and the amount of air moved is just not nearly enough over the condenser to cool .. I took an old blower I had laying around and as an experiment connected it to the exhaust pipe and turned it on... Yes indeed ot lowered the consenser air temps by 6 degrees.. which allowed the compressor to ramp to a higher speed.. and resulted in an additional 3 degree drop across the evaporator...

so with 2 simple steps i had increased the capacity of this little unit quite a bit...

my little unit is a climax inverter type so it has the ability to ramp its compressor up and down...

Next hot day my experiment will be with some pull down window sunscreening to see iftinting my windows or installing mild sunshades might help out.. it seemed like on a cloudier day the unit cooled very well... makes sense in a greenhouse on wheels that the sun would be the culprit
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:31 AM   #20
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 200
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner HDX
Engine: CAT 3126B250
Rated Cap: 84
Squid, what Burl King said:

Look for a screw or 2 in the window tracks. #2 phillips.
My project: The Cruel Bus
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