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Old 08-24-2017, 01:26 PM   #1
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Cool Vintage Blue Bird.. Building the Swag Pad

Well I'm psyched! I Just bought my first home, and drove her to my parents house where I currently reside.. So backstory, I'm 22, used to be a light duty mechanic, have a couple car projects, and several motorcycle projects... But something was missing from my life... A Bus!! As a huge fan of the Tiny house movement, I've explored all options, and think a bus is a fantastic option, specifically coach types.. So I went looking, and found this gem... Its a 1972 Blue Bird Pusher, probably close to 40 feet long, has a Big Block Chevy... And best part... its has a professionally done conversion finished!! Now this conversion was done in the 80's the style will tell you that but, the bones are great, no mold, not musty smell, and no mouses... Yay! I bough the bus for only $5k, and drove it home with no issues besides a gunky carburetor... I plan to throw some money at it to make it into a old school swanky bachelor pad I've always wanted... Follow me as I start a build thread...
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Old 08-24-2017, 01:52 PM   #2
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Cool

Lets Talk General Ideas/Plans...

1. Replace the moisture wicking dumb MDF Walls
2. Possibly Re-wire 110V for my own sanity, add outlets
3. Replace the Carpet with some nice fake Wood
4. Remove Dinette for something more space saving
5. Remove Propane tank, and Propane Appliances, Replace with electric
6. Replace Toilet with Composting Toilet
7. Get a rid of Twin beds, Get queen mattress or something
8. Paint all cabinets, new knobs too
9. Granite/Quartz Counter Top, with sunken sink, flush inductive stove top
10. Try and fit a 55" TV somewhere, possibly in wall speakers too
11. Stripper Pole would be pretty sweet... Would get use by my girlfriend lol
12. This is going to be vintage, classy, and sexy lol Leather, plush, leopard print etc... Its the Swag Pad for a reason!! (Also looking for name suggestions lol)
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Old 08-24-2017, 01:53 PM   #3
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Steel Panther!!
That's my suggestion.
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Old 08-24-2017, 02:31 PM   #4
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I would say to keep the propane. It is easier to fill a propane tank than find an adequate shore power hookup

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Old 08-24-2017, 03:08 PM   #5
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Is that a wanderlodge? Blue bird made rv/busses from the factory that look a lot like that!

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Old 08-24-2017, 04:34 PM   #6
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I suggest also removing the mudflap under the rear bumper. You will get better engine cooling without it - it's now preventing airflow through the engine room and out the bottom. What would help is to reposition it just behind the rear axle to create a low-pressure area below the engine (just like the GM PD410x buses used to have), then it will help airflow there.

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Old 08-28-2017, 08:32 AM   #7
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I totally get that it makes sense for RV'ing but I plan to live in this full time as a house, So only dealing with electrical and water makes sense to me, instead of worrying about re-fueling the tank and up-rooting my house from wherever it resides lol Plus, I might be able to do full solar eventually, which would be great for being completely off the grid
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Old 08-28-2017, 08:33 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceni John View Post
I suggest also removing the mudflap under the rear bumper. You will get better engine cooling without it - it's now preventing airflow through the engine room and out the bottom. What would help is to reposition it just behind the rear axle to create a low-pressure area below the engine (just like the GM PD410x buses used to have), then it will help airflow there.

John
Interesting, I would think it would act as an Air-dam and force the air from under the bus up. Thanks though!
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Old 08-28-2017, 08:35 AM   #9
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Is that a wanderlodge? Blue bird made rv/busses from the factory that look a lot like that!

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Very close actually, but Wanderlodges are a little different. Have Center Doors, and Front engines, this is a conversion. Just a nice one!
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Old 08-28-2017, 03:10 PM   #10
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So I've been doing alot or research on wall material... And basically more un-sure than ever.. Right now every wall is made out of 1/4" MDF... Most is fine but there is some spots that absorbed water by the windows.. I want to replace ALL of it. Not a fan or the cardboard look... What should I use? I want it to stay thin and flexible, and be cool looking... Preferably stain or paint-able.. I was thinking Luann but it looks weird painted... Maybe tongue and groove? I don't exactly like the look though.. Wallpaper would suck but might look the best... So ideas?
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Old 08-28-2017, 03:14 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by IanT720 View Post
So I've been doing alot or research on wall material... And basically more un-sure than ever.. Right now every wall is made out of 1/4" MDF... Most is fine but there is some spots that absorbed water by the windows.. I want to replace ALL of it. Not a fan or the cardboard look... What should I use? I want it to stay thin and flexible, and be cool looking... Preferably stain or paint-able.. I was thinking Luann but it looks weird painted... Maybe tongue and groove? I don't exactly like the look though.. Wallpaper would suck but might look the best... So ideas?
If you have water damage, plan on complete tear-out in that area. Figure where water is getting in before spending $$

FRP is durable, light, can be painted. Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic. at Lowes, etc. They also have nice wood paneling but nicer than your mom's basement.
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Old 08-28-2017, 03:44 PM   #12
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If you have water damage, plan on complete tear-out in that area. Figure where water is getting in before spending $$

FRP is durable, light, can be painted. Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic. at Lowes, etc. They also have nice wood paneling but nicer than your mom's basement.
I really just think its from water that condensed on the window and dripped down, MDF is a water sponge... I will check it out though. Okay! Will look into that... Do you think it would reflect sound a lot more than wood?
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Old 08-28-2017, 04:47 PM   #13
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1/4 inch finish plywood? Cut into strips and paneled. It can be painted or stained.
Corrugated tin? Looks pretty cool and you can cover it with fabric in places you want it softer.
Wainscoting... Paint it and be done.
Regular plywood with burlap/fabric over it.. glued or upholstered.


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Old 09-05-2017, 08:42 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
If you have water damage, plan on complete tear-out in that area. Figure where water is getting in before spending $$

FRP is durable, light, can be painted. Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic. at Lowes, etc. They also have nice wood paneling but nicer than your mom's basement.
I'm digging the FRP.. It is thin though... I was thinking could back it with a rigid foam? add strength, and insulation... thoughts?
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Old 09-05-2017, 09:42 AM   #15
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1/8" FRP is quite rigid compared to the 1/8" Celtec expanded-PVC board that I'm using for my walls. The Celtec definitely needs a rigid backing behind it - I'm using 3/8" plywood, with some polyiso foam board behind that wherever I have space for it. Celtec is light weight, flexible (important for my non-straight walls), will not absorb moisture or rot, comes in colors so you don't need to paint it, and has a slight insulating value because it's a dense closed-cell foam. I'm using the pale gray on the walls. and I think I'll use the plain white on the ceiling, probably with a thin layer of something insulating behind it, maybe 1/4" cork sheet.

I will use FRP for the shower, smooth (less rough) side facing out, backed against 1/2" plywood for complete rigidity, then faced with 12"-square self-adhesive vinyl floor tiles for a luxury appearance. How about a faux-marble or faux-granite look? Easy!

John
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Old 09-05-2017, 02:12 PM   #16
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I too would suggest you keep the propane. It is a relatively cheap fuel and if all you use if for is for cooking it will last a long time between fillups.

I would also suggest you do a power inventory before you start going all electric. Unless you live in the land of perpetual sun solar is not going to work well long term. Today at my house is a hot summer day but we are covered with a haze of smoke from fires in the area. I have a solar powered flower that hops back and forth when the sun hits it. Even though it is in full sun light the haze has cut back enough of the sun's power that the flower is barely moving. This time yesterday without any haze it was practically jumping off of the window sill.

I would also suggest you keep with the black tank and toilet you have. It works. Yes you will have to figure out a way to dump the tank occasionally but then taking the bus out to exercise it occasionally is good for all of the running gear and it will extend the life of your tires by many miles. You will need to have a way to dump your grey water. Whether it is with a blue tote or driving to a dump station it will still need to be disposed of properly. It is no harder to dump two tanks than one. If you are hooked up to a sewer line for the grey tank the black tank can drain through the same hose.

Swapping the rear twins to a full/queen/king bed will work only if there isn't stuff built in under the twin beds. Sometimes things like hot water heaters, wheel wells, furnaces, and other permanent non-movable fixtures dictated the twin beds.

Granite/quartz for counter tops looks great. But it is not light. If you ever intend to ever go some place with your bus the extra weight will cost you in extra fuel and speed on every hill.

In regards to your power package, ethanol blended gas plays havoc on fuel systems. It is especially hard on older rigs that don't have the soft parts designed to withstand the corrosiveness of ethanol. If you haven't you will be needing to drop the fuel tank and have it cleaned out. You will also need to replace all of the soft fuel line and probably a lot of the steel lines between the tank and the carb. The fuel pump will most likely be toast. And the carb will most likely leak out of every joint and fitting. When it comes time to rebuild the carb it would be a good time to consider upgrading to EFI or TBI. Fuel injection will improve drivability immensely and might even result in better gradability and fuel economy. Upgrading to an electronic ignition at the same time would help as well. Just be aware that a big block gas V-8 in a full size bus is going to be short on power on the hills and really short on fuel mileage. 3-5 MPG will be the norm, at the best. Back in the day some of the full size RE buses with big block gas engines with automatics were getting 1-2 MPG.
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Old 09-05-2017, 02:30 PM   #17
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Granite or quartz average 18lbs a square foot. Make sure your cabinets are plywood construction and that your floor is solid. Good luck with your remodel!
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Old 09-05-2017, 02:43 PM   #18
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Granite or quartz average 18lbs a square foot. Make sure your cabinets are plywood construction and that your floor is solid. Good luck with your remodel!
That is surprising. I knew it was heavy, just never put a number on it. I think you can use granite, but very sparingly. I want to have the small counter when you enter my bus granite as I have a piece that would work nice- few feet worth. Gives you wow factor when you walk-in, nice kitchen surface.

Bathroom can have some splashes granite by the sink- eye level, but to cover the floors and walls with stone would be heavy.
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Old 09-05-2017, 02:45 PM   #19
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I was seriously considering hammered copper countertops. Pretty lightweight, and I like the look of them. And a cheap 99.00 vanity from the homedespot

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Old 09-05-2017, 03:00 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach View Post
I too would suggest you keep the propane. It is a relatively cheap fuel and if all you use if for is for cooking it will last a long time between fillups.

I would also suggest you do a power inventory before you start going all electric. Unless you live in the land of perpetual sun solar is not going to work well long term. Today at my house is a hot summer day but we are covered with a haze of smoke from fires in the area. I have a solar powered flower that hops back and forth when the sun hits it. Even though it is in full sun light the haze has cut back enough of the sun's power that the flower is barely moving. This time yesterday without any haze it was practically jumping off of the window sill.

I would also suggest you keep with the black tank and toilet you have. It works. Yes you will have to figure out a way to dump the tank occasionally but then taking the bus out to exercise it occasionally is good for all of the running gear and it will extend the life of your tires by many miles. You will need to have a way to dump your grey water. Whether it is with a blue tote or driving to a dump station it will still need to be disposed of properly. It is no harder to dump two tanks than one. If you are hooked up to a sewer line for the grey tank the black tank can drain through the same hose.

Swapping the rear twins to a full/queen/king bed will work only if there isn't stuff built in under the twin beds. Sometimes things like hot water heaters, wheel wells, furnaces, and other permanent non-movable fixtures dictated the twin beds.

Granite/quartz for counter tops looks great. But it is not light. If you ever intend to ever go some place with your bus the extra weight will cost you in extra fuel and speed on every hill.

In regards to your power package, ethanol blended gas plays havoc on fuel systems. It is especially hard on older rigs that don't have the soft parts designed to withstand the corrosiveness of ethanol. If you haven't you will be needing to drop the fuel tank and have it cleaned out. You will also need to replace all of the soft fuel line and probably a lot of the steel lines between the tank and the carb. The fuel pump will most likely be toast. And the carb will most likely leak out of every joint and fitting. When it comes time to rebuild the carb it would be a good time to consider upgrading to EFI or TBI. Fuel injection will improve drivability immensely and might even result in better gradability and fuel economy. Upgrading to an electronic ignition at the same time would help as well. Just be aware that a big block gas V-8 in a full size bus is going to be short on power on the hills and really short on fuel mileage. 3-5 MPG will be the norm, at the best. Back in the day some of the full size RE buses with big block gas engines with automatics were getting 1-2 MPG.
Thank you for the insight!! So ideally I want to park this rig at a location for fulltime living say my buddies farm... I really do not want to drive up to the truck stop to fill up on propane or empty my tanks... I do understand your points though.. This is more Tiny House than RV.. The propane tank is probably 100lbs, I'm sure its not up to code anyways.. That's why just worrying about having good shore power seems easier to me.. I could be wrong about that.. There is stuff under the beds for sure... I was thinking about just adding a 3rd twin mattress to the middle to make it like a queen, plus I could move it, to access the boxes.. I think my counter top is small enough to not worry about the extra weight, but I will look into re-enforcing it.. Yep, I was planning on all that fun fuel system stuff.. I used to be a mechanic, so I'm sure I will figure it out.. Damn do you think the MPG is that terrible? All the more reason not to move it much lol Right now the carb looks pretty clean, I was planning on rebuilding it... But those $700 EFI kits look pretty sweet...
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