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Old 05-21-2016, 10:36 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by scootie View Post
Do you tow your bugs dingy style behind the bus?
I've been doing some light research on finding a cheap tow car to have behind us on long trips, and the Bug just dawned on me! Like, light blub above the head!

I was looking at the smart cars, because prices on those have dropped like crazy. there are several in my town for sale for 4k ish.

But, the vintage Bug! what an idea
They tow pretty well.
The Smart cars are a nightmare. I tried to like them but they just aren't very good. A used Geo Metro is a better car and gets better mpg's. Early 90's economy cars are the best, imo.
I once scored a new looking 79 rabbit euro base model from a Canadian couple that towed it behind their rv. That was an amazing little car. Mpg's in the 50's all day with the little 1.5 diesel and a four speed.
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Old 05-21-2016, 10:52 AM   #22
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Join Date: Aug 2015
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
They tow pretty well.
The Smart cars are a nightmare. I tried to like them but they just aren't very good. A used Geo Metro is a better car and gets better mpg's. Early 90's economy cars are the best, imo.
I once scored a new looking 79 rabbit euro base model from a Canadian couple that towed it behind their rv. That was an amazing little car. Mpg's in the 50's all day with the little 1.5 diesel and a four speed.
WOW! that rabbit sounds awesome! got any pictures of that beauty?
I'm trying to like the smart cars now. I would totally go for geo metro too!
those were terrible/awesome
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:12 AM   #23
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floors welded up. each and every hole.



then ground flush and on goes the rust inhibitor/sealer



this go around, I did not paint the wheel wells,knowing I would box them in later, but went back and sealed them too.

you can see above that I removed the Hcap lift, and that was pretty straight forward. I also welded up the holes for the through bolts on the outside of the bus at this point.

here is a shot of the bus from underneath after all the welding.
I wire brushed the welds from the bottom and sprayed rubberized under coat just were the welds are, and will be going back to do the whole underside before installing grey water tanks, propane.
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:16 AM   #24
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thats the underneath shot.

thats the shape of the whole underside. almost no rust.
PS: I bought this bus from a school fleet mechanic who jumped on it when it went out of service, He was really excited the lack of rust.
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:19 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
They tow pretty well.
The Smart cars are a nightmare. I tried to like them but they just aren't very good. A used Geo Metro is a better car and gets better mpg's. Early 90's economy cars are the best, imo.
I once scored a new looking 79 rabbit euro base model from a Canadian couple that towed it behind their rv. That was an amazing little car. Mpg's in the 50's all day with the little 1.5 diesel and a four speed.

rabbit diesels were the TOPS! I had a close sister to it in a pegueot 505. that Bosch system was so easy to work on!!

-Christopher
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:28 AM   #26
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I've got a pic or two of the Rabbit somewhere, but they're from the mid 90's.
This model and color-
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:34 AM   #27
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once sealed up well, I put down sub floors, exterior 5/8 ply was more expensive than I budgeted for, lots of heavy duty construction adhesive. and the addition of finding the right screws for attaching.

let me pause there,
I never realized how many types of construction adhesive there are until this point. prices vary like caulk, from 2.50 a tube, to about 4.50 a tube. and seeing how you will used several cases of the stuff throughout the build, I recommend you make a line item in your budget just for this. I went with the exterior heavy duty stuff, like I said, it's 4.50 a tube and typically thicker, sticker, and more of a pain in the ass to use. however, for my climate, It's best for me. really hot and humid in the summer, and down right cold in the winter.



screws:
I found that these are best.
Teks #10 1-7/16 in. Phillips Flat-Head Self-Drilling Screws (100-Pack)-21380 - The Home Depot

But I believe that if you special order from grainger, you may save a few bucks. I just kept picking up the above mentioned boxes of 100 every day and kept needing more and more. so I don't want to know how much $$ I spent on them in the end.
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Old 05-21-2016, 02:26 PM   #28
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Nice job on the floor.

I'm looking for a VW Caddy to pull behind the bus.
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Old 05-21-2016, 02:30 PM   #29
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oh, here is a photo of welds once ground down.. If you are wondering if it's worth the effort,...

If you look closely you can see the circle where there used to be a hole. That is why I chose to go this route. However, this photo is taken of one of the walls where the Hcap door is. I thought I was going to keep it, but I am not.

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Old 05-21-2016, 02:47 PM   #30
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sub floors at back door. knotched out to fit the door bumper.


before I put down flooring, I put a good bead of flex caulk along all edges, ect.

glue going down on subfloors... looking good if I do say so myself....



Typically in any home building situation, you would do floors dead last. But I opted to do it backwards and this is why,
1.if myself or anyone desires to remodel, floors will not need to be removed.
2. finish flooring under cabinets, under sinks, under storage areas ect.
water proofing from above. mud, ect.

3. I had enough material. It's just a better answer in my opinion.

Here is the floor going down.
4" x 36" aged and textured woodgrain VCT

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