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12-30-2016, 05:58 PM
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#21
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,707
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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the carpenter elerctrical wiring is a mess to say the least... I chunked a ton of stuff out of my electrical panel too.. made it nice for adding my own..
I really dont dig any of the carpenter Heaters at all.. i think they are all JUNK.. I rebuiolt my driver console with my own innards for heat and A/C.. my right side heater is a mess..
now having a bluebird I see how much more compact their right-side heater is..
sounds like you are getting your bus set up nicely and ready to go!! casnt wait to see the pix.
what did you do to your T-444E? standard stuff? ICP,IPR, updated FPR, new Tstat?
-Christopher
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12-31-2016, 04:00 AM
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#22
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,707
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Oops I missed the part about the computer
Interface , sure I can send it to you.
The software is free and called servicemaxx j1708. You can download it from navistar.
The device is a nexiq USB link 2 and the drivers are free on their site.
I can put the software installers on a USB drive and toss in the box .
Now is actually a great time since I'm in Florida and my bluebird is in Ohio, I won't need it for a couple weeks at least.
Christopher
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12-31-2016, 05:12 PM
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#23
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 487
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
Oops I missed the part about the computer
Interface , sure I can send it to you.
The software is free and called servicemaxx j1708. You can download it from navistar.
The device is a nexiq USB link 2 and the drivers are free on their site.
I can put the software installers on a USB drive and toss in the box .
Now is actually a great time since I'm in Florida and my bluebird is in Ohio, I won't need it for a couple weeks at least.
Christopher
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Yes!!! You are a life saver. Can I PM you my cell number and personal details so we can coordinate my leaving you a deposit for peace of mind?
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01-01-2017, 06:06 PM
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#24
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 487
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
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Just purchased 6 x 12v 100w solar panels and a 60 amp Morningstar MPPT charger. Posting pictures tonight..
__________________
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need ... roads.
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01-02-2017, 01:04 AM
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#25
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,446
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warewolff
Just purchased 6 x 12v 100w solar panels and a 60 amp Morningstar MPPT charger. Posting pictures tonight..
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Can't wait any longer... Going to bed
__________________
I once complained I had no shoes....
Until I met a man with no feet
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01-05-2017, 04:54 PM
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#26
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NE Oklahoma
Posts: 66
Year: 2000
Engine: 6.5L Turbo
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Great start to your build! Looking forward to the progress!
__________________
Okienomads 2000 Chevy Short Bus
Website
Instagram
Married couple full-timing in the American West-April 2018
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01-07-2017, 12:33 PM
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#27
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 487
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
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So I'm hoping you all can help me fill in the blanks with my electrical setup.
I've got six 12v 100 watt monocrystalline solar panels wired in parallel that run to a neat little rooftop junction box and down to an MPPT Morningstar TS-60 amp solar charger. The solar charger is mounted to the back of the "garage", sitting inches above a closed battery box containing 4 x Crown CR430 golf cart batteries. The batteries make a 12v bank at 860aH, with 430aH that I have to play with as I don't want to run the bank down past 50%. Also connected to the battery bank is a 1000w/2k surge modified sine inverter that powers my 110 wall outlets and appliances.
As for the ac side of the system, I'm not using much. My heat and hot water are propane. I have a residential fridge that sucks 6 amps/hr (figure 144 amps a day), an led tv that runs on 20w/hr, a computer that runs on 30w/hr... a mobile router for internet that should be pretty basic as well and a few devices we'll charge here and then. If I want the luxuries of a toaster or microwave in the future I'll invest in a bigger inverter. At the current time though I'll probably just have one 15amp circuit, maybe two to make things easier on both sides of the bus.
My dc system is going to be only a few fans (composting toilet, garage vent) and some led lighting. Barely any power consumption there.
My inverter is an inverter/charger so that I have the ability to charge up my battery bank at a campsite every now and then if I need it. As it is I should be able to run the fridge for 3 days if I don't harness any solar energy.
I decided on a 30 amp service and I'm at the stage where I need a small breaker panel to tie everything together. But this is where I'm lost. Can anyone recommend something that will meet my demands? And where does this panel sit in relation to everything else? Should I run my solar through the main breaker panel for a nice tidy disconnect if I need to service anything? How would you guys tackle this knowing what my demands and expectations are? Money is not an issue right now -- I'm on a time crunch and have got to get this finished.
Thanks in advance.
__________________
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need ... roads.
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01-11-2017, 09:43 PM
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#28
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 487
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
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__________________
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need ... roads.
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01-12-2017, 04:18 AM
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#29
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Winlcok, WA
Posts: 2,233
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I can understand removing many electrical circuits that you won't be using.
What I don't understand is you and several others on here have removed the heated mirrors.
As one who started in the industry long before heated mirrors were common, when I was assigned a bus with heated mirrors I thought I had cut a fat hog! I would complain very loudly every time I was sent on a trip or given a sub bus without heated mirrors.
It is so nice to be able to look into a mirror when the weather is cold, foggy, raining, or snowing and you can actually see stuff in the mirrors.
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01-12-2017, 05:08 AM
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#30
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: hills of sw virginia
Posts: 889
Year: 1996
Chassis: thomas
Engine: 8.3 cummins
Rated Cap: 11 window
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warewolff
So I'm hoping you all can help me fill in the blanks with my electrical setup.
I've got six 12v 100 watt monocrystalline solar panels wired in parallel that run to a neat little rooftop junction box and down to an MPPT Morningstar TS-60 amp solar charger. The solar charger is mounted to the back of the "garage", sitting inches above a closed battery box containing 4 x Crown CR430 golf cart batteries. The batteries make a 12v bank at 860aH, with 430aH that I have to play with as I don't want to run the bank down past 50%. Also connected to the battery bank is a 1000w/2k surge modified sine inverter that powers my 110 wall outlets and appliances.
As for the ac side of the system, I'm not using much. My heat and hot water are propane. I have a residential fridge that sucks 6 amps/hr (figure 144 amps a day), an led tv that runs on 20w/hr, a computer that runs on 30w/hr... a mobile router for internet that should be pretty basic as well and a few devices we'll charge here and then. If I want the luxuries of a toaster or microwave in the future I'll invest in a bigger inverter. At the current time though I'll probably just have one 15amp circuit, maybe two to make things easier on both sides of the bus.
My dc system is going to be only a few fans (composting toilet, garage vent) and some led lighting. Barely any power consumption there.
My inverter is an inverter/charger so that I have the ability to charge up my battery bank at a campsite every now and then if I need it. As it is I should be able to run the fridge for 3 days if I don't harness any solar energy.
I decided on a 30 amp service and I'm at the stage where I need a small breaker panel to tie everything together. But this is where I'm lost. Can anyone recommend something that will meet my demands? And where does this panel sit in relation to everything else? Should I run my solar through the main breaker panel for a nice tidy disconnect if I need to service anything? How would you guys tackle this knowing what my demands and expectations are? Money is not an issue right now -- I'm on a time crunch and have got to get this finished.
Thanks in advance.
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without looking at your inverter/charger. just hook your #10 or #8 shore power cable to the ac in on your inverter. when you plug in all ac loads should switch over to shore power automatically , then it will charge your batteries. if you have loads like air cond that wont be hooked up to the inverter you can run your shore power to a small breaker box and then run a line to your air cond and the inverter. if you plan on having two air cond units then I would go to 50 amp 2 pole shore power and put each ac unit on a separate leg. you will need #6 4 conductor wire for 50 amp
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01-12-2017, 05:13 AM
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#31
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: hills of sw virginia
Posts: 889
Year: 1996
Chassis: thomas
Engine: 8.3 cummins
Rated Cap: 11 window
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach
I can understand removing many electrical circuits that you won't be using.
What I don't understand is you and several others on here have removed the heated mirrors.
As one who started in the industry long before heated mirrors were common, when I was assigned a bus with heated mirrors I thought I had cut a fat hog! I would complain very loudly every time I was sent on a trip or given a sub bus without heated mirrors.
It is so nice to be able to look into a mirror when the weather is cold, foggy, raining, or snowing and you can actually see stuff in the mirrors.
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I just ordered mew mirrors for the bus, every time I back her in my bus house I rip one of them off. I was thinking of getting a couple of these if I can find them that fold in. the 97 model came with nice molded mirrors, I need to find some in the junk yard
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01-12-2017, 09:27 AM
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#32
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 487
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach
I can understand removing many electrical circuits that you won't be using.
What I don't understand is you and several others on here have removed the heated mirrors.
As one who started in the industry long before heated mirrors were common, when I was assigned a bus with heated mirrors I thought I had cut a fat hog! I would complain very loudly every time I was sent on a trip or given a sub bus without heated mirrors.
It is so nice to be able to look into a mirror when the weather is cold, foggy, raining, or snowing and you can actually see stuff in the mirrors.
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I removed the safety hood mounted mirrors and this was what the circuit went to,
__________________
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need ... roads.
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01-12-2017, 09:47 AM
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#33
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,707
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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I keep the safety hood mirrors.. they are awesome for when maneuvering the bus in tight spots .. I have them adjusted so I can easily see my fenders .. love them.
I hear some say those hood mirrors are easy to rip off and damage the fiberglass hood.. I just personally don't run into stuff with my bus so that's a non issue..
The dev has heated busboy mirrors, redbyrd the busboys are not heated but soon will be.
The factory bluebird mirrors in redbyrd are power and heated both.
Christopher
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01-12-2017, 10:00 AM
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#34
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kansas
Posts: 492
Year: 2000
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: Your mom +1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
I just personally don't run into stuff with my bus so that's a non issue..
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This guy knows whats up... I couldn't see driving my bus in the winter without my heated mirrors or the hood mirrors either. They make driving a large vehicle waaaaay easier...
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01-21-2017, 01:29 PM
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#35
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 487
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
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So I just started a thread asking for opinions on the gauge of wire I should be using in my electrical setup HERE. We are expecting our 4 x Crown 430aH 6v batteries no later than Tuesday. All the rest of the components have arrived. Stove comes in Feb 11th...
__________________
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need ... roads.
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05-09-2017, 04:00 PM
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#36
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 487
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
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Electrical update
Just an update on my electrical system, which is almost finished. As of now I have twelve 100w 12v Renogy solar panels at a total of 1.2kW, two Morningstar Tristar MPPT 60 charge controllers, four Crown CR430 430aH batteries configured in a 12v battery array for a total of 860aH, and a 1500w (2200 surge) Magnum MM1512AE inverter/charger. At this point I think I've got about $5k invested in the off grid setup. I'm running a full sized fridge, onboard recording studio/office setup, and some other miscellaneous items. My batteries rarely drain.
I'll update some more in the future but I'm attaching some pictures to show how it all looks. It's still looking a little sloppy as I'm waiting on a pair of solar breakers to come in and I still have to build a battery box around the batteries so my system components don't corrode. But for now ...
__________________
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need ... roads.
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05-09-2017, 05:12 PM
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#37
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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That's pretty cool. Kind of on the expensive side, but you've got a system that will last.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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05-10-2017, 09:45 AM
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#38
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warewolff
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I'm thinking sideways, two rows, and the house panels (at 300W a panel) but I'm nowhere near that yet. ONce I see a price tag I may very well change my mind too.
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05-10-2017, 10:15 AM
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#39
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kansas
Posts: 492
Year: 2000
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: Your mom +1
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I was looking at the Magnum MM1512AE today. It says in the spec sheet they aren't suitable for mobile installs because they lack neutral to ground switching. How did you get around this? Manual neutral to ground switch wired externally?
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05-10-2017, 10:20 AM
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#40
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 487
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
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I don't think so, but I had an electrician set it up. He told me it would not be a problem. I consulted with handybob and he told me the same thing. I can take more close up pictures of how it's wired if that helps you. cadillackid is running the same inverter.
__________________
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need ... roads.
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