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Old 12-30-2016, 06:58 PM   #21
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 3,879
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
the carpenter elerctrical wiring is a mess to say the least... I chunked a ton of stuff out of my electrical panel too.. made it nice for adding my own..

I really dont dig any of the carpenter Heaters at all.. i think they are all JUNK.. I rebuiolt my driver console with my own innards for heat and A/C.. my right side heater is a mess..

now having a bluebird I see how much more compact their right-side heater is..

sounds like you are getting your bus set up nicely and ready to go!! casnt wait to see the pix.

what did you do to your T-444E? standard stuff? ICP,IPR, updated FPR, new Tstat?

-Christopher
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Old 12-31-2016, 05:00 AM   #22
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 3,879
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Oops I missed the part about the computer
Interface , sure I can send it to you.
The software is free and called servicemaxx j1708. You can download it from navistar.

The device is a nexiq USB link 2 and the drivers are free on their site.
I can put the software installers on a USB drive and toss in the box .

Now is actually a great time since I'm in Florida and my bluebird is in Ohio, I won't need it for a couple weeks at least.
Christopher
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Old 12-31-2016, 06:12 PM   #23
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 170
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
Oops I missed the part about the computer
Interface , sure I can send it to you.
The software is free and called servicemaxx j1708. You can download it from navistar.

The device is a nexiq USB link 2 and the drivers are free on their site.
I can put the software installers on a USB drive and toss in the box .

Now is actually a great time since I'm in Florida and my bluebird is in Ohio, I won't need it for a couple weeks at least.
Christopher
Yes!!! You are a life saver. Can I PM you my cell number and personal details so we can coordinate my leaving you a deposit for peace of mind?
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Old 01-01-2017, 07:06 PM   #24
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 170
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
Just purchased 6 x 12v 100w solar panels and a 60 amp Morningstar MPPT charger. Posting pictures tonight..
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Old 01-02-2017, 02:04 AM   #25
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,118
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
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Originally Posted by warewolff View Post
Just purchased 6 x 12v 100w solar panels and a 60 amp Morningstar MPPT charger. Posting pictures tonight..
Can't wait any longer... Going to bed

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Old 01-05-2017, 05:54 PM   #26
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: NE Oklahoma
Posts: 46
Year: 2000
Engine: 6.5L Turbo
Great start to your build! Looking forward to the progress!
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Old 01-07-2017, 01:33 PM   #27
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 170
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
So I'm hoping you all can help me fill in the blanks with my electrical setup.

I've got six 12v 100 watt monocrystalline solar panels wired in parallel that run to a neat little rooftop junction box and down to an MPPT Morningstar TS-60 amp solar charger. The solar charger is mounted to the back of the "garage", sitting inches above a closed battery box containing 4 x Crown CR430 golf cart batteries. The batteries make a 12v bank at 860aH, with 430aH that I have to play with as I don't want to run the bank down past 50%. Also connected to the battery bank is a 1000w/2k surge modified sine inverter that powers my 110 wall outlets and appliances.

As for the ac side of the system, I'm not using much. My heat and hot water are propane. I have a residential fridge that sucks 6 amps/hr (figure 144 amps a day), an led tv that runs on 20w/hr, a computer that runs on 30w/hr... a mobile router for internet that should be pretty basic as well and a few devices we'll charge here and then. If I want the luxuries of a toaster or microwave in the future I'll invest in a bigger inverter. At the current time though I'll probably just have one 15amp circuit, maybe two to make things easier on both sides of the bus.

My dc system is going to be only a few fans (composting toilet, garage vent) and some led lighting. Barely any power consumption there.

My inverter is an inverter/charger so that I have the ability to charge up my battery bank at a campsite every now and then if I need it. As it is I should be able to run the fridge for 3 days if I don't harness any solar energy.

I decided on a 30 amp service and I'm at the stage where I need a small breaker panel to tie everything together. But this is where I'm lost. Can anyone recommend something that will meet my demands? And where does this panel sit in relation to everything else? Should I run my solar through the main breaker panel for a nice tidy disconnect if I need to service anything? How would you guys tackle this knowing what my demands and expectations are? Money is not an issue right now -- I'm on a time crunch and have got to get this finished.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:43 PM   #28
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 170
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
Better late than never! Progress pictures, as promised.

The bus floor painted in Rustoleum after I polished every square inch of it with an angle grinder and a flapping disc:


Don't need any of that! Goodbye strobe, stop sign, heaters, heated mirrors, alarms, and other goodies...


My main electrical board after cleaning it all up a bit. What you can't see is that I also tore through the entire wiring cluster and swapped the original interior 1156 lighting with LED's. It will all run off the battery bank 12v system:


After caulking every single seam and painting the floor. 1 1/2" Foamular 150 (R 7.5) followed by 5/8" tongue and groove OSB plywood:






Laying down our dog resistant laminate flooring:






I laid the laminate down right to the spot under my pedals. Took me awhile to figure out how to finish the whole area off neatly but I decided I'm going to use some thick soundproofing studio fiberglass insulation and finish it off with a nice clean rubber surface. I'm going to have to raise the pedals, though. Anyone know how I can easily accomplish that daunting task?




Lost almost 3 inches in height when I installed my subfloor/floor:


Switching gears... I posted the link for my rebuild thread on the tachometer but here are some of the disassembly pictures:






Got the windows out and the steel up. I'll post some better pictures in the future but this gives a rough idea of the windows that came out. I did all this without a single rivet using 3M VHB double sided tape. You can also see I've been dabbling with the exterior paint. We think we like this color:


Late night work! Our 10cf fridge and kitchen cabinets came in. If you look close enough you can see the interior side of the recently skinned windows:








Eight more sheets of Foamular 150 (R 7.5) for the walls ...
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Old 01-12-2017, 05:18 AM   #29
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Winlcok, WA
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I can understand removing many electrical circuits that you won't be using.

What I don't understand is you and several others on here have removed the heated mirrors.

As one who started in the industry long before heated mirrors were common, when I was assigned a bus with heated mirrors I thought I had cut a fat hog! I would complain very loudly every time I was sent on a trip or given a sub bus without heated mirrors.

It is so nice to be able to look into a mirror when the weather is cold, foggy, raining, or snowing and you can actually see stuff in the mirrors.
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Old 01-12-2017, 06:08 AM   #30
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: hills of sw virginia
Posts: 713
Year: 1996
Chassis: thomas
Engine: 8.3 cummins
Rated Cap: 11 window
Quote:
Originally Posted by warewolff View Post
So I'm hoping you all can help me fill in the blanks with my electrical setup.

I've got six 12v 100 watt monocrystalline solar panels wired in parallel that run to a neat little rooftop junction box and down to an MPPT Morningstar TS-60 amp solar charger. The solar charger is mounted to the back of the "garage", sitting inches above a closed battery box containing 4 x Crown CR430 golf cart batteries. The batteries make a 12v bank at 860aH, with 430aH that I have to play with as I don't want to run the bank down past 50%. Also connected to the battery bank is a 1000w/2k surge modified sine inverter that powers my 110 wall outlets and appliances.

As for the ac side of the system, I'm not using much. My heat and hot water are propane. I have a residential fridge that sucks 6 amps/hr (figure 144 amps a day), an led tv that runs on 20w/hr, a computer that runs on 30w/hr... a mobile router for internet that should be pretty basic as well and a few devices we'll charge here and then. If I want the luxuries of a toaster or microwave in the future I'll invest in a bigger inverter. At the current time though I'll probably just have one 15amp circuit, maybe two to make things easier on both sides of the bus.

My dc system is going to be only a few fans (composting toilet, garage vent) and some led lighting. Barely any power consumption there.

My inverter is an inverter/charger so that I have the ability to charge up my battery bank at a campsite every now and then if I need it. As it is I should be able to run the fridge for 3 days if I don't harness any solar energy.

I decided on a 30 amp service and I'm at the stage where I need a small breaker panel to tie everything together. But this is where I'm lost. Can anyone recommend something that will meet my demands? And where does this panel sit in relation to everything else? Should I run my solar through the main breaker panel for a nice tidy disconnect if I need to service anything? How would you guys tackle this knowing what my demands and expectations are? Money is not an issue right now -- I'm on a time crunch and have got to get this finished.

Thanks in advance.
without looking at your inverter/charger. just hook your #10 or #8 shore power cable to the ac in on your inverter. when you plug in all ac loads should switch over to shore power automatically , then it will charge your batteries. if you have loads like air cond that wont be hooked up to the inverter you can run your shore power to a small breaker box and then run a line to your air cond and the inverter. if you plan on having two air cond units then I would go to 50 amp 2 pole shore power and put each ac unit on a separate leg. you will need #6 4 conductor wire for 50 amp
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