What have I done!? - New Central Alberta Skoolie Build

ZedEx · 06-16-2017, 04:41 PM

Just picked up my 2000 Freightliner 40ft school bus today!

https://imgur.com/gallery/XcNDT

Step one, remove seats!

oricha1984 · 06-16-2017, 07:02 PM

Rusty · 06-16-2017, 09:21 PM

Cool ride ! You will get past the shock phase soon enough.

Get reading and planning your build !

His album

Tootalltechie · 06-17-2017, 02:14 AM

Welcome to Skoolie.net from Northern British Columbia
Gordon

Sent from my SM-G530W using Tapatalk

REDD · 06-17-2017, 07:37 AM

....by the looks of your of skoolie, I have the same one?

Stick or auto? ....just had mine appraised, waiting the last week for the insurance company to decide if they want to insure it or not.

Good luck on your build!

david.dgeorge07 · 06-17-2017, 02:42 PM

Good luck on the build! At every turn I think you are likely to fund unexpected work, but you will get through it! Looks like a nice bus! Good luck with the insurance!

ZedEx · 06-22-2017, 11:36 AM

Auto. Wawanesas insurance said they'll insure it as a Motorhome no problem. Just have to send in pictures of finished stuff.

So I have a dilemma I'm trying to work through. I was hoping that I had at least a 3/4" subfloor with the lino on top to work with so that I could put at least 3/4 rigid foam. But I just yanked up the floor and it's 1/2". My ceiling is exactly 6ft, and my wife is 5'10. She said that if she has to duck to walk around the bus, it's a deal breaker completely. So I have maybe a half inch to work with extra. How important is it to insulate the floor? It's going to be used down south so we can avoid most of the Alberta winter. But I would still have to drive through Alberta and the northern states and not have to rush if I don't have to. So far my backup plan is 1x4 strapping every 2ft with 3/4 rigid foam in between and half inch plywood on top. Then lino on that.
But I was wondering if I could just do half inch plywood with lino, like whats in there and spray foam the underside of the bus with 1" of closed cell foam instead. I was already planning on undercoating after the floor install. But this could eliminate that step as well.
Has anyone tried that?

ZedEx · 06-22-2017, 11:55 AM

Progress: https://imgur.com/gallery/EunYi

david.dgeorge07 · 06-22-2017, 11:57 AM

I'm considering similar issues myself. I've tentatively decided on the following:

1/2" rigid foam
19/32" (0.578") plywood
4 mm (.157") vinyl tile.

Total thickness should be about 1 1/4" and seems like a good combination of insulation, strength and finish quality.

Stu & Filo. T · 06-22-2017, 11:58 AM

Take the roof up 10"

ZedEx · 06-22-2017, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

I'm considering similar issues myself. I've tentatively decided on the following:

1/2" rigid foam
19/32" (0.578") plywood
4 mm (.157") vinyl tile.

Total thickness should be about 1 1/4" and seems like a good combination of insulation, strength and finish quality.

1x4 strapping at 2ft intervals?

I'm starting to lean towards 1" spray foaming the entire bus (including the underside). It's more expensive, but I think I wont regret it. Really nervous about doing it myself though...
Do I need to use marine board on the floor? Is there any issues with the steel reacting to the treatment in the boards that I would have to worry about?

david.dgeorge07 · 06-22-2017, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZedEx

1x4 strapping at 2ft intervals?

I'm starting to lean towards 1" spray foaming the entire bus (including the underside). It's more expensive, but I think I wont regret it. Really nervous about doing it myself though...
Do I need to use marine board on the floor? Is there any issues with the steel reacting to the treatment in the boards that I would have to worry about?

I've seen people do it both ways. I think it depends some on the foam. If it is the right kind it can support the weight, provided that it is spread out. I haven't made a final decision, and don't want to lead anyone astray, but I've seen enough people doing it that way to think that it may be viable. I know that some people do put square plywood risers that are cut in with the insulation to provide solid connection points to the steel.

I think you'll find spraying the underside to be quite difficult, but let us know if you have good success.

As far as marine grade or treated plywood, I was not planning on it, but it seems like if the floor is primed well and if you put a vapor barrier it shouldn't cause problems.

If there are persistent moisture problems in the subfloor you've got problems either way. I don't like the idea of treated lumber in living areas generally, and, right or wrong it doesn't look like that's the way most people go.

CaptSquid · 06-22-2017, 02:59 PM

I'm using 1" rigid foam and no floor insulation. I still have more than 6" head room and I'm 6'2".

ZedEx · 06-22-2017, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaptSquid

I'm using 1" rigid foam and no floor insulation. I still have more than 6" head room and I'm 6'2".

Wish my bus was that tall inside. I have to crane my neck a bit. I'm fine with it though. We naturally bend over when using kitchen counters and that's really the only time I'll be standing in place inside.
What climate you going to be spending time in?

CaptSquid · 06-22-2017, 04:20 PM

Down south in Billings! I've already wintered over twice. Mind you, it do get a bit frosty here, so German Federbetten and long underwear are de rigeur.

ZedEx · 06-22-2017, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaptSquid

Down south in Billings! I've already wintered over twice. Mind you, it do get a bit frosty here, so German Federbetten and long underwear are de rigeur.

You wintered in Montana with that little insulation? Did frost ever build up inside? Did you have to skirt it?
What temps does it get down to there?

EastCoastCB · 06-22-2017, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stu & Filo. T

Take the roof up 10"

PURE GENIUS!

chev49 · 06-22-2017, 04:44 PM

It is very important to insulate the floor, and there is more than one way to do it. A really good idea is to chop off the roof and raise it 18 inches, which will give you space for not only the floor insulation but storage. in my last bus, I also raised the entire floor 8 inches, (insulated above the rubber mat). This gave me a huge amount of storage for things such as canned goods, extra tool boxes and so forth. I certainly would do this again, with floor pieces removable enough to get to the compartments. I did not make storage compartments under the sinks, etc where there was pipes and so forth. In the very cold weather in montana 4 winters ago while i was traveling, the floor was cold, but not frozen, and i really appreciated the extra storage for things i didnt have to put in the overhead cabinets which were pretty much full of other things. As a great help, in this thomas re, i looked online to figure out how to build a zero clearance small wood stove, and that is so nice in cold weather.
do careful planning and take extra time to build things to make you the most comfortable.

EastCoastCB · 06-22-2017, 04:49 PM

Its amazing what that ten inch roof raise did for our headroom, and our morale in general!

I'm 5'10, she's 5'2, from our floor to the ribs is now 85". PLENTY of room to spare, and the bus isn't all top heavy or too tall.

It was TOTALLY worth it.

CaptSquid · 06-22-2017, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZedEx

You wintered in Montana with that little insulation? Did frost ever build up inside? Did you have to skirt it?
What temps does it get down to there?

No frost inside Brunhilde. But, my water jug did freeze up. No skirt yet; she sits close to the ground.

Last winter was sub-freezing, Had to check in to a motel twice. Took copious hot showers! But I do remember -35º F.

You may also like: