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Old 04-09-2019, 08:29 AM   #51
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: North Pole, AK
Posts: 198
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Amtrak RE
Chassis: International 3000
Engine: T444e
Our door rattles, leaks, and slowly opens when the air pressure starts dropping after we shut down the engine. It also has 0 insulation.
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Old 04-09-2019, 08:49 AM   #52
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Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
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Originally Posted by tugboater View Post
Hi Native- thanks! & that's correct, the sides are just hung with a few screws. We got our rivets & they work well. I'm going to take my time buttoning everything up. Probably a full day per side, just to make sure everything seals up. I like to turn up the music & putter There are a lot of holes to fill & some are a little to big for 3/16" rivets. I'll probably use a size up stainless hex screws for those. I've tested them out in a couple spots & they really suck the layers of steel together. You can probably see I tucked sheets underneath to face away from oncoming weather when we travel. I'll clean up the rain guards real well and get them back in place. When I took them down I noticed you could see daylight between them and the side of the bus in several places.

I'm sure there are cheaper alternatives to using clecos...I just wanted to try them so I bought a few. They came in handy for that patch on the crown of the roof. I used ratchet straps for the first patch which worked great, but I think the clecos made the second one easier without struggling on my own with straps. I know they'll come in handy when I reinstall the gutters.
I'm going to experiment with heavy duty magnets to see if they'll work as a second pair of hands when I do my sheeting
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Old 04-09-2019, 09:24 AM   #53
Skoolie
 
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Location: Palmer, AK
Posts: 227
Year: 2004
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf T Liner MVP 11 window 32’
Engine: CAT 3126E
Rated Cap: 72
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I'm going to experiment with heavy duty magnets to see if they'll work as a second pair of hands when I do my sheeting
I had twin 6'5" heavy duty magnets helping me when I hung mine I couldn't have done it without their help. It's about time they started to work off all the food and septic tank space I provide them! I'm curious how your magnets work out...if they don't let me know and I'll send mine down to you.
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Old 04-09-2019, 09:32 AM   #54
Skoolie
 
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Location: Palmer, AK
Posts: 227
Year: 2004
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf T Liner MVP 11 window 32’
Engine: CAT 3126E
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Originally Posted by Biscuitsjam View Post
Our door rattles, leaks, and slowly opens when the air pressure starts dropping after we shut down the engine. It also has 0 insulation.
I'm going to share your experience with my wifey...

Ours is solid and doesn't leak & I plan on insulating it, but I just don't see much of a need for it either. Unless I install stairs, it won't get used as an entrance. That won't happen because I'm going to utilize all the space under the floor. Our wood stove is going to be in front of it by just a few feet, so it might be a handy/clean way to load wood.
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Old 04-09-2019, 09:49 AM   #55
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Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 1,005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tugboater View Post
I had twin 6'5" heavy duty magnets helping me when I hung mine I couldn't have done it without their help. It's about time they started to work off all the food and septic tank space I provide them! I'm curious how your magnets work out...if they don't let me know and I'll send mine down to you.
never know, I might take you up on that
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Old 04-09-2019, 09:35 PM   #56
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Join Date: Sep 2015
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Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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Originally Posted by tugboater View Post
I'm going to share your experience with my wifey...

Ours is solid and doesn't leak & I plan on insulating it, but I just don't see much of a need for it either. Unless I install stairs, it won't get used as an entrance. That won't happen because I'm going to utilize all the space under the floor. Our wood stove is going to be in front of it by just a few feet, so it might be a handy/clean way to load wood.

The door might be useful for loading furniture.



"They" make stairs that occupy the volume which one might consider the door jam and they fold down for ingress/egress. We saw them in action at our local United RV store. They are probably at most any of the bigger RV outfitters.
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Old 04-15-2019, 01:12 AM   #57
Skoolie
 
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Location: Palmer, AK
Posts: 227
Year: 2004
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf T Liner MVP 11 window 32’
Engine: CAT 3126E
Rated Cap: 72
600 rivets later....top rails done.

It took a few days, a couple hours at a time, but I'm finally done sealing up the top rails. I used about 95% rivets & just a few self tapping sheet metal screws where I felt it was necessary to really pull layers together. Super happy with how it turned out, I'm glad I removed the gutter and tucked the sheets under the roof vs. just jamming the sheet up under the it & hoping for the best. I read a few folks posting about how they wished they could do that step over because of rattles and leaks. It was tedious, annoying & a bit messy from the sealer I applied...with the expertise of a finger painting 3 year old. I didn't want to rush & risk a sub-par job because of my lack of patience. I'll be just as diligent on the sides & along the bottom rail.

IMG_3140.jpg
I used the head of a nail to pull the roof away from the skin to make room for a bead of sealer.

IMG_3141.jpg
It got messy when I pulled the sheets together with rivets & screws, but once I figured out a system it wasn't too bad. At first that goop was turning up all over me and my tools.
IMG_3144.jpg

You can see the bead in the shadow...waiting to pounce on any exposed skin or valuable tools. My wife and sons came out to help for a few minutes at different times, each leaving with that nastiness stuck to them.

IMG_3148.jpg
Next will be to seal and fasten the sides/bottoms, then I'll clean up the gutters and put them back in place.
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Old 04-15-2019, 01:26 PM   #58
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 482
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
Nice progress. The sealer is always a mess. If someone knows how NOT to get it all over the place, please share!
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Old 04-21-2019, 04:43 PM   #59
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Palmer, AK
Posts: 227
Year: 2004
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf T Liner MVP 11 window 32’
Engine: CAT 3126E
Rated Cap: 72
Wilderland Bus AK _ '04 Thomas 32' FE

Still sealing things up here. Spent some time this fine Easter morning setting up to bondo the flasher holes.

IMG_3212.jpg

Removed the lights & eyebrows months ago



IMG_3210.jpg

Cleaned things up on the inside.



IMG_3211.jpg

Measured and cut 4ea. 18g backing plates out of my leftover skins. Flapper wheeled off the outer layer, down to steel because the skin is galvanized.



IMG_3215.jpg

Made myself a Jim stick (for lack of a better term, named after my welder buddy that showed me how to use copper as a backing when filling holes).



IMG_3217.jpg

I enlisted my son Alex to hold the plate while I tacked it in place from the outside, through the existing screw holes . Then I drilled several holes through the bus & plate. I had Alex push the plate with the copper, over each hole from the inside.



IMG_3216.jpg

I welded up the holes from the outside, then went inside and welded the holes there as well.



IMG_3220.jpg

IMG_3218.jpg

IMG_3224.jpg
my first dual with bondo...we’ll see how it goes
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Old 04-25-2019, 11:08 PM   #60
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Palmer, AK
Posts: 227
Year: 2004
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf T Liner MVP 11 window 32’
Engine: CAT 3126E
Rated Cap: 72
Wilderland Bus AK _ '04 Thomas 32' FE

Been doing quite a bit of sitting & looking around in this shell of a thing...trying to find holes in our plan. I absolutely am going to need to install some leveling jacks. If I so much as turn my head & fart this thing moves and squeaks back at me.

https://youtu.be/Kr_pJIFLVtI
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