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Old 01-16-2018, 10:29 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon
Posts: 39
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: 5.9l Cummins
Rated Cap: 72 - 27800
Willamina Phase I

So I bought a bus, I already made an intro thread so I'll just get right to it. A lot of Phase I will be just a repeat of what you've seen a million times.

Drove the bus home and got her up the driveway (barely)
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:34 PM   #2
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon
Posts: 39
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: 5.9l Cummins
Rated Cap: 72 - 27800
With the bus home it's time to start about getting the seats out.

To those that haven't done this, it might be more lame than you're expecting. The bolts on the isle side go through the body and have lock nuts on the other side. The best way I found to get the job done was to cut the heads of the bolts off using a death wheel.

I stripped the seats down and saved the seat back foam because it was really clean. 8-10 of the seat cushions were brand new looking too so I saved those for use later. Everything else was recycled.
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:42 PM   #3
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Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,093
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
Nice job. Yeah, the seats are the first test after getting it home. It's a very, very, very long string of tests to get one of these done. It's therapeutic.
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:43 PM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon
Posts: 39
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: 5.9l Cummins
Rated Cap: 72 - 27800
Removing the rubber floor revealed soaking wet plywood with the most disgusting slimy adhesive gook ever. The plywood was peeled back to exposed the rusty underbelly.

The rust wasn't that bad really, I ground out the scale with a wire wheel on a 4.5" grinder and gave it a dusting of self etching primer (I hate sanding)

I'm not sure whats more of a pain in the neck, moving the heater all the time or just disconnecting it.
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:53 PM   #5
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon
Posts: 39
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: 5.9l Cummins
Rated Cap: 72 - 27800
With all that dealt with I set about sealing the holes in the floor. I could've welded them but I didn't. I squirted liquid nails in all the holes and covered them with aluminum tape. Now a tar vapor barrier and after much consideration on sub flooring I ended up using plywood. I framed around the fuel pump access... because.
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:59 PM   #6
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon
Posts: 39
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: 5.9l Cummins
Rated Cap: 72 - 27800
I used 2" coated self drilling screws for the floor, they have a countersunk phillips head. Best results were experienced with the drill on low speed.
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Old 01-16-2018, 11:05 PM   #7
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 1,473
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
The rites of passage ...

Removing seats, stripping floor to metal if the ply is bad. Fixing holes.

Removing ceiling and walls. What to do with the ton+ of material cluttering up the yard.

All of that is free save some shop supplies. It's just hard work.

Then you get to the fun bit, and the spending starts.

Oh, and while that is happening, a full service of everything "bus".
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Old 01-16-2018, 11:07 PM   #8
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon
Posts: 39
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: 5.9l Cummins
Rated Cap: 72 - 27800
For the sake of redundancy I'm putting another layer of vapor barrier on top of the subfloor like one would in a residential house. By the end of the day today I was starting to frame a wall and now I can't wait to figure out what I'm going to do for a sink, stove, and fridge.


Robin - I forgot to mention that I left one hole by the front door to cover with a lucky penny! Any idea what the wires are there to the left when you walk in? Looks like there was an FE mounted there or something but I'm not sure what the wires would be for.
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Old 01-16-2018, 11:14 PM   #9
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 1,473
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
Quote:
Originally Posted by Enrico Carini View Post
For the sake of redundancy I'm putting another layer of vapor barrier on top of the subfloor like one would in a residential house. By the end of the day today I was starting to frame a wall and now I can't wait to figure out what I'm going to do for a sink, stove, and fridge.


Robin - I forgot to mention that I left one hole by the front door to cover with a lucky penny! Any idea what the wires are there to the left when you walk in? Looks like there was an FE mounted there or something but I'm not sure what the wires would be for.
Be aware that it is possible to trap moisture between two impermeable layers.

I wouldn't do it. Houses have only one vapor barrier.
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Old 01-16-2018, 11:27 PM   #10
Bus Nut
 
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: pa
Posts: 669
Year: 98
Coachwork: 1. Corbeil & 2. Thomas
Chassis: 1 ford e350 2 mercedes
Engine: 7.3 powerstroke & MBE906
hi Enrico, you are going pretty fast . Not sure what your head room is but this would be a good time to throw an inch or so foam under the plywood.

later J
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