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Old 06-03-2019, 08:13 PM   #61
Skoolie
 
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My radiator

My radiator and charge air cooler is mounted to a frame that is bolted to the frame/cross member on the bottom and held in place on the sides by some rods that are bolted to brackets on the frame. The whole mount comes out or you can take the radiator out of this frame as well. The fan shroud bolts to this frame frame the back side of course.
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Old 06-10-2019, 10:12 PM   #62
Skoolie
 
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Engine: DT466E 215hp 620tq
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Update

WE installed the solar panels this weekend. I need to figure out how to secure them and still be able to tilt them when we are parked. But its a start.
I finished all of the plumbing and sewage installation.
Installed all of the propane tubing and flexable hoses to the furnace, stove and hot water heater.
We also painted the roof.

Next we install all of the wiring inside the bus.

Getting close to being usable finished, I will still have to do cabinet work and finishing details. But I should have her up and going by the end of August.

Feels good to see progress and my to do list shrinking.
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Old 09-09-2019, 06:46 PM   #63
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Join Date: Feb 2018
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Some Updates

Its been a very long time since I posted any kind of an update for those who are interested.

Ive done some lighting with the installation of the LED marker lights and tail lights.

I finished up the dinette/lounge

I laid down the vinyl flooring

I Installed the charging and control station under the couch

I installed some gauges to monitor the HPOP system

And the greatest success was I finally got the engine and the tranny to communicate and to start on their own.

Word to the wise, if you are going to arc or wire feed weld on your bus disconnect the engine and transmission computers and the shift panel/pad.

I blew up my shifter pad which then would not communicate to the TCM and not let the engine start. Then I found out I fragged the engine computer which corrupted the calibration and is not engaging the engine crank inhibit circuit.

Long story short I did it to my self but I learned alot about how my bus starts.
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Old 09-10-2019, 02:58 AM   #64
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Your interior sure looks nice!


That was a hard lesson to learn. Thank you for sharing.
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Old 09-10-2019, 07:54 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FamilyCircus View Post

Word to the wise, if you are going to arc or wire feed weld on your bus disconnect the engine and transmission computers and the shift panel/pad.
Well crap, I've been doing a lot of welding lately. How hard is it to disconnect the computers? I can't seem to find any info on doing this for my type of bus.
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Old 09-10-2019, 09:39 AM   #66
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I was told to disconnect the batteries before welding, not sure about the computers. Better look into that.
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Old 09-10-2019, 11:47 AM   #67
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No batteries

I had no batteries in my bus when I did the welding but all the computers (4) were connected. The TCM was fine, the shift pad died and the ECM has a software issue that cant be explained with just a setting issue. I figure it was just enough EMF to cause my issues.

To disconnect the TCM was simple, 3 connectors with simple tabs to press and pull the connectors off the TCM.

The shift pad was just a squeeze of the connector and separate.

The ECM requires a little ratchet and a small socket, cant remember the size, then you can disconnect the 379 plug, its the one with the power supply and the main connection to everything on the body.

Next time i have to do any welding, like my main door construction, Ill remove/disconnect all those.
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Old 09-10-2019, 12:15 PM   #68
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Being serious what machines are you guys using that has that much of an arch start ?

Millermatic 250 and good clean ground I have no issues.
My miller aircrafter 300 didn’t even blow an eco or pcm.
Are you starting your weld on the chassis side or material side ?
That is a common mistake is to start on the chassis side while grounded to the material side.
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Old 09-10-2019, 12:19 PM   #69
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the next best thing is disconnecting the batteries and connecting the positive to the negative so that emf voltages get shorted. The other being that you and connection should be as close to your weld as possible.

Later j
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Old 09-10-2019, 03:16 PM   #70
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I was told to disconnect the batteries before welding, not sure about the computers. Better look into that.
Yeah, I don't want to fry your bus. Or my own, for that matter. Good thing I'm done for awhile and my bus is still working.

My logic might be as faulty as my preparation here, but all of my welding has been on the back of the bus, both the ground clamp and the material, so I think current flow affecting the computers in the front would be unlikely. I will happily be corrected on that assumption.
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Old 09-10-2019, 03:19 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Seriousracer View Post
Being serious what machines are you guys using that has that much of an arch start ?

Millermatic 250 and good clean ground I have no issues.
My miller aircrafter 300 didnít even blow an eco or pcm.
Are you starting your weld on the chassis side or material side ?
That is a common mistake is to start on the chassis side while grounded to the material side.
I've been doing it both ways while grounded to the bus body (although mostly material-first since the bus floor is rust and pitted in places and hard to start a weld puddle on that side). I didn't realize you should do one or the other. I'm a total welding newbie and would be happy for any other advice you can offer.
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Old 09-10-2019, 07:15 PM   #72
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How are you mounting your generator?
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Old 09-11-2019, 09:53 AM   #73
Skoolie
 
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Onan 4KW Generator

I used the Onan mount system bolted to the cross members of the floor.
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Old 09-11-2019, 09:58 PM   #74
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That is a nice fit!
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Old 09-11-2019, 11:22 PM   #75
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Others trying to convince me to not close it in under the body, ridiculous noise level they say.They said look at RV generators on slides, couldn't find any.
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Old 09-12-2019, 07:27 AM   #76
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im thuinking disconnecting the batteries can do more damage than good with welding.. as it lets transient voltages float around without the ballast of the batteries toi keep it down... eso if the negative side floats up..



Joe;'s idea is good.. connect both terminals to the frame.. so it all floats together..



ive been playung with vehicle computers so long its second nature for me to unoplug them if im doing anything wierd.. they are pretty hearty.. However they COUNT ON a solid ground... if the ground is left to float up they are very vulnerable..

-Christopher
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Old 09-12-2019, 07:34 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
im thuinking disconnecting the batteries can do more damage than good with welding.. as it lets transient voltages float around without the ballast of the batteries toi keep it down... eso if the negative side floats up..



Joe;'s idea is good.. connect both terminals to the frame.. so it all floats together..



ive been playung with vehicle computers so long its second nature for me to unoplug them if im doing anything wierd.. they are pretty hearty.. However they COUNT ON a solid ground... if the ground is left to float up they are very vulnerable..

-Christopher
Do you know of a good tutorial or video on this process of unplugging the computers (in a bus of my type)? I'm done welding for a bit but I think I should be doing this next time.

Like, where do I do the unplugging? Is this under the hood somewhere or do I have to get into my dashboard?
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Old 09-16-2019, 11:07 AM   #78
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
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Year: 2000
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Engine: DT466E 215hp 620tq
Rated Cap: 40
Ceiling and Kitchen progress

I started on the ceiling tongue and groove planks this weekend and mounted the LED ceiling lights.

I finished the cabinet, overhead storage racing for drawers and cabinet doors next.

I cleaned out the bus in preparation to drive it for the first time around the block since I got the bus and did the in frame but the brakes are rusted to the drums so I need to do some brake work to free them up, its been sitting for a year and a half so Im not surprised they are stuck.
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