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Old 09-16-2018, 06:06 PM   #21
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Watkins, Iowa
Posts: 83
Year: 2006
Coachwork: IH
Chassis: FE 300
Engine: DT 466
Rated Cap: 84
Mansfield....I didn't know that name. But that's a good call. I still have saddle tanks, steps, and a deck to figure out. I still want some kind of slope down to help load bigger things into the "garage" That will get the bumper down pretty low.

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Old 09-19-2018, 03:00 PM   #22
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Seats

Messing around welding some left legs to right legged seats and vice versa, its raining in Iowa. Decided to see how much work to cut up an old seat frame and salvage the bent tube. Read somewhere they used a seat to make a table. Sounded like a cool idea. I must say super impressed by anyone who cuts many of these apart just for the scrap. A ton of work and pretty dangerous disassembly using a side grinder. I recommend not even trying, save your fingers for more fun stuff.

But its totally worth it to redo a couple legs to get a fun seat. We used it around the fire pit and in the barn shop.
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Old 09-19-2018, 05:59 PM   #23
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,446
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnforrest View Post
Getting ready to build a back door on the bus. Looking for ideas. As of now I plan to make a double door set up so I have 50 or 60 inches of width available to get in. Thinking about making a removable center post so i would normally just use one door most of the time.
dunno if it'll help, but here's my rear doors setup
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f13/wh...tml#post169160
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Old 09-19-2018, 06:26 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by milkmania View Post
dunno if it'll help, but here's my rear doors setup
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f13/wh...tml#post169160
I like that. I need to get a 4' wide tank in and out once and a while. But I can just stand up inside my rig so I think I want the doors to go all the way to roof. I'm already a little dizzy.
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Old 09-25-2018, 08:22 AM   #25
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roof rack-back doors

Followed a bus down the highway for a few miles looking at the roof rack before I realized that flat platform would really make building the back doors alot easier.

If I build a square frame that ends up being the back of the roof rack, I wont have curved doors and I can make them a little taller. I'll have a place for a latch above my head height. That frame can help stiffen up the back of the body where I cut off the rear cap. I'll also have a taller spot to mount a overhang back out over the door a couple of feet.

Regular semi trailer doors and latches should work alot better this way.

I want 10-15 foot of wide rack toward the back with a cat walk at least up to the front safety hatch. Be fun to have a ladder that folded down over the front nose.

I have an idea on the back burner to have a rain fly that acts like a big umbrella but more for shade than rain protection. So I'll try and incorporate a place to set the top of some framework into the whole works.
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Old 10-09-2018, 03:51 PM   #26
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Posts: 83
Year: 2006
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Chassis: FE 300
Engine: DT 466
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Turns out I am completely full of **** on the comments I made about the interlock. Some buses may have their system work by grounding the interlock but mine caused me a bunch of trouble later. It worked this way for a while but something happened and my starter started sticking on after letting loose of the key to start. It ended up being that interlock circuit feeding 12 volt to starter.

I ended up disconnecting the whole interlock system and the bus starts fine now.

I think the key here is knowing what triggers the interlock relay to close. Pos or neg. on the trigger terminal. And if your bus has two wires going to the S terminal on the starter, you can just disconnect the one from the interlock. All it does is ground the other one if the interlock is open.
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Old 10-09-2018, 03:58 PM   #27
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Turns out this was wrong way to do things. See thread on electrical
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Old 10-27-2018, 08:14 PM   #28
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paint

This end of summer rush to get jobs done kind of killed working on the bus last month or so. Needed to get some paint on before it gets too cold, so I'll be able to drive it on the roads. Ive been wondering what my paint idea would look like.

Once we get freezing weather my work will stop for the year and I'll be full time on getting things ready for camping.
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Old 11-18-2018, 09:07 PM   #29
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novembuuur

Well I knew it was going to be like this. Actually going to warm up pretty good this week.


This week I am getting started on the back door and back half of the roof rack. I decided the front section of roof rack will be supported by the garage wall 8-10 feet from the back door. some pics once I get going will be better than trying to describe it.



I'll end up with two doors that open in the very back and a section around the front garage door that I can un-bolt to get bug stuff up into the living area.
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Old 11-28-2018, 08:27 AM   #30
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Chilly day, welding and scratching my head. This framework will be the basis for door frame and the support for back half of roof rack. Realized Ill be able to extent roof rack back over the hitch area for a bit of a sunshade and roof over doors.
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Old 11-28-2018, 12:18 PM   #31
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A little better shot. Moving bumper forward to bottom of that angle.

Any Ideas of other things to add?
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Old 11-28-2018, 07:41 PM   #32
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Another Jacuzzi Bus???
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:43 PM   #33
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red heart shaped hot tub
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Old 12-08-2018, 07:21 AM   #34
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How's the bus doing now?
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Old 12-17-2018, 09:47 AM   #35
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got locked out of google account so I cant get a pic on.

Got back doors hung, working on getting sealing trim tied in and latches next. I also have most of the sliding ball sled welded up. Ill be able to pull the load up close to the axle and slide it back when turning tight.

Decided to re use bus bumper, moving it down a few inches to get clearance for trailer tongue. Kind of slow going with deer hunting and other distractions.
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Old 12-17-2018, 03:24 PM   #36
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dec16

back doors
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