XL Toterhome

johnforrest · 09-06-2018, 08:39 PM

So I'm starting to make the first few cuts and I realize I am learning a few things the hard way. Thought I might jot down some thoughts and help the next guy scratching his head about making a skoolie toterhome.

Just a warning, I am not a fit and finish kind of guy. And I consider this my warm up bus before I make my "good one"

If you're an old salt reading along and see me headed for the rapids feel free to yell out a warning.

Well my first decision was where to cut off the body, lots of ideas and I am still not sure but I found a seam behind the back wheel well. Its only taking out 4 of the 15 windows but it's where I am going to start.

I may change my mind but I like the white rubber floor. I cant justify all the work taking that out just to sand and paint over a little rust so it and the walls all stay intact for now.

I am also not reusing the back cap of the bus body. I want a door I can walk out and it needs to be extra wide to get big stuff loaded into the back cargo area of the body. Two doors totalling 50 to 55 inches, maybe wider.

I plan to try out several different spots for the ball. I dont pull super heavy trailer so I am going to try moving the balls back a bit rear of the axle. Wish me luck.

That's about all for today. I just finished cutting across the floor and half of one wall. I felt like I was cutting one of my kids jugulars, and I need a drink.

leadsled01 · 09-07-2018, 07:41 AM

Watching closely.

johnforrest · 09-07-2018, 08:59 AM

On the subject of hurting oneself working on our skoolies. I got lucky and found a diamond cutting wheel for my 6 inch angle grinder a day or two before I got my bus home. My bus is pretty rusty underneath and I'm working alone so cutting the bolts was my only way to get the seats out. That thin blade worked slick to slice the heads off. I see another post where a fella had the blade catch and shatter into his eye. This disk is a thin metal disk and I cut over 100 bolts off with only a few catches. The diamond wheel seems like it has less sparking and if I hit it right and only cut a small part of the bolt head I could get through a bolt in 10 15 seconds.

One thing to watch throwing a spark at the heaters. The top side of the heater is the air intake and that intake gets stuffed full of small fibers. it looks like a boy scouts fire starting dream find. If that tinder got started the foam seat would be next.

One other little check to make for everyone with underside storage boxes. When I went to remove my back box, I found out that the front side welds had all rusted away. That box is right behind the back tire and salt had sprayed up and sat on the top of that box and all the front side welds were gone. The back welds were the only thing keeping that box held in place level. I know all the rivets hold it too but as soon as I cut the back welds, that box tipped to the side and could of dragged on the ground if it had been loaded. Pole vaulting came to mind and I shuddered thinking about that wreak. On my IH's box there are 4 welds on the top of each end connecting the box to the floor joists. Rivets on the skirt are a good safety but check the welds to be sure.

johnforrest · 09-07-2018, 04:23 PM

If you know or know where to send me to see how to over ride the back door interlock. I have to unplug all the wiring going to the back to split off the back end. The bus wont start when I unplug the biggest set.

johnforrest · 09-07-2018, 08:12 PM

The back section of bus body I plan to take off is connected to the frame in six spots. two of them are up on top of the fuel tank. I wanted to wait till the body was off to take out the tank but I ended up doing it today.

The tank sits inside a 2x4 tube frame with 24 3/4 bolts attaching it to the frame. I hooked a cum along on the top side of the frame, down around the framework and back up on top of frame with second hook. Once I had all the nuts and bolts off, I lowered the while works down slowly onto some blocks, unhooked all the connection and set it all down the rest of the way. I put a temporary tank inside the cab till I get a big one mounted later. Sazalled the six bolts off and figured I was ready to pull the whole works off until I realized i couldn't restart the bus once I unhooked the driver side wiring harness. I've been looking at the thread c hasbeen has about rewiring the started but I don't really understand it all yet.

Thought about pulling the wiring with the switches all out but its a mess inside that back part of the body and they have the door switches going down to the bottom of the wall and up the very corner. Where the loom comes out there are 35 wires all together.

johnforrest · 09-08-2018, 11:24 AM

Ian somebody on you tube had a easy looking way to bypass the back door interlock on binder busses. It took me a while to understand it so I'll try explaining it to my understanding.

Your bus may be different but I think a bunch all work this way.

On my IH all the wiring in the back ends up being one wire back to the starting circuit. For me it was pink #58. Think of pink #58 as a ground wire and if any of the interlock switches are open that wire is not grounded.

There is a relay that uses this ground to complete the circuit from the key to the starter. You can find it by following the small wire back up from the starter.

So to jump the interlock disconnect pink #58 and replace it with another short wire that you need to connect to a good ground.

The buzzer is your problem to solve. Mine shut off when I disconnected the big harness from the rear lights.

johnforrest · 09-08-2018, 11:45 AM

Maybe the ugliest toterhome I've seen yet. Not sure if adding short bed is going to help? Maybe. Ill be cutting half of that frame off I think.

reedy · 09-08-2018, 12:38 PM

It ain't ugly it is custom. think positive

johnforrest · 09-09-2018, 06:44 PM

Stuck an old ball I had on just to see how trailer pulled with ball 5' behind the rear axle. I must say considering all the extra cab I have to work with I really like this set up. It looks goofy as all get out so we'll have to see what the DOT boys think of it. If it was a regular toter fashion I would need to take out 3 or 4 more windows.

I'm thinking a couple of semi fuel tanks saddle style and a set of steps and I'll be uptown.

I did notice that extra length helped swing the trailer around the corner a little and also made getting the trailer tongue kick out quicker to back up around a corner.

Well have to see how she acts with a little weight on the ball next.

johnforrest · 09-09-2018, 06:54 PM

1st time hooking up trailer

reedy · 09-09-2018, 07:27 PM

I had a cousin named Johnny Forrest Tassey I liked a bunch . Just a coincidence. You going to hang the saddles behind the bus body? Remember Water weighs 8. something pounds per gallon Diesel aint much lighter.

johnforrest · 09-09-2018, 07:39 PM

This was the tank guard, The tank is standing up in the back ground. Close to 6' tall. This was all under the bus behind the back axle, So I think I am really saving weight.

johnforrest · 09-10-2018, 09:59 AM

Just discovered the Skoolie map, so cool. Wondering why more people don't list themselves as a place to park? So to anyone keeping up with my project if you get this far consider yourself more than welcome to stop by for a visit or just a nice quiet place to stay for a few days. I am located north of interstate 80 about 20 miles. About the only tourist thing close are the Amana Colonies.

E mail me ahead of time, john4rest@aol.com

Ollie Hauler · 09-12-2018, 07:39 PM

I also built a toterhome,if you want check out my page maybe it will give you some ideas

johnforrest · 09-14-2018, 05:04 PM

Ollie, Ive looked at your bus. I like it alot.

Theres an Olliver 88 row crop for sale here. asking 3800. Its not real nice in my opinion. Are you at all interested? I took a few pics.

johnforrest · 09-14-2018, 05:11 PM

Getting ready to build a back door on the bus. Looking for ideas. As of now I plan to make a double door set up so I have 50 or 60 inches of width available to get in. Thinking about making a removable center post so i would normally just use one door most of the time.

o1marc · 09-14-2018, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnforrest

Getting ready to build a back door on the bus. Looking for ideas. As of now I plan to make a double door set up so I have 50 or 60 inches of width available to get in. Thinking about making a removable center post so i would normally just use one door most of the time.

My plan is to use 2 rear doors, giving an opening of 74". maybe add a lip on the second door that the first door will butt against on the vertical. Upper and lower lips of the bus keep the doors from entering inside. I may use a tractor trailer cam lock bar for closure. The original door post can be reused, just cut them top and bottom and move them to the new location.

magnakansas · 09-14-2018, 08:28 PM

back doors, I saw a skoolie that used the rear doors from a big rig kind of trailer... or maybe just all the hardware... hinges lock bars, the latch bits at the top and bottom in the center.... locked up the rear like a big trailer. hinges were far out enough doors opened more than 180 degrees,

I would think when not having a towed item, you are going to have to have some sort of mansfield bars on the rear, stop some one from driving under that hitch.

william

o1marc · 09-14-2018, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by magnakansas

back doors, I saw a skoolie that used the rear doors from a big rig kind of trailer... or maybe just all the hardware... hinges lock bars, the latch bits at the top and bottom in the center.... locked up the rear like a big trailer. hinges were far out enough doors opened more than 180 degrees,

I would think when not having a towed item, you are going to have to have some sort of mansfield bars on the rear, stop some one from driving under that hitch.

william

Good point on the wide hinge. Unless I get lucky I doubt the door I get will have the same hinges (or door handle), plus the existing hinges have the worst rust on the bus. They literally are peeling away in layers and have lost 1/8" on one. So all new hinges will be in the works, I'll consider wide hinges, though at 74" probably won't need that extra 2". I was surprised to see after I got my inside skin off the door hinges are bolted through the skin and a 1/8" thick strap welded to the inside frame. Also noted that no PB Blaster or heat or anything else would save the huge bolts, as soon as I put pressure on the wrench they sheared right off.

Ollie Hauler · 09-15-2018, 12:14 AM

3800 is high for a 88,I have a super 88 that I pull with and a 77 is my loader tractor,also have 2 Oliver 70s and a18-27 Oliver Hart Parr.

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