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Old 09-06-2018, 09:39 PM   #1
Almost There
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Watkins, Iowa
Posts: 82
Year: 2006
Coachwork: IH
Chassis: FE 300
Engine: DT 466
Rated Cap: 84
XL Toterhome

So I'm starting to make the first few cuts and I realize I am learning a few things the hard way. Thought I might jot down some thoughts and help the next guy scratching his head about making a skoolie toterhome.

Just a warning, I am not a fit and finish kind of guy. And I consider this my warm up bus before I make my "good one"

If you're an old salt reading along and see me headed for the rapids feel free to yell out a warning.

Well my first decision was where to cut off the body, lots of ideas and I am still not sure but I found a seam behind the back wheel well. Its only taking out 4 of the 15 windows but it's where I am going to start.

I may change my mind but I like the white rubber floor. I cant justify all the work taking that out just to sand and paint over a little rust so it and the walls all stay intact for now.

I am also not reusing the back cap of the bus body. I want a door I can walk out and it needs to be extra wide to get big stuff loaded into the back cargo area of the body. Two doors totalling 50 to 55 inches, maybe wider.

I plan to try out several different spots for the ball. I dont pull super heavy trailer so I am going to try moving the balls back a bit rear of the axle. Wish me luck.

That's about all for today. I just finished cutting across the floor and half of one wall. I felt like I was cutting one of my kids jugulars, and I need a drink.
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Old 09-07-2018, 08:41 AM   #2
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Cuyahoga Falls Ohio
Posts: 470
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Startrans
Chassis: Ford e-350 single wheel
Engine: 5.4 litre
Rated Cap: 12
Watching closely.
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Old 09-07-2018, 09:59 AM   #3
Almost There
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Watkins, Iowa
Posts: 82
Year: 2006
Coachwork: IH
Chassis: FE 300
Engine: DT 466
Rated Cap: 84
safety second?

On the subject of hurting oneself working on our skoolies. I got lucky and found a diamond cutting wheel for my 6 inch angle grinder a day or two before I got my bus home. My bus is pretty rusty underneath and I'm working alone so cutting the bolts was my only way to get the seats out. That thin blade worked slick to slice the heads off. I see another post where a fella had the blade catch and shatter into his eye. This disk is a thin metal disk and I cut over 100 bolts off with only a few catches. The diamond wheel seems like it has less sparking and if I hit it right and only cut a small part of the bolt head I could get through a bolt in 10 15 seconds.

One thing to watch throwing a spark at the heaters. The top side of the heater is the air intake and that intake gets stuffed full of small fibers. it looks like a boy scouts fire starting dream find. If that tinder got started the foam seat would be next.

One other little check to make for everyone with underside storage boxes. When I went to remove my back box, I found out that the front side welds had all rusted away. That box is right behind the back tire and salt had sprayed up and sat on the top of that box and all the front side welds were gone. The back welds were the only thing keeping that box held in place level. I know all the rivets hold it too but as soon as I cut the back welds, that box tipped to the side and could of dragged on the ground if it had been loaded. Pole vaulting came to mind and I shuddered thinking about that wreak. On my IH's box there are 4 welds on the top of each end connecting the box to the floor joists. Rivets on the skirt are a good safety but check the welds to be sure.
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Old 09-07-2018, 05:23 PM   #4
Almost There
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Watkins, Iowa
Posts: 82
Year: 2006
Coachwork: IH
Chassis: FE 300
Engine: DT 466
Rated Cap: 84
Help with International Interlock

If you know or know where to send me to see how to over ride the back door interlock. I have to unplug all the wiring going to the back to split off the back end. The bus wont start when I unplug the biggest set.
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Old 09-07-2018, 09:12 PM   #5
Almost There
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Watkins, Iowa
Posts: 82
Year: 2006
Coachwork: IH
Chassis: FE 300
Engine: DT 466
Rated Cap: 84
almost ready to split

The back section of bus body I plan to take off is connected to the frame in six spots. two of them are up on top of the fuel tank. I wanted to wait till the body was off to take out the tank but I ended up doing it today.

The tank sits inside a 2x4 tube frame with 24 3/4 bolts attaching it to the frame. I hooked a cum along on the top side of the frame, down around the framework and back up on top of frame with second hook. Once I had all the nuts and bolts off, I lowered the while works down slowly onto some blocks, unhooked all the connection and set it all down the rest of the way. I put a temporary tank inside the cab till I get a big one mounted later. Sazalled the six bolts off and figured I was ready to pull the whole works off until I realized i couldn't restart the bus once I unhooked the driver side wiring harness. I've been looking at the thread c hasbeen has about rewiring the started but I don't really understand it all yet.

Thought about pulling the wiring with the switches all out but its a mess inside that back part of the body and they have the door switches going down to the bottom of the wall and up the very corner. Where the loom comes out there are 35 wires all together.
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Old 09-08-2018, 12:24 PM   #6
Almost There
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Watkins, Iowa
Posts: 82
Year: 2006
Coachwork: IH
Chassis: FE 300
Engine: DT 466
Rated Cap: 84
Interlock...too easy?

Ian somebody on you tube had a easy looking way to bypass the back door interlock on binder busses. It took me a while to understand it so I'll try explaining it to my understanding.

Your bus may be different but I think a bunch all work this way.

On my IH all the wiring in the back ends up being one wire back to the starting circuit. For me it was pink #58. Think of pink #58 as a ground wire and if any of the interlock switches are open that wire is not grounded.

There is a relay that uses this ground to complete the circuit from the key to the starter. You can find it by following the small wire back up from the starter.

So to jump the interlock disconnect pink #58 and replace it with another short wire that you need to connect to a good ground.

The buzzer is your problem to solve. Mine shut off when I disconnected the big harness from the rear lights.
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Old 09-08-2018, 12:45 PM   #7
Almost There
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Watkins, Iowa
Posts: 82
Year: 2006
Coachwork: IH
Chassis: FE 300
Engine: DT 466
Rated Cap: 84
yuk

Maybe the ugliest toterhome I've seen yet. Not sure if adding short bed is going to help? Maybe. Ill be cutting half of that frame off I think.
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Old 09-08-2018, 01:38 PM   #8
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: TN.
Posts: 31
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B8000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 24
It ain't ugly it is custom. think positive
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Old 09-09-2018, 07:44 PM   #9
Almost There
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Watkins, Iowa
Posts: 82
Year: 2006
Coachwork: IH
Chassis: FE 300
Engine: DT 466
Rated Cap: 84
ball on

Stuck an old ball I had on just to see how trailer pulled with ball 5' behind the rear axle. I must say considering all the extra cab I have to work with I really like this set up. It looks goofy as all get out so we'll have to see what the DOT boys think of it. If it was a regular toter fashion I would need to take out 3 or 4 more windows.

I'm thinking a couple of semi fuel tanks saddle style and a set of steps and I'll be uptown.

I did notice that extra length helped swing the trailer around the corner a little and also made getting the trailer tongue kick out quicker to back up around a corner.

Well have to see how she acts with a little weight on the ball next.
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Old 09-09-2018, 07:54 PM   #10
Almost There
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Watkins, Iowa
Posts: 82
Year: 2006
Coachwork: IH
Chassis: FE 300
Engine: DT 466
Rated Cap: 84
trial

1st time hooking up trailer
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