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Old 08-08-2019, 09:36 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
. Maybe if I hold my breath long enough, the brain damage will let me get over the rounded corners. Might be cheaper even with the medical.


I would think twice about that....... My insurance company hiccuped and the bill for my one night in the hospital showed up in my mailbox..... $11,000....... I nearly had a heart attack.

When you say "mitered corner" do mean 90 degree corners?
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Old 08-08-2019, 12:31 PM   #22
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I would think twice about that....... My insurance company hiccuped and the bill for my one night in the hospital showed up in my mailbox..... $11,000....... I nearly had a heart attack.
I've given up on paying for my eyeball. One doctor charged $500 and saw me for literally 30 seconds. Phuck you!!

Quote:
When you say "mitered corner" do mean 90 degree corners?
Yup. House windows are square. RV windows are round. Why??? I know better than to use house windows but I might anyway in that I find some free windows and replace the glass with flat windshield glass. I suppose a decent glass shop would have flat tempered that could be cut up to whatever size you wanted too.
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Old 08-17-2019, 11:50 AM   #23
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I put in 8 fixed windows from bluebird 21"x22" and 5 sliders from mirage trailer 46"x22".
The sliders required a frame since I cut the hat channel.
I have tons of pics of the roof raise and window fabrication if you need something for reference.
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Old 08-17-2019, 01:08 PM   #24
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I thought someone would have mentioned it by now but I'll go ahead and chime in. The reason for rounded or radius corners on RV windows and sometimes also on doors is to prevent stress points which in turn can break the inner plane or panel. In other words, unlike your house, your RV or skoolie is mobile and as it travels it flexes a little. Mitered corners concentrate stress at those points which in turn can crack or even shatter the panes of glass they're holding. Rounded corners don't focus the stress and therefore prevent this occurrence. Now school bus bodies are more rigid than those of a stick-built RV (that's why we love them!) but they can still contort a little bit and this may even become more problematic with a roof raise. Regardless of the type of glass, I might anticipate that mitered corner window frames are going to prove a nuisance in the long run. I think the only reason original school bus windows don't tend to suffer from this is because they're essentially double framed - the glass pane is in a frame that is in turn inside a channel created by another frame. It is therefore isolated from body flex stresses. They're not airtight or energy efficient but they weren't designed to be which is why we're looking to replace them in the first place.
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Old 08-20-2019, 04:00 PM   #25
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Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
Your rib spacing is 36"? Normally it's 25-1/2".
I lied. Either I can't remember or I can't measure. Some days it's both. 35" on center and 33" in between. So, there goes the hack-less 36" windows.

Smaller ribs are 26 1/2" in between and 28" center.

There now it's in writing so I can find it again.
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Old 08-20-2019, 04:02 PM   #26
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,591
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by BROOT View Post
I put in 8 fixed windows from bluebird 21"x22" and 5 sliders from mirage trailer 46"x22".
The sliders required a frame since I cut the hat channel.
I have tons of pics of the roof raise and window fabrication if you need something for reference.
Yes, please. Link? Even if I hate it, it'll be something not to do. At this stage, that's just as valuable.
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Old 08-20-2019, 04:28 PM   #27
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,591
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sehnsucht View Post
I think the only reason original school bus windows don't tend to suffer from this is because they're essentially double framed - the glass pane is in a frame that is in turn inside a channel created by another frame. It is therefore isolated from body flex stresses. They're not airtight or energy efficient but they weren't designed to be which is why we're looking to replace them in the first place.
Excellent theory. I can believe it until I get to this part. The OEM windows in my bus were sitting on and sealed to sheet metal sills. I've tossed those but the gauge on those is NOT 15 gauge like the hat channels nor the header at the top. My handy dandy Hobart sheet metal gauge say 20 on the bottom. It is formed with a bunch of 90s so it's stronger than it looks. Header is 16 gauge. The sides of the double frame are the hat channels themselves. So what are you calling the second frame; the sill, header, and hats?

Now that aside how is it different in regular RV builds? I want to build a box frame out of 1"x2" rectangle tube to go around my windows. This will be a MUCH heavier second frame than the OEM version. The window will "float" on caulking or whatever. The flashing riveted or glued or whatever. That would work, yes?

In the pic I have one piece of rectangle tube and one angle iron only because I don't have more rectangle on hand. Imagine the angle as tube. Top an bottom span the ribs and welded in place. The upright tubing would be on both sides of the window (blue tape). Yes, no, maybe?

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