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Old 10-29-2019, 07:43 PM   #1
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A few questions regarding prepping the metal floor?!

My plan is to initially clean the metal floor of the bus. Which cleaning agent do you recommend I use?

Then I plan to fill the holes from the bus seats, etc using JB weld epoxy liquid or JB weld steel stick putty. Which of these do you think would work best? Or do you have any better suggestions? I'm going to cover all of the holes with pennies once I fill them.

Next, I plan to use a rust converter like Corroseal or Rust Converter Ultra followed by two layer of Rustoleum paint to complete the job. Is it necessary for me to use a Rustoleum primer prior to the paint or will the rust converter act as a primer as well?

Thank you for your help on my skoolie build journey!!
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Old 10-29-2019, 07:46 PM   #2
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The 2 part JB Putty will seal holes best.
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Old 10-29-2019, 08:36 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by AKTrainum View Post
My plan is to initially clean the metal floor of the bus. Which cleaning agent do you recommend I use?

Then I plan to fill the holes from the bus seats, etc using JB weld epoxy liquid or JB weld steel stick putty. Which of these do you think would work best? Or do you have any better suggestions? I'm going to cover all of the holes with pennies once I fill them.

Next, I plan to use a rust converter like Corroseal or Rust Converter Ultra followed by two layer of Rustoleum paint to complete the job. Is it necessary for me to use a Rustoleum primer prior to the paint or will the rust converter act as a primer as well?

Thank you for your help on my skoolie build journey!!

- I'd go with one coat over the primer before I'd go with 2 coats of finish with no primer - I plan on one coat of primer, 2 coats of finish - after the first coat of primer, you may be surprised of how far a gal of finish coat goes
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Old 10-29-2019, 08:40 PM   #4
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How many new threads on this subject are you going to start?
An easy search will reveal this question addressed a gazillion times.
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Old 10-29-2019, 09:28 PM   #5
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How many new threads on this subject are you going to start?
An easy search will reveal this question addressed a gazillion times.
I didn't realize that this thread posted twice (once initially and once after I edited the title). I've also never posted a question regarding whether or not rustoleum primer is needed and I feel like the threads I've read that address the subject are super unclear. I apologize if this inconvenienced you.
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Old 10-29-2019, 09:36 PM   #6
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Thank you all!
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Old 10-29-2019, 09:42 PM   #7
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The 2 part JB Putty will seal holes best.
This is the only putty kit I can find (1.) but there is a 2 part liquid kit (2.)??

1. https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8267...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

2. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1
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Old 10-29-2019, 10:10 PM   #8
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It's important to be efficient in posting, or the site might run out of pixels.
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Old 10-30-2019, 01:51 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by AKTrainum View Post
This is the only putty kit I can find (1.) but there is a 2 part liquid kit (2.)??

1. https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8267...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

2. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1
#1 is the one! It is a 2 part log that you tear or slice a sufficient piece off and "knead" the 2 parts (Gray & black), to a uniform color and stuff into the hole.
It should be the consistency of used chewing gum when ready to use and will harden to solid that can be ground or sanded down and primed/painted over if desired.
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Old 10-30-2019, 07:24 PM   #10
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#1 is the one! It is a 2 part log that you tear or slice a sufficient piece off and "knead" the 2 parts (Gray & black), to a uniform color and stuff into the hole.
It should be the consistency of used chewing gum when ready to use and will harden to solid that can be ground or sanded down and primed/painted over if desired.
I used SteelStick to fill the holes in the tracks of my windows from removing the riveted stops (they're a thing unique to NY buses since the windows aren't allowed to be lowered more than 4"). These were 1/4" holes in, say, 12 ga aluminum sheet. My test attempt placed just enough of the stuff to fill the hole flush, but after it hardened this popped out of the hole when I pressed on it. The only thing that worked was to really clean around the hole and scuff it with sandpaper, and then place a bigger gob in the hole and smooth the edges down on both sides, making essentially a SteelStick rivet.

I think the stuff would work on a floor, but maybe you'd have to prepare the hole first pretty thoroughly? The normal state of these holes is usually rusty and pitted, even on the clean buses.
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Old 10-30-2019, 09:08 PM   #11
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How many new threads on this subject are you going to start?
An easy search will reveal this question addressed a gazillion times.
Didn't you start a new thread a couple of weeks ago asking about "the pros and cons of a 12" roof raise"? Pretty sure I've seen about a gazillion threads on that subject.

Or is this more a case of 'do as I say. not as I do'?
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Old 11-11-2019, 12:02 PM   #12
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I used a combination of mechanical (angle grinder w/ wire wheels, orbital sander) & chemical means for floor prep. For both etching non-rusted galvanized as well as converting rusted sections, phosphoric acid works great. Google 'ospho'. Many threads in this forum regarding it as well. We used another name brand found at Lowes Hardware in the paint supply section, but it's the same thing... a 40-50% phosphoric acid solution. Best to clean/degrease the floor first, dry, then apply and keep it wet for 15 mins to a couple hours or more depending on the extent of rust. If you're planning on painting soon best to then rinse it off w/ water before the ospho can dry. Alternatively can use it as a rust preventative for extended periods before painting, but if you do, make sure to re-wet the surface again w/ ospho, let soak for a bit, & then rinse thoroughly, once again making sure the ospho doesn't dry before you do. You don't want residual acid left as it can negatively impact paint adhesion.

I just added info on our recent floor prep & paint our build thread (last page). If interested hit it up (in my signature). It expands a little bit on what I've written here.
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Old 11-18-2019, 08:04 PM   #13
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Hey guys, I'm new to posting to the forums (although I've used this site as a resource plenty already) and rather than starting a new thread I figured I'd add to this one.

My question is rather simple. Aside from the rust, how clean does my floor truly need to be? My bus floor seems to be made up of three different overlapping sheets of metal and at each of the creases where they join it has a putty like sealant (yellow in color).

I'm thinking it's necessary to remove this to be able to effectively prime it, and then to replace it with a similar sealant/caulk.

If someone could point me in the right direction that would be great. I can add images if necessary, but I'm posting this via mobile at the moment.
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Old 11-18-2019, 08:59 PM   #14
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Hey guys, I'm new to posting to the forums (although I've used this site as a resource plenty already) and rather than starting a new thread I figured I'd add to this one.

My question is rather simple. Aside from the rust, how clean does my floor truly need to be? My bus floor seems to be made up of three different overlapping sheets of metal and at each of the creases where they join it has a putty like sealant (yellow in color).

I'm thinking it's necessary to remove this to be able to effectively prime it, and then to replace it with a similar sealant/caulk.

If someone could point me in the right direction that would be great. I can add images if necessary, but I'm posting this via mobile at the moment.
Go to the UserCP and fill out your profile with location and bus info. Makes it easier to address your questions.
If it's like most buses, the floor is made up of prebent panels that butt up against each other, not overlapped. Leave the sealer there when you rust convert, prime and paint. You can remove it and replace if you want.
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Old 11-18-2019, 09:20 PM   #15
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Go to the UserCP and fill out your profile with location and bus info. Makes it easier to address your questions.
If it's like most buses, the floor is made up of prebent panels that butt up against each other, not overlapped. Leave the sealer there when you rust convert, prime and paint. You can remove it and replace if you want.
Made the updates. And you're right, pre-bent and abutt each other. I had begun removing some of it but decided to hold off. Questioning whether it's worth the time/effort to remove and reseal all those creases.
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Old 11-18-2019, 09:31 PM   #16
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Made the updates. And you're right, pre-bent and abutt each other. I had begun removing some of it but decided to hold off. Questioning whether it's worth the time/effort to remove and reseal all those creases.
You're right down the road from me neighbor.
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