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Old 07-19-2019, 05:15 PM   #1
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Advice on recessed license plate box

The license-plate holding area on the back of my bus is completely rusted out (by completely I mean there's about a one foot by one foot hole where the license plate used to be mounted). I'm going to repair this by riveting a sheet over it, but I can't reproduce the original slightly recessed portion that holds the license plate.

Instead I want to cut an opening and mount something like this frenched steel license plate box: https://www.ebay.com/i/183117167652?ul_noapp=true

Problem is I'm not up to welding sheet metal like this (which I think is how these are generally attached) so I was wondering if anyone has ever seen a box like this that has flanges on the front, such that this box could be riveted into the hole instead of welding. I have a sheet metal brake so I could make my own flanges and rivet them to the box and to my replacement sheet, but I'd rather have one that came with the flanges already.

Also, has anyone seen one of these boxes with four rivnuts installed instead of just two? There is a frame that includes a light that I was planning to use to mount the license plate, but it would be more solid with four mounting holes instead of two.

Or I'm open to better ways entirely of handling this.
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Old 07-19-2019, 05:31 PM   #2
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Is your door thick enough, 2 layers, to cut a hole through the front layer and rivet it to the back skin?
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Old 07-19-2019, 05:42 PM   #3
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What are the local laws regarding plate placement?
Chances are, on the other side, you could mount the tag on the "proper" indent's twin.
May have to swap the light fixtures, so the plate is illuminated whilst running your lights.
Maybe find a super-splendiferous adhesive to glue nuts to bolt thru, if'n your comfort interval doesn't include welding on sheet metal.
Mine doesn't, hence my solution's origins...
If not doable, bumper-mounted should be acceptable, provided an extra tag light is provided.
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Old 07-19-2019, 06:00 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
Is your door thick enough, 2 layers, to cut a hole through the front layer and rivet it to the back skin?
Yes, but I'm not sure exactly how I would handle running wires for the light in that situation. I'd have to run them through one of the hinges in some way. I'm also afraid of touching my door again now that it's basically done except for painting.
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Old 07-19-2019, 06:02 PM   #5
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Yes, but I'm not sure exactly how I would handle running wires for the light in that situation. I'd have to run them through one of the hinges in some way. I'm also afraid of touching my door again now that it's basically done except for painting.
When I moved my tail lights into the door I drilled holes in the jam and door to run wires in corrugated tube with grommets.
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Old 07-19-2019, 06:03 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by HazMatt View Post
What are the local laws regarding plate placement?
Chances are, on the other side, you could mount the tag on the "proper" indent's twin.
May have to swap the light fixtures, so the plate is illuminated whilst running your lights.
Maybe find a super-splendiferous adhesive to glue nuts to bolt thru, if'n your comfort interval doesn't include welding on sheet metal.
Mine doesn't, hence my solution's origins...
If not doable, bumper-mounted should be acceptable, provided an extra tag light is provided.
Since my bus is in the shop now for a few days at least, it may be time to break out my top-quality Metal Man welder and start practicing on sheet. Kinda wish it wasn't going to be 100 this weekend.
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Old 07-19-2019, 06:49 PM   #7
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