Air Idea

phillip266 · 01-08-2005, 09:57 AM

I was looking at my bus the air tank looked like it was prety good size i had a idea tell me if you think it will work.
I was looking at puting a tap so where on the tank or line near it
so that i could have air power on the road side like in case it had a Flat something i hope that dont happen but just in case i try to be ready for things in case thay do
anyone done this or is thire resions you cant do it
thanks any help i will be greatfull for

Steve · 01-08-2005, 12:43 PM

Yes there are many people have a tee in their air line for utilities.

lapeer20m · 01-08-2005, 03:30 PM

That's one of the big advantages to having air brakes. I just used an air cut off wheel powered my by skoolies air system the other day. I also use the air to open and close my front door, as well as the flaps that surround the jacuzzi.

One thing you'll notice is that the a/c on your bus doesn't produce much cfm, unless the engine is really revved up. My compressor spins at about half engine speed. Since the engine already idles about 600 rpm's, it takes a long time to create pressure at idle.

I've put air in skoolie tires, car tires, ran air tools and launched potato's from my pumatic potato launcher with the air supply from my bus.

It's been recomended that you install an inline filter to help keep any of the gunk from your air system from entering the air tools/lines.

You can easily install a "T" into one of your air tanks using standard pipe threaded connectors. Another advantage is that if your bus won't start, and you absolutely had to move it, you can use a compressed air supply to charge the brakes on your bus.

Jarlaxle · 01-08-2005, 06:09 PM

I plan to use a 12V ARB or Currie air compressor on my conversion (hydraulic brakes). Onboard compressed air is a wonderful thing.

With the stock compressor, I suggest a fast-idle switch to spin the engine to ~1400RPM for faster tank filling.

lapeer20m · 01-08-2005, 09:27 PM

I use an alluminum stick to press down on the accelerator for high idle mode.

shhhhhhhhhhh......Don't tell anybody, but I also use the same stick for "cruise control" while driving down the expressway. It's easily removed from the accelerator by tapping it with my foot, or by removing it with my hand.

The bus only cruises at a max speed of 57mph on flat ground, and that's on a good day! The throttle return spring is really stiff, my foot gets tired of pushing on the pedal after a half hour or so.

Jarlaxle · 01-08-2005, 11:25 PM

Dang...either you need an OD tranny, or you need a SERIOUS power upgrade! 57MPH around here will get you run over.

Firearm · 01-09-2005, 01:26 PM

It's all in the gearing of the rear-end.

lapeer20m · 01-09-2005, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Firearm

It's all in the gearing of the rear-end.

Actually, i'm not convinced that the motor/trans has enough power to go any faster, even with a different rear end. A manual transmission would certianly help get more power to the road. The 6.6 liter ford is one of the wimpyest engines you can get in a skoolie, but it lasts and lasts.

How fast does your full size skoolie go?

Jarlaxle · 01-09-2005, 09:17 PM

I backed out just above 75.

If you have an AT545...well, that's your culprit right there.

phillip266 · 01-11-2005, 07:53 PM

thats a great idea about the air cutoff tool one good thing about my new bus is that it hit 120 pis in the tanks quick in like 3 min from start up max the compreser was rebuilt at the same time as the motor

and with only 20k miles on it should laste me a long while.

lapeer20m · 01-11-2005, 08:18 PM

a cheap although rather labor intensive idea for those that do not have air brakes: You could go to the scrap yard and buy a compressor from a truck or bus that had air. It would be simple enough to fabricate a bracket to mount the compressor to your engine. My bus has one or two extra pulleys for accessories, hopefully you'rs is the same.

The most difficult part of the puzzle is the fact that most compressors require full pressure oil lubrication, and engine coolant to keep itself from overheating. The compressor utilizes oil and coolant from the engine. It's not too complicated if you're realatively handy.

I bought a compressor in perfect working order for $10 bucks.

Then you can run air tools or whatever you want.
*note: I'm not suggesting changing your brakes from hydrolic to air.

phillip266 · 01-11-2005, 08:37 PM

one thing that got me thinking is what you sad about front door how did you rig that up?
was also woundering does your air bleed down when your bus has been off for a few hours like say the next morning after a trip resion i ask is mine does.

Jarlaxle · 01-11-2005, 09:11 PM

Quote:

a cheap although rather labor intensive idea for those that do not have air brakes: You could go to the scrap yard and buy a compressor from a truck or bus that had air. It would be simple enough to fabricate a bracket to mount the compressor to your engine. My bus has one or two extra pulleys for accessories, hopefully you'rs is the same.

An easier way would be with an electric compressor. Currie & ARB (also sold as Old Man Emu) make reliable, rugged, continuous-duty 150psi compressors that will (with a tank) run air tools. I'm planning a Currie compressor.

These are durable enough that the military uses them.

lapeer20m · 01-12-2005, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jarlaxle

Quote:

An easier way would be with an electric compressor. Currie & ARB (also sold as Old Man Emu)

EAsier yes, cheaper...NO.

Anyhow...Yes, the air pressure in my bus is pretty much gone in 24 hours or less. That's normal with most vehicles with air brakes. How fast is too fast to be loosing air when parked? That's a discussion for another topic. Even new trucks loose most of their air in a day. Some vehicles keep air for a week or longer, it just depends.

The front door on my bus was pretty simple to rig up. Basically, i replaced the stock bar that opens the door with a pair of air cylinders i got for free from some UAW employee. I isolated the air circuit for the door with a check valve that allows air from the bus system to feed the door, but the air from the door cannot leak back into the bus system. Then i installed a cheap 12 volt air compressor (less than 20 bucks) and a pressure switch that will keep the door system up to pressure and thus keep the frond door secured with a minimal amount of electricity. The compressor runs for a few seconds every 4 or 5 minutes. I turn the compressor off if the bus will be parked for more than a week to keep from draining the battery. Where i live, we dont' even lock our house doors, so leaving the bus unsecured at home is not a big deal. I conected the air cylinders to some electric solenoid valves that are operated with a remote keyless entry setup. I use the remotely operated door for the impression it makes more than I do for security.

elkoskoolie · 02-05-2005, 04:55 PM

Another alternative is to use an Air Conditioning compressor- the piston types found in many pick-ups (I think they're called Worthington??) work great. Filter on the intake, pressure to a tank, add a pressure regulated on-off switch (my 120 volt version works fine), a relief valve and you're in business. Just check the oil level periodically- I believe they are an oil in sump type, but some may also rely on lubricity of the original freon. The GM rotary style compressors fry from lack of lubrication too easily- I think they expel the oil with the compressed air. This set-up is is a staple with the serious 4x4 crowd.

Jarlaxle · 02-05-2005, 10:04 PM

An A/C compressor can be converted (I used one from a Wagoneer on my old Jeep J-20), but won't hold up to long-term, continuous use pumping air. I considered that for my bus, but will go with a 12V compressor instead.

lapeer20m · 02-05-2005, 10:42 PM

a/c compressors are very impressive indeed when it comes to the volume of air they generate, but as you said, they don't hold up long term.

I've been told the reason is that lubrication for the compressor comes from the freon under normal circumstances. Perhaps an oil supply that could drip into the inlet would help...i don't know.

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