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Old 05-02-2017, 12:16 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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All set to buy!

I have finally found a shorter blue bird flat nose bus and I started it up today.

IMG_7612.JPG

Poor picture I know but it's an 8 window, 48 passenger 2001 blue bird.
5.9 24v Cummings

I plan on gutting the bus and using it as a camper.

Any last advice? Tomorrow morning I am going to do the final test drive. The gas pedal was a little sticky and also the service engine soon light is on the dash.

I'll have to drive it about 200mi home, crossing my fingers.

Thanks



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Old 05-02-2017, 01:00 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalcypher View Post
I have finally found a shorter blue bird flat nose bus and I started it up today.

Attachment 13511

Poor picture I know but it's an 8 window, 48 passenger 2001 blue bird.
5.9 24v Cummings

I plan on gutting the bus and using it as a camper.

Any last advice? Tomorrow morning I am going to do the final test drive. The gas pedal was a little sticky and also the service engine soon light is on the dash.

I'll have to drive it about 200mi home, crossing my fingers.

Thanks



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If the battery was dead, it will throw the service engine light.
Good luck and safe travels!

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Old 05-02-2017, 10:15 AM   #3
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Congrats

That bus looks kind of familiar.
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Old 05-02-2017, 11:55 AM   #4
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Does the "code 53" block affect skoolies? I love the cummins 5.9 but have read all about the tuppy block.had one in a truck once...never had any problems with it though.
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Old 05-02-2017, 12:36 PM   #5
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Does the "code 53" block affect skoolies? I love the cummins 5.9 but have read all about the tuppy block.had one in a truck once...never had any problems with it though.
I would imagine it could. I hadn't heard it was a Dodge only thing. most of the Skoolie Cummins had a different front cover to allow for an extra gear in the timing case for the air compressor, but I don't think that would make a difference. All the blocks are the same I think. On a side note, they kept producing motors with the Bosch vp44 injection pump in med duty 5.9 engines for up to 5 years after Dodge went to common rail injection.
And the research I have done has the medium duty applications having different hp and torque ratings than the Dodge of the same years (usually higher)


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Old 05-02-2017, 02:39 PM   #6
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I have a 1998 Tc2000 and My throttle cable was also a little sticky. You will probably have to replace it to solve the problem. Its a little tricky but doable. As the mechanism under the gas pedal is more complicated than you would expect, and you have to bend yourself into a pretzel to reach everything. I managed it though.

Bill
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Old 05-03-2017, 08:25 PM   #7
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Well the bus is mine, we are on the road now.

Had to stop once bc I lost power, the battery was fried, swollen smoking and leaking. Road crew installed a new one and we were on our way, now it seems this one is about to blow.

Please help. I have to drive about 2 more hours home and the voltage + amperage meters are both way too high while driving.

Could be a voltage regulator issue? Any tips?


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Old 05-03-2017, 08:26 PM   #8
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Well the bus is mine, we are on the road now.

Had to stop once bc I lost power, the battery was fried, swollen smoking and leaking. Road crew installed a new one and we were on our way, now it seems this one is about to blow.

Please help. I have to drive about 2 more hours home and the voltage + amperage meters are both way too high while driving.

Could be a voltage regulator issue?


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Old 05-03-2017, 08:32 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalcypher View Post
Well the bus is mine, we are on the road now.

Had to stop once bc I lost power, the battery was fried, swollen smoking and leaking. Road crew installed a new one and we were on our way, now it seems this one is about to blow.

Please help. I have to drive about 2 more hours home and the voltage + amperage meters are both way too high while driving.

Could be a voltage regulator issue?


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It seems it is overcharging. Be careful, it could very well blow.
I think a regulator issue is a good assumption.
Where are you? Never know a skoolie could be near by to render assistance.

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Old 05-03-2017, 08:33 PM   #10
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Right outside Bethlehem PA on 78. Any ideas for how to keep moving home?


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Old 05-03-2017, 08:43 PM   #11
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Right outside Bethlehem PA on 78. Any ideas for how to keep moving home?


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I have never dealt with that issue. I am unsure.
I am googling right now

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Old 05-03-2017, 08:45 PM   #12
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Right outside Bethlehem PA on 78. Any ideas for how to keep moving home?


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It may be possible to disconnect the alternator and continue on battery power to a safe exit, if it isn't already fried. It is probably the voltage regulator.
That's what I could glean quickly

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Old 05-03-2017, 08:47 PM   #13
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It may be possible to disconnect the alternator and continue on battery power to a safe exit, if it isn't already fried. It is probably the voltage regulator.
That's what I could glean quickly

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My engineering friend and I are considering just that.

Thanks for searching. I'll let you know how it goes.


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Old 05-03-2017, 08:47 PM   #14
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Also, if you are charging at higher than 14.8v then something is absolutely wrong

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Old 05-03-2017, 08:58 PM   #15
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you can help to drop the voltage a bit by turning on every switch in the bus... the A/C, the heater fans, the lights, mirror heat, often when an alrternator heats up its voltage level will drop.. i would defimnitely be checking the voltage to see what output you are getting.

-Christopher
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Old 05-03-2017, 09:06 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
you can help to drop the voltage a bit by turning on every switch in the bus... the A/C, the heater fans, the lights, mirror heat, often when an alrternator heats up its voltage level will drop.. i would defimnitely be checking the voltage to see what output you are getting.

-Christopher


Going to try that now, the volt meter on the dash reads 12 when the bus is off and the key is on.

Shoots up to 16/18v when I start the engine

Any other ideas?


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Old 05-03-2017, 09:09 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by kalcypher View Post
Going to try that now, the volt meter on the dash reads 12 when the bus is off and the key is on.

Shoots up to 16/18v when I start the engine

Any other ideas?


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It is definitely overcharging!
I am pretty sure the charge controller is in the alternator, so a new alternator will need to be put in.

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Old 05-04-2017, 12:55 AM   #18
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I just posted in your other thread and then saw this one. Before I realized both threads were yours I was like "wow, what're the chances??" Haha
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Old 05-04-2017, 12:56 AM   #19
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How are you making out?

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Old 05-04-2017, 01:02 AM   #20
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100 miles closer! Alternator unplugged works like a charm.

Reconnecting now at a truck stop to charge a little before the last 75 miles


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