Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 08-16-2019, 02:29 PM   #1
Skoolie
 
farok's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 233
Year: 2003
Chassis: Chevy cut-away 6-window shortie
Engine: 6.0L Gasser
Alternate means to attach ceiling

I'm trying to limit the amount of height I sacrifice when I install the ceiling, as I'm 6'1" and the ribs are 6'2" off my floor. With shoes if I stand upright, I'm brushing the roof ribs. I'd rather not attach the ceiling directly to the ribs (I'd need about twice the number of panels due to how I'd have to cut to fit), and that still wouldn't solve the issue of attaching one planned wall that will be about 10" from the closest rib.

My thought is to use 2x3s or 2x4s running perpendicular between the existing ribs as stringers, attached to the ribs with pocket screws so I don't end up any lower than the ribs. Can anyone think of a good reason why this would be a bad idea? This gets my ceiling as high as possible and allows me something to attach my walls and ceiling to, regardless of whether there is a rib where I need one or not.

Chris
__________________
My build thread: http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f27/fi...ild-25804.html
farok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2019, 02:37 PM   #2
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Chattanooga Tn
Posts: 32
Year: 1980
Coachwork: Blue bird
Chassis: Chevy254
Engine: Chevy 350 Allison At543
Rated Cap: 66
Attached walls

I did my walls 1/2 sanded plywood with a 1-1/8 gap to allow air flow all the way around which also allows me to run wire cords plumbing pipes etc through the gap. I used toilet partition brackets
Attached Images
File Type: jpg E7BDC065-155C-442C-98DE-54383B53B107.jpg (109.0 KB, 11 views)
Mista Bus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2019, 03:05 PM   #3
Skoolie
 
farok's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 233
Year: 2003
Chassis: Chevy cut-away 6-window shortie
Engine: 6.0L Gasser
Looks good, and makes a lot of sense, especially for airflow!

However, I should have stated that I've already removed my metal ceiling panels to remove old insulation and install new, so I don't have the old metal ceiling to attach to, just the ribs.

Chris
__________________
My build thread: http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f27/fi...ild-25804.html
farok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2019, 06:59 PM   #4
Bus Nut
 
plfking's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: N.C.
Posts: 825
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by farok View Post
I'm trying to limit the amount of height I sacrifice when I install the ceiling, as I'm 6'1" and the ribs are 6'2" off my floor. With shoes if I stand upright, I'm brushing the roof ribs. I'd rather not attach the ceiling directly to the ribs (I'd need about twice the number of panels due to how I'd have to cut to fit), and that still wouldn't solve the issue of attaching one planned wall that will be about 10" from the closest rib.

My thought is to use 2x3s or 2x4s running perpendicular between the existing ribs as stringers, attached to the ribs with pocket screws so I don't end up any lower than the ribs. Can anyone think of a good reason why this would be a bad idea? This gets my ceiling as high as possible and allows me something to attach my walls and ceiling to, regardless of whether there is a rib where I need one or not.

Chris
I think it will work fine......same concept as attaching wood strips along the ribs, although not quite as strong.....but you're only supporting a ceiling.

Are you going to leave the ribs uncovered?
__________________
Don

The Busted Flush
plfking is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2019, 10:23 PM   #5
Skoolie
 
farok's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 233
Year: 2003
Chassis: Chevy cut-away 6-window shortie
Engine: 6.0L Gasser
Thanks! I was thinking of putting thin foam between the ribs and ceiling - there will be maybe a 1/4" gap, if that. Something like this:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dow-STYROFO...-ft-L/50071519

Chris
__________________
My build thread: http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f27/fi...ild-25804.html
farok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2019, 11:07 PM   #6
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 796
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by farok View Post
Thanks! I was thinking of putting thin foam between the ribs and ceiling - there will be maybe a 1/4" gap, if that. Something like this:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dow-STYROFO...-ft-L/50071519

Chris
That product should produce a thermo break, but adds no insulation. It does state it is R-0 afterall.
Native is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2019, 06:23 AM   #7
Skoolie
 
farok's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 233
Year: 2003
Chassis: Chevy cut-away 6-window shortie
Engine: 6.0L Gasser
Quote:
Originally Posted by Native View Post
That product should produce a thermo break, but adds no insulation. It does state it is R-0 afterall.
Understood. I'm planning to put foam board in-between the ribs wherever I don't have stringers taking up the space. This is just a break.

Thanks all for the insights!

Chris
__________________
My build thread: http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f27/fi...ild-25804.html
farok is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:44 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.