Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 05-15-2019, 08:57 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Central Connecticut
Posts: 33
Year: 1992
Coachwork: international
Chassis: Front engine
Engine: mechanical DT466
Rated Cap: 71+
Angle grinding for rivets and rust

Hi guys,
I recently picked up a 4 1/2 angle grinder. Any advice on what type of discs (what grit) were useful for everyone? I plan on grinding off the bolts holding the seats down and possibly going at the rivets with it (if the air chisel doesn't work). What types are good for cutting ? Sanding down rust? Any things to avoid when grinding? Im brand new.
Thanks as always
Thetireddad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2019, 09:07 PM   #2
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 8,292
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Cut off wheels are usually 1/6" +/- thin and use the edge for cutting. The grinder wheel is usually much thicker and use the face to remove metal from surfaces. You don't want to use cut off wheels as grinder wheels using the face, they can explode with injury causing force. PPE for either. If I was using the angle grinder to remove seat bolts I would use cut off wheels and cut through the bottom of the bolt head. I highly recommend buying the discs in 10 packs, multiple packs. They're not real expensive that way, and cutting bolts will eat them pretty fast.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg imagerequest.jpg (228.8 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg Grinding_Wheel_10_Pack__00431.1518107547.1280.1280.jpg (87.2 KB, 2 views)
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2019, 09:13 PM   #3
Bus Nut
 
Rovobay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Damascus, OR
Posts: 606
Year: 2004
Chassis: International
Engine: T444e w/ 2000 Allison Trans
Rated Cap: 35
https://www.amazon.com/Bionic-Shield...ateway&sr=8-10

safety first.....

cutoff wheels work but are fragile to work with especially if you have never used an angle grinder before.

griding wheels are thick and work. a flapper disc is also great.

https://www.amazon.com/WORKPRO-20-pa...gateway&sr=8-4
__________________
My Build: http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/sk...doo-22140.html

Follow our build on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/skoolie_doo/
Rovobay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2019, 09:15 PM   #4
Bus Crazy
 
musigenesis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 1,390
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thetireddad View Post
Hi guys,
I recently picked up a 4 1/2 angle grinder. Any advice on what type of discs (what grit) were useful for everyone? I plan on grinding off the bolts holding the seats down and possibly going at the rivets with it (if the air chisel doesn't work). What types are good for cutting ? Sanding down rust? Any things to avoid when grinding? Im brand new.
Thanks as always
Walter zip wheels: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HPRS1OM are great for cutting, they last longer and you can cut easier and straighter than the ones at the big box store like DeWalt etc. Even this 10-pack will probably be more than you need, but it never hurts to have extras lying around.

Trying to remove rivets with an angle grinder is probably a dead end. It takes too much time and effort per rivet and there are too many rivets.
musigenesis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2019, 09:42 PM   #5
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 19,079
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
Walter zip wheels: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HPRS1OM are great for cutting, they last longer and you can cut easier and straighter than the ones at the big box store like DeWalt etc. Even this 10-pack will probably be more than you need, but it never hurts to have extras lying around.

Trying to remove rivets with an angle grinder is probably a dead end. It takes too much time and effort per rivet and there are too many rivets.
Not true. Some of the rivets HAVE to be ground off.
__________________
.
Roll Your Own Build Thread
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2019, 03:08 AM   #6
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Western Oregon
Posts: 532
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue-Bird
Chassis: TC RE 3408
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12V Mechanical/Allison MT643
Rated Cap: Blue-Bird says 72 pass.
I am not finished yet, but I have been pulling rivets out. First, I use a punch to drive the mandrel out, Although driving the mandrel out is not really necessary with aluminum rivets, it is necessary with the larger steel rivets.

The first time I attempted to cut a rivet head off with my cold chisel I realized it would be much easier and quicker to raise the rivet just enough to get something to pry with underneath the head than it would be to cut it. So I never cut a single rivet. At first I tried a claw hammer, but I switched. Now after the mandrel is out I hold the crooked end of my little pry bar that has a sharp v-notch next to the rivet head and tap the prybar with my hammer to drive the prybar under the head of the rivet. I often have to do this from 2 or more directions before I can get the head up just a bit, but after I can get the prybar all the way under the rivet, I just pry the rivet out.

It takes a lot more time to describe this process than it does to do it. There are some rivets that are much more difficult, but most of the rivets come out easily in 20 to 30 seconds. My method is still evolving as I finish up with the rivets in the walls and start on the ceiling. I have taken some pics but have not yet figured out how or where to post them. Guess I will do that soon.
gs1949 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2019, 10:15 PM   #7
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 5,656
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
I had to remove a lot of bucked rivets and on most of them the best method turned out to be grinding the head off with a flap disc and then punching the body out with a punch.

Regarding cutoff wheels. I had some Norton discs on the shelf and started working on my bus with them. Then I bought some from Harbor Freight. I can look at cuts I made and tell you which disc I used on that cut. The Norton discs cut easier and straighter than the HF discs. They also lasted longer.
PNW_Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2019, 05:36 PM   #8
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Western Oregon
Posts: 532
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue-Bird
Chassis: TC RE 3408
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12V Mechanical/Allison MT643
Rated Cap: Blue-Bird says 72 pass.
I've never tried flap discs. What brand and grit number did you find best for removing rivets?
gs1949 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2019, 05:39 PM   #9
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 5,656
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by gs1949 View Post
I've never tried flap discs. What brand and grit number did you find best for removing rivets?
Norton 60 grit.
PNW_Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2019, 05:43 PM   #10
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Western Oregon
Posts: 532
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue-Bird
Chassis: TC RE 3408
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12V Mechanical/Allison MT643
Rated Cap: Blue-Bird says 72 pass.
Thanks for the quick response.
gs1949 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2019, 05:52 PM   #11
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 5,656
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by gs1949 View Post
Thanks for the quick response.


Too much time on my hands today?
PNW_Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2019, 05:56 PM   #12
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Western Oregon
Posts: 532
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue-Bird
Chassis: TC RE 3408
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12V Mechanical/Allison MT643
Rated Cap: Blue-Bird says 72 pass.
I have days like that, but not so much lately since I started this bus project.
gs1949 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2019, 09:03 PM   #13
Bus Nut
 
plfking's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: N.C.
Posts: 877
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 34
This is how I did mine.....I have yet to see a quicker or easier way. Had all the ceiling and wall panels out of my 6 window in less than 2 hours.

__________________
Don

The Busted Flush
plfking is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2019, 09:28 PM   #14
Bus Crazy
 
Sleddgracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,262
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
Quote:
Originally Posted by plfking View Post
This is how I did mine.....I have yet to see a quicker or easier way. Had all the ceiling and wall panels out of my 6 window in less than 2 hours.



good post - thanks
Sleddgracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2019, 10:31 PM   #15
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 5,656
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by plfking View Post
This is how I did mine.....I have yet to see a quicker or easier way. Had all the ceiling and wall panels out of my 6 window in less than 2 hours.

I used the same method on the interior pop rivets and it worked great. Not so we'll when I got to the bucked rivets
PNW_Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2019, 12:27 AM   #16
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 734
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: Minotour
Engine: Chevy Express 3500 6.6l
Hi, yes, safety first! When youre cutting and grinding Id recommend goggles or at least wrap around safety glasses. Getting metal filings stuck in your eye is no fun.

Ive used those 5 cut off wheels on an angle grinder, but when I have a big job I use a metal cutting blade in a circular saw. Same material, but much more robust.
Danjo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2019, 02:22 AM   #17
Bus Crazy
 
Sleddgracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,262
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danjo View Post
Hi, yes, safety first! When youre cutting and grinding Id recommend goggles or at least wrap around safety glasses. Getting metal filings stuck in your eye is no fun.

Ive used those 5 cut off wheels on an angle grinder, but when I have a big job I use a metal cutting blade in a circular saw. Same material, but much more robust.


accuracy is made easy when using a metal cutting blade in a circular saw by the use of a simple home made miter box with guides for the saw - unless you are lucky enough to have a metal cut off saw
Sleddgracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
angle grinder, grot, rivets, rust, sanding

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:05 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×