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Old 08-03-2016, 01:49 PM   #11
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this is the best method make sure the cardboard stays square
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Old 08-03-2016, 02:17 PM   #12
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This is link from vonslatt--he used the poster board/marker method showing how to get all the little dips and dings. He has other really good ideas--I especially like reversing the windows which I am going to try on my bus.
School Bus Conversion - Framing the Bus
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Old 08-03-2016, 02:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheryl_ann44 View Post
This is link from vonslatt--he used the poster board/marker method showing how to get all the little dips and dings. He has other really good ideas--I especially like reversing the windows which I am going to try on my bus.
School Bus Conversion - Framing the Bus
That's way to complicated, roaches suggestion works well, I just use a large magic marker on it's side.
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Old 08-03-2016, 03:02 PM   #14
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I'll be tracing the upper rear panel that I have removed:
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Old 08-03-2016, 04:18 PM   #15
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Before you cut your panels, you might want to make sure the curve is the same. On mine the curve is different in different locations, even from side to side.
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Old 08-03-2016, 05:33 PM   #16
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Another method is to cut the bus in half at the spot you want to match, hold your board up to the cut edge, trace the curve directly, then weld the bus back together. This method gives an extremely accurate match.
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Old 08-03-2016, 05:55 PM   #17
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I went with the cardboard template option and made the template for my biggest/widest wall first and after that I was able to cut a smaller section out of it to match my overhead bin pieces and tape it back in or remove it as needed.
My full height walls were a little tricky until I got my template right.
My outside walls lean out a little to the bottom of the windows and then lean back in a little bit more than they leaned out up to the busway/cable tray/wire run molding and then the curved ceiling. So a full length template got me started but ended up only needing the top piece from midway of the windows up.
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Old 08-03-2016, 06:10 PM   #18
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You guys all have it SO easy, what with flat walls and all. My '46 is all curves. The sidewalls flare out from the floor about an inch at the window bottoms then back in at the top. Also makes fitting a door a real nightmare. And the rear quarters...they are all compound curves. I need to get with an old school wooden boat builder to figure those out!

Or maybe a cooper (wooden barrel maker).
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Old 08-03-2016, 08:44 PM   #19
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Keep in mind when tracing with a spacer like the block of wood that if you're copying anything but a straight line, then you're actually going to get a reduced copy. Envision using the spacer block to trace inside a circle -- the copied circle, while being a perfect match to the original shape, will be smaller by the thickness of the block plus half the thickness of the pencil/pen/marker.

I like to use the block method until my template is "pretty close" and then remove the block and use the pencil alone, perhaps even held so that the tapered/sharpened tip instead of the whole body runs on the tracing surface. The nearer the line is drawn to the surface you're tracing, the less the shrinking effect will be.
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Old 08-03-2016, 09:45 PM   #20
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nice explanation family wagon. I was going to mention something but could not find the right words. The circle envisioning is excellent.

Later J
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