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Old 09-29-2016, 11:02 AM   #1
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Attaching metal to cover hatch

What gauge sheet metal would be ideal?
How would one attach it? Epoxy? Screws? Any other adhesive that is used?
I read about butyl tape. I'm assuming folks use that with self tappers to attach their sheet metal?
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Old 09-29-2016, 11:06 AM   #2
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What gauge sheet metal would be ideal?
How would one attach it? Epoxy? Screws? Any other adhesive that is used?
I read about butyl tape. I'm assuming folks use that with self tappers to attach their sheet metal?
I would use whatever gauge metal the rest of the roof is, although you could prob get away with 18ga. The way I would do it without welding is cut the panel so there is a 4 inch or so overlap over the hole and use automotive seam sealer and 6 or 8 rivets on each side to secure it in place. I'm a big fan of rivets over screws though... Or if you're decent with a welder you could just weld in a piece of sheet metal and not have to worry about sealing the seams...
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Old 09-29-2016, 11:48 AM   #3
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I did a 2in overlap using auto seam sealer then rivets every 1".
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Old 09-29-2016, 01:28 PM   #4
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Is it worth trying to rent a rivet gun? I could probably ask around and see about borrowing. Thoughts on those 2 part epoxy tubes?
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Old 09-29-2016, 05:28 PM   #5
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You can buy a rivet gun at your local harbor freight type store for less than 40 bucks...
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:03 PM   #6
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Hf has a rivet gun for 29 bucks, it worked for about 1000 rivets on my reskinning, good buy
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:24 PM   #7
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I got the $70 HF riveter. The only sub-$300 one I could find that will do 1/4" rivets.
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Old 10-01-2016, 03:32 PM   #8
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Thanks that is the route I will take then!
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Old 10-01-2016, 04:08 PM   #9
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Quick side-question for those rivets.

Do you put any type of sealant between the riveted sheets to weatherseal things or the simple fact of riveting holds it tight enough to keep water out?

Or you put the sealant on the joint after the sheet is completely riveted?

Thanks! and sorry for the thread-jack!
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Old 10-03-2016, 07:26 PM   #10
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Quick side-question for those rivets.

Do you put any type of sealant between the riveted sheets to weatherseal things or the simple fact of riveting holds it tight enough to keep water out?

Or you put the sealant on the joint after the sheet is completely riveted?

Thanks! and sorry for the thread-jack!
I did both
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Old 10-03-2016, 07:40 PM   #11
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What gauge sheet metal would be ideal?
How would one attach it? Epoxy? Screws? Any other adhesive that is used?
I read about butyl tape. I'm assuming folks use that with self tappers to attach their sheet metal?

Why does any one even remove these to block them off? Why not leave them and maybe use them?
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Old 10-03-2016, 07:45 PM   #12
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Why does any one even remove these to block them off? Why not leave them and maybe use them?
My AC units will be mounted in at least 1 of them
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Old 10-03-2016, 07:58 PM   #13
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I was using portable dual hose a/c units. I read there more efficient not having the sun on them.

I was hoping to use the exit hatches to vent some air or maybe even get access to a storage roof rack? with a ladder.
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Old 10-03-2016, 08:04 PM   #14
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Why does any one even remove these to block them off? Why not leave them and maybe use them?
They're chintzy as hell, they're horrible for heat and cold, and they leak horribly.
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Old 10-03-2016, 08:08 PM   #15
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They're chintzy as hell, they're horrible for heat and cold, and they leak horribly.
Is there a rv vent that size out there? Maybe I'll find a marine Hatch. I was hoping to go through this hole to get on the roof.

In stopped rush hour I was planning on stepping up there so i could look down on every one and give them hand singles.

Question can you walk on the roof with out denting it?
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Old 10-03-2016, 08:18 PM   #16
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Not a vent that I've been able to find that size. I think the common hatch size is 24x24.
Do you have Instagram?
There's an account called: biglarrybus

Story short, large roof raise, a gas strut roof vent, and stairs to a crazy rooftop deck.

Give him a check, he's pretty cool and closest I've seen to the quality and what you'd want to do
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Old 10-03-2016, 08:20 PM   #17
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Is there a rv vent that size out there? Maybe I'll find a marine Hatch. I was hoping to go through this hole to get on the roof.

In stopped rush hour I was planning on stepping up there so i could look down on every one and give them hand singles.

Question can you walk on the roof with out denting it?
There are similar sized roof hatches available for rv's and buses, but as far as I know they're not a direct fit and would still need a panel to fit properly.
I've found em in 22x22 and 26x26.
The ones that come on our buses are crapola, though.
You can walk on the roof, but yo'll wanna stay on the ribs. I've seen several buses with two rows of dents goin down the roof from folks walking on em.
How much you weigh can be a factor, too.
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Old 10-03-2016, 08:20 PM   #18
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And you can walk on your roof gingerly, when I'm up there cleaning the panels I step where there's visible rivets on the ribs.
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Old 10-03-2016, 08:27 PM   #19
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And you can walk on your roof gingerly, when I'm up there cleaning the panels I step where there's visible rivets on the ribs.
So if a guy was to put a rack on the roof and go through this vent you would want it to be right next to the hatch. I'm off to have crazy charlies roof rack?

Is a roof platform to much if I don't have a band? You just cant hide them with a oval roof. This is either what all bus's should look like aspire not to be?
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Old 10-06-2016, 11:08 PM   #20
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I replaced both my hatches with 14ga galvanized steel. I cut it so that it overlapped by two inches, ran butyl tape around it, and then fastened it with self tapping screws every 3 inches. No leaks so far!
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