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Old 06-21-2016, 03:00 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Bed Liner for Bathroom?

Has anyone used a spray in bed liner product INSIDE of your bus? I was thinking about framing out a shower stall, then covering with the bed liner. It's water proof, and it holds up in the back of pickup beds. Any thoughts or ideas?
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Old 06-21-2016, 04:49 PM   #2
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A professionally-applied product vs the DIY kits are whole different ballgames. I haven't personally been super-impressed by the DIY stuff. In any case you'd want an application method that leaves a fairly smooth surface -- that Herculiner stuff when applied by roller is rough enough to give a real mean abrasion. That wouldn't go well in a shower.

You could also consider a liquid polyurethane like Vulkem 350. Warning: it isn't cheap. I've used it on a few outdoor wood-frame decks and been quite impressed with its waterproofing performance. It's pretty thin, though, so I'm not sure how well a vertical application would work out (I've only applied it just a few inches up the base of a wall). Might require lots of light coats.
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Old 06-21-2016, 06:25 PM   #3
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I used a product made to coat shower stalls under tile grout, then painted it.
Second year and looks like new.
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Old 06-21-2016, 06:55 PM   #4
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What kind of product is that? Like a plastic/rubber shower liner?
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Old 06-23-2016, 06:44 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeyBigBlind View Post
What kind of product is that? Like a plastic/rubber shower liner?
This is what I used.

Shop MAPEI Green Indoor/Outdoor Barrier at Lowes.com
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:02 AM   #6
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can I spray rattle can bedliner on the plywood floor of my bus and have decent durability as a floor covering? where my wheelchair lift previously was the rubber is trashed from hydraulic fluid I assume.. the wood is in good shape so I figured id paint it with an oil base primer to seal it from any remaining fluid.. then need to cover it with something.. I reallty dont want residential floor products... so I wondered how well rattle-can bedliner holds up if I paint several thin coast of it on...

-Christopher
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:40 AM   #7
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Christopher

While I'm certainly no expert on paint, I think that paint over oil isn't going to work. The "oil" in oil based paint isn't anything like petroleum lubricating oil. A quick search came up with boat guys wanting to paint over oil soaked wood and, while there were many opinions, most said it wouldn't really work.

Dick
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Old 06-23-2016, 10:25 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by somewhereinusa View Post
Christopher

While I'm certainly no expert on paint, I think that paint over oil isn't going to work. The "oil" in oil based paint isn't anything like petroleum lubricating oil. A quick search came up with boat guys wanting to paint over oil soaked wood and, while there were many opinions, most said it wouldn't really work.

Dick
what are my options? cutting out the wood is not an option.. I dont think I have the skill level to cut that piece out and replace it effectively without causing lots of damage... its not horribly soaked.. just around the hole where the original wires and lines went through the floor to the pump presumably.. ive been trying to find small quantities of the bus flooring used but seems it comes in big rolls designed to re-floor a whole bus.. arguably it would probably be "correct" for me to gut and re-floor the whole bus.. but not gonna happen as I need to use it much quicker and am not doing a "cadillac" conversion.. just minimal and drive the wheels off it... if i ever got a second bus to run around in I might think about gutting this one and doing a complete interior rebuild.. but not for at least a year as I have need for it..

I know there are some "sticks to anything" products out there i might just go at it with one of those and see what sticks... literally
-Christopher
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Old 06-23-2016, 11:38 AM   #9
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It really isn't difficult to set the plunge depth of a circular saw so that it barely cuts through the plywood but not into the sheet steel below. For that matter, it could be set a bit short and you finish it off with a utility knife. Similarly it's relatively easy to use a reciprocating saw ("saws-all") with a hook-end wood blade or an oscillating multi-tool to plunge in and cut through the wood without harming the steel below. If all that doesn't work... there's the hammer and chisel method. It'd take some time to work around the perimeter making a clean cut and chipping up the wood, but the tools and method would be simple, cheap, and easy to control. If nothing else you could take off just the first ply or two and fit a layer of hardboard ("masonite") or maybe even Fix-All paste to fill the void and provide a good surface for new flooring to be bonded. I'm with somewhereinusa: I don't recall seeing any kind of coating or adhesive that didn't recommend having the surface clear of dust and grease/oil.
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Old 06-23-2016, 11:45 AM   #10
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That rattle can bedliner is absolute garbage. If you're into the idea then get a can of the best roll on you can afford, it will be 100x better and more durable. I rolled the bottom of a stand up jet-ski with some good quality bedliner and two seasons later its still almost perfect. Here again prep work is key.
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