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Old 07-20-2004, 09:27 AM   #11
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the approximate size of my skoolie engine: too small!

it's a 6.6 liter brazialian made ford diesel......inline 6 cylinder turbo rated at 180 hp. will it have enough power to drive the bus faster than 60 mph?? I don't really know.

The beauty of the auxilliary transmission is that if i do all the work and find the bus can't handle an 18% incerease in the gear ratio.....i can just leave the aux trans in 4th gear permenantly. If it was a ring and pinion change...it would cost me hundreds of dollars to return the bus to it's original gearing.

I am planning ot visit the transmission shop again today and see how the project is coming along.
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Old 10-07-2004, 11:06 AM   #12
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I just found out what my gear ratios are, this is probably why I really out accelerated you last month Jason!

2 Speed Diff Carr GR: 6.33-8.81
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Old 11-26-2004, 08:15 PM   #13
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Cheaper option

I considered this on my bus
My bus has 22.5 tires in the rear
I thought of haveing 24.5 put on it this would increase the distance traveled per revolution and allow a higher cruising speed. My only problem is the 8.2L detroit is a pooch going up hills but has huge torque under 10 mph. Im thinking of adding the 24.5 tires and installing propane injection for the long hills. Propane is said to decrease cylinder temps and of coures add power.
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Old 11-26-2004, 08:18 PM   #14
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Gear splitter

I have installed a few gear splitters in some 1 ton trucks at work and those have been a great option. I looked for days for one to go behind my allison AT545 auto and had no luck.
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Old 11-26-2004, 11:48 PM   #15
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Mr. Lapeer, You have got me a little nervous about the Brazillian 6.6
The bus I would like to puchase is a 1998 Ford with the 6.6 I just got rid of a large transit bus because of top speed 55 MP/H.

I would like to have a cruising speed of 70 MP/H.
Having said that, I have not gone to see what this bus will do. It is a 72 Passenger bus.

Am I wasting my time going to see it??

Cheers!
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Old 11-27-2004, 11:28 AM   #16
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The 6.6 New Holland is a good engine--I've even seen them push 25-ton 10-wheelers to 65MPH (eventually).

However, the AT545 emasculates ANY engine it's behind. Essentially ANY other tranny would be a better choice. The 545 is a true "slushbox", in that it never locks up. It's also Allison's weakest tranny, the converter stalls too high, & it runs tremendously hot.

Lapeer: what tranmny do you have? If it's a 545, you're basically out of luck.
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Old 11-30-2004, 10:26 PM   #17
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I have the 545.. it's the 2nd trans in this bus. The first one went about 150,000 miles. The bus now has just over 276,000 miles.


thanks for the input.

This was one of my crazy ideas that i've since decided was a bit too crazy to put into practice.
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Old 12-01-2004, 03:27 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lapeer20m
This was one of my crazy ideas that i've since decided was a bit too crazy to put into practice.
Till next summer when it is warm out again and you are looking for something to do
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Old 12-01-2004, 06:18 PM   #19
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i believe that swapping the allison auto for the eaton 13 speed is a viable solution. I'm just not sure if the advantages are worth the effort.

swapping an auto for a manual trans might be way more difficult than i realize.

I still have access to an eaton 13 speed and the rear axle from a big truck for cheap..... $250.00

I also have a clutch pedal that is hydrolic actuated. That would make life a lot easier than trying to install the linkage.

Winter has set in here in the great white north. Any project on that scale would have to wait until warmer weather.
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Old 05-18-2006, 05:11 AM   #20
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slow as a snail

I have a 1975 Ford B600 with an unknown gas engine. I suspect a 361. I has a 4+2 which gives me plenty of torque but with the original goverened holly double pumper, 60 sounded like I was ripping the engine loose.

On one trip last year we discovered that it was flooding onto the maniforld so this year we've purchased a brand new Edelbrock Performer economy carb that is a bolt on replacement. The only problem is it won't accept a governor. So I'm going to have to govern it manually somehow. Probably just by keeping a VERY close eye on the new tach.
I have 8.25x20's on the rear right now and 10(.5?) x 22.5 G159's on the front. The rear is bias and the front is radial. I'm hoping that by changing to radial 22.5's all the way around I'll increase my speed without worrying about damaging my engine.
Any thoughts?
If I remember right the block code on the engine is D3TE-1
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