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Old 09-02-2016, 09:34 PM   #11
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milkmania View Post
Houses breathe
Agreed, but so will the stock schoolbus windows ill be forced to use this upcoming winter.
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Old 09-03-2016, 11:30 AM   #12
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,177
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
Sorry bout my compromised postings last night... 10 months without a drink is a long time!

But,

Even with a wood stove, you don't want an air tight bus.... Wood stove needs oxygen. It's gotta pull it in from somewhere.

I'm not talking about 2 inch holes in the walls, but my reasoning is that the stove has to draft... It's drafting the air in the room, and if it's airtight... It's creating a vacuum. If it can't draft, it's not going to burn clean.

My meat smoker hardly has any visible smoke coming out the chimney, because I've fine tuned the drafting for a cleaner and more efficient burn. Thereby sending more oxygen and burnt wood out the chimney.

I know it's as simple as opening a window a little bit, but it seems like money wasted sealing up door edges tight.

Maybe I'm way off base here, I know we're trying to warm up the inside of a tin can.
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Old 09-03-2016, 12:02 PM   #13
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milkmania View Post
Sorry bout my compromised postings last night... 10 months without a drink is a long time!

But,

Even with a wood stove, you don't want an air tight bus.... Wood stove needs oxygen. It's gotta pull it in from somewhere.

I'm not talking about 2 inch holes in the walls, but my reasoning is that the stove has to draft... It's drafting the air in the room, and if it's airtight... It's creating a vacuum. If it can't draft, it's not going to burn clean.

My meat smoker hardly has any visible smoke coming out the chimney, because I've fine tuned the drafting for a cleaner and more efficient burn. Thereby sending more oxygen and burnt wood out the chimney.

I know it's as simple as opening a window a little bit, but it seems like money wasted sealing up door edges tight.

Maybe I'm way off base here, I know we're trying to warm up the inside of a tin can.
Haha! No I getcha. I'm learning on the fly here and am taking all advice and opinions I can get. I am logic driven so the more input the better.

As for the stove this is the one I'm looking at(just cant pay $2k plus for a stove atm, sticker shock on an iron/steel box with a simple hinged door is insane.): Cubic Mini Wood Stoves - CB-1210 GRIZZLY Cubic Mini Wood Stove

As for how it was going to draft I was thinking about using this: Cubic Mini Wood Stoves - CB-2277-SS Stainless Steel Wall Mount with Fresh Air Intake

A SS wall mount with a draft plate underneath with a 2" flex hose that draws cold air in from the outside. Thoughts? Its really compact and states good for up to 400sq. My bus is about 250sq. inside floor. If the 2 in diameter draft plate underneath is good enough(I could even add an all weather brushless 12v fan to help draw cold air in), the having a good weather tight door would be good I would imagine, especially since I'm reusing most of the original bus windows this winter until I can replace with some nice RV windows.
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Old 09-04-2016, 12:28 AM   #14
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Join Date: Jul 2014
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Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
I built a replacement one piece door. I didn't change the geometry of the ram or pivot rod that the bifold door actuated with, just the locations of the air lines like you mentioned.

It was a fair amount of work, I built a custom hidden hinge and some other bits. Check the broccoli bus build some pages back for details. It uses an automotive style bearclaw latch to hold the door closed and lock, with pneumatic piston to unlatch the door (or just a handle for manual operation)

I've replaced the manual door open/close valve with a solenoid one so it can all be opened, closed, locked and unlocked from a keyfob, or switch to manual non powered operation like a normal rv door.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ntrain6942 View Post
I'm looking at replacing the bi fold air door on my bus, but I would like to keep the air actuator/piston assembly intact and just relocate it further towards the door and reverse the lines so the original "close" position is now open and vice versa. Are there any decent replacement doors out there or would I best off just fabbing it up. And where can I get a good solid rv lock/handle assembly? Tips and links appreciated.
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