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Old 09-02-2016, 07:06 PM   #1
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Bi fold air door replacement (single fold air door?)

I'm looking at replacing the bi fold air door on my bus, but I would like to keep the air actuator/piston assembly intact and just relocate it further towards the door and reverse the lines so the original "close" position is now open and vice versa. Are there any decent replacement doors out there or would I best off just fabbing it up. And where can I get a good solid rv lock/handle assembly? Tips and links appreciated.
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Old 09-02-2016, 08:28 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by ntrain6942 View Post
I'm looking at replacing the bi fold air door on my bus, but I would like to keep the air actuator/piston assembly intact and just relocate it further towards the door and reverse the lines so the original "close" position is now open and vice versa. Are there any decent replacement doors out there or would I best off just fabbing it up. And where can I get a good solid rv lock/handle assembly? Tips and links appreciated.
Can you post a picture of your door? Or give us a clue what it's on...

I flipped my leading edge (hinge side) piano hinge, braced across the center fold, and added a door lock that's operated on both sides. Only thing that could make me happier is a key fob activated deadbolt cylinder! Chirp chirp
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f27/lo...ors-14494.html


Are you full timing it?

If so, how do you plan to open it daily? Mine was a pain because it would not exhaust the air fast enough when I pushed the door open or closed... Negating the air cylinder.
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Old 09-02-2016, 08:50 PM   #3
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Only thing that could make me happier is a key fob activated deadbolt cylinder!
That's pretty easy, RC or Bluetooth from phone or both.
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Old 09-02-2016, 08:51 PM   #4
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That's pretty easy, RC or Bluetooth from phone or both.
I conqeur late
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:04 PM   #5
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Quote:
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Can you post a picture of your door? Or give us a clue what it's on...

I flipped my leading edge (hinge side) piano hinge, braced across the center fold, and added a door lock that's operated on both sides. Only thing that could make me happier is a key fob activated deadbolt cylinder! Chirp chirp
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f27/lo...ors-14494.html


Are you full timing it?

If so, how do you plan to open it daily? Mine was a pain because it would not exhaust the air fast enough when I pushed the door open or closed... Negating the air cylinder.


Pic of door/bus.

Yes, Ill be full timing it 4 seasons, on a piece of property I just bought in the mtns. So cold winters.

Basically looking at pulling door fully, moving the air cylinder closer towards the door, reversiong the air cylinder action and using a regular swing out door. Even if I have to fabricate it. I want it to be well insulated, so if I fabbed it, there would be a rubber moulding trim going around the frame of the door to seal out drafts.
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:11 PM   #6
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Dont wanr airtigt
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:25 PM   #7
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Dont wanr airtigt
Why not?
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:41 PM   #8
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Houses breathe
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:41 PM   #9
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Condindsation
Evaprtation
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Old 09-02-2016, 10:33 PM   #10
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Condindsation
Evaprtation
I was going to be running a wood stove.........dry heat.
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Old 09-02-2016, 10:34 PM   #11
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Houses breathe
Agreed, but so will the stock schoolbus windows ill be forced to use this upcoming winter.
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Old 09-03-2016, 12:30 PM   #12
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Sorry bout my compromised postings last night... 10 months without a drink is a long time!

But,

Even with a wood stove, you don't want an air tight bus.... Wood stove needs oxygen. It's gotta pull it in from somewhere.

I'm not talking about 2 inch holes in the walls, but my reasoning is that the stove has to draft... It's drafting the air in the room, and if it's airtight... It's creating a vacuum. If it can't draft, it's not going to burn clean.

My meat smoker hardly has any visible smoke coming out the chimney, because I've fine tuned the drafting for a cleaner and more efficient burn. Thereby sending more oxygen and burnt wood out the chimney.

I know it's as simple as opening a window a little bit, but it seems like money wasted sealing up door edges tight.

Maybe I'm way off base here, I know we're trying to warm up the inside of a tin can.
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Old 09-03-2016, 01:02 PM   #13
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Sorry bout my compromised postings last night... 10 months without a drink is a long time!

But,

Even with a wood stove, you don't want an air tight bus.... Wood stove needs oxygen. It's gotta pull it in from somewhere.

I'm not talking about 2 inch holes in the walls, but my reasoning is that the stove has to draft... It's drafting the air in the room, and if it's airtight... It's creating a vacuum. If it can't draft, it's not going to burn clean.

My meat smoker hardly has any visible smoke coming out the chimney, because I've fine tuned the drafting for a cleaner and more efficient burn. Thereby sending more oxygen and burnt wood out the chimney.

I know it's as simple as opening a window a little bit, but it seems like money wasted sealing up door edges tight.

Maybe I'm way off base here, I know we're trying to warm up the inside of a tin can.
Haha! No I getcha. I'm learning on the fly here and am taking all advice and opinions I can get. I am logic driven so the more input the better.

As for the stove this is the one I'm looking at(just cant pay $2k plus for a stove atm, sticker shock on an iron/steel box with a simple hinged door is insane.): Cubic Mini Wood Stoves - CB-1210 GRIZZLY Cubic Mini Wood Stove

As for how it was going to draft I was thinking about using this: Cubic Mini Wood Stoves - CB-2277-SS Stainless Steel Wall Mount with Fresh Air Intake

A SS wall mount with a draft plate underneath with a 2" flex hose that draws cold air in from the outside. Thoughts? Its really compact and states good for up to 400sq. My bus is about 250sq. inside floor. If the 2 in diameter draft plate underneath is good enough(I could even add an all weather brushless 12v fan to help draw cold air in), the having a good weather tight door would be good I would imagine, especially since I'm reusing most of the original bus windows this winter until I can replace with some nice RV windows.
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Old 09-04-2016, 01:28 AM   #14
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I built a replacement one piece door. I didn't change the geometry of the ram or pivot rod that the bifold door actuated with, just the locations of the air lines like you mentioned.

It was a fair amount of work, I built a custom hidden hinge and some other bits. Check the broccoli bus build some pages back for details. It uses an automotive style bearclaw latch to hold the door closed and lock, with pneumatic piston to unlatch the door (or just a handle for manual operation)

I've replaced the manual door open/close valve with a solenoid one so it can all be opened, closed, locked and unlocked from a keyfob, or switch to manual non powered operation like a normal rv door.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ntrain6942 View Post
I'm looking at replacing the bi fold air door on my bus, but I would like to keep the air actuator/piston assembly intact and just relocate it further towards the door and reverse the lines so the original "close" position is now open and vice versa. Are there any decent replacement doors out there or would I best off just fabbing it up. And where can I get a good solid rv lock/handle assembly? Tips and links appreciated.
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