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Old 03-27-2009, 02:45 PM   #1
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Big Rig Rear End...

I thought I'd throw this out there...

What if you could get a hold of a Big Rig rear frame and axle assembly? Could you cut the frame of the bus and slide the big rig frame, axle(s), tires, etc. underneath the bus? Of course, I'd imagine you'd want to remove the 5th wheel plate from the big rig frame before mounting it under the bus. This would give you air brakes and air ride suspension in one shot. You could either have a single or a tandem axle. I'm not sure what feats of engineering this would all entail, but it would be kinda cool I think. What advantages/disadvantages would there be in this kind of a setup? Any thoughts on what this "should" cost? I'm told big rig rear gears generally run anywhere from 3.21 to 4.33. Is that about the same on most buses? Any and All are welcome to chime in on this.

I'm new the the skoolie world, still looking for the bus of my dreams. I think I found one here locally and it's sale to me is "pending." We're waiting for good weather to put the tires on it so I can take it for a spin. The weather hasn't cooperated at all with me this week! It's supposed to be Spring Break here and we just got 6 inches of snow...and back to school on Monday (I teach). Thanks in advance...Ben.

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Old 03-28-2009, 09:11 PM   #2
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Re: Big Rig Rear End...

it would probably be easier to just swap the suspension pieces by bolting the hangers and brackets to the bus frame, measure,measure again, drill new holes in the frame and bolt everything on.
if you could find a similar mdt with air ride it could be a direct bolt in operation.
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Old 03-28-2009, 09:36 PM   #3
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Re: Big Rig Rear End...

I've been thinking about air brakes, 2 speed differentials, and air ride suspension for awhile and it certainly seems that changing out the whole rear end in one shot is the easiest way to satisfy all of these goals. I've been told that I can find another international rear end of the same weight class or greater and it should be a direct replacement for what I have. This definitely seems doable from my own junkyard research. As for finding a different model rear-end, or a different size completely, I think it is also doable, but way too much trouble when a direct replacement can be found. One more thing for you to consider, if you do not already have air brakes, there is a lot more work that simply changing out the rear-end with one so equipped. Don't forget the air pump, tanks, plumbing, and front brakes as well. It would be very dangerous to have a different break system for front and rear wheels due to the very different characteristics of each.
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Old 03-29-2009, 11:16 PM   #4
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Re: Big Rig Rear End...

I don't know the laws in your area but I know that up here in Kanata (Canada) DOT (department of highways and transportation) get kinda twitchy as soon as you weld onto a vehicle frame. If they see that you have it could mean writing off the vehicle so educate the crap out of yourself should you decide to do this. Also check out this thread from earlier,

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=3772&hilit=air+bag+suspension

I still haven't installed the system...May...Hopefully. But I encourage you to do the air bag system, its going to be well worth it, I hope.
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Old 03-30-2009, 12:40 PM   #5
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Re: Big Rig Rear End...

search my posts to see frustration and i didn't even put all the story in there adamanderr..... i just did this, completely newer axle, springs using existing hangers new air pots new lines old driveshaft.and still am not finished... id suggest buying another bus for sure....
.unless you have a bobcat. stakebody truck, tow behind air compressors, 15 friends who are a diesel mechanics etc..... no one wants to help a diy'er with air brakes is what i found......diveshaft to diff yoke compatabilty is very costly and a headache.....at least i already started with airbrakes..i did it all in my driveway because when i got to the point of giving in and just paying the pro 3500 to do it i found a wrecker couldn't even come close to accessing it....they all said i was crazy to even attempt driving a bus in there,, and i still have to drive it out.

1200 for axle housing>>>untested so well see if it even works..300 new tires 290 new yoke and u joint, may have to shorten shaft, 350. renting the truck tow behind compressor 3/4 in impact gun new sockets for 2 1-8 yoke nut..60dollars for spring pins alone.........and i even dirtbagged, bartered recycled and bribed for the lowest possible price on everything. not too mention all the travel to pick this stuff up at specialty shops. a brand new r+p gear was 1000 plus core. i found an entire rear( springs hangers wheels pots) out of a 2001 saf t liner with 30K miles in a big rig yard that had burned down for 1500 after becoming chums with the yardguys who sold it off the books to me.

..the first suggestion they commonly piggyback frame rails on dumptrucks but the big rig frame is probably too big to slide IN. versus youd have to disassemble and reassemble on the outside of your frame rail......disattach the bus body from frame up to that point and risk twisting all that maybe.....make sure to be on a SOLID surface with secure jacking... i did mine in a gravel driveway with asingle railroad jack 15ton. railroad tie cribbing......by myself.....................it fell off and almost completely over. get a cutting torch youll need it.

if you need specific questions answered ill try to convey what info ive found but good luck
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Old 03-31-2009, 02:04 PM   #6
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Re: Big Rig Rear End...

adamander said
Quote:
search my posts to see frustration and i didn't even put all the story in there adamanderr..... i just did this, completely newer axle, springs using existing hangers new air pots new lines old driveshaft.and still am not finished... id suggest buying another bus for sure....
.unless you have a bobcat. stakebody truck, tow behind air compressors, 15 friends who are a diesel mechanics etc..... no one wants to help a diy'er with air brakes is what i found......diveshaft to diff yoke compatabilty is very costly and a headache.....at least i already started with airbrakes..i did it all in my driveway because when i got to the point of giving in and just paying the pro 3500 to do it i found a wrecker couldn't even come close to accessing it....they all said i was crazy to even attempt driving a bus in there,, and i still have to drive it out.

1200 for axle housing>>>untested so well see if it even works..300 new tires 290 new yoke and u joint, may have to shorten shaft, 350. renting the truck tow behind compressor 3/4 in impact gun new sockets for 2 1-8 yoke nut..60dollars for spring pins alone.........and i even dirtbagged, bartered recycled and bribed for the lowest possible price on everything. not too mention all the travel to pick this stuff up at specialty shops. a brand new r+p gear was 1000 plus core. i found an entire rear( springs hangers wheels pots) out of a 2001 saf t liner with 30K miles in a big rig yard that had burned down for 1500 after becoming chums with the yardguys who sold it off the books to me.

..the first suggestion they commonly piggyback frame rails on dumptrucks but the big rig frame is probably too big to slide IN. versus youd have to disassemble and reassemble on the outside of your frame rail......disattach the bus body from frame up to that point and risk twisting all that maybe.....make sure to be on a SOLID surface with secure jacking... i did mine in a gravel driveway with asingle railroad jack 15ton. railroad tie cribbing......by myself.....................it fell off and almost completely over. get a cutting torch youll need it.
Pictures please!
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Old 03-31-2009, 07:25 PM   #7
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Re: Big Rig Rear End...

ive heard you should nt drill holes within an inch of each other.....and that welding should only be done on the web? of the frame not the flange?....as in on the vrtical face is ok not the horizontal...........im not cool with computers and have an attention and focus problem so well see about pictures sometime..... today i took off the intake manifold and valley cover plus numerous accesory and attatchments to access an misplaced pushrod follower from a botched valve and rocker extension gasket job... im never buying anything with an international 9.0 liter again.
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Old 03-31-2009, 09:29 PM   #8
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Re: Big Rig Rear End...

correct some framerails are heat treated and the strength is compromised by welding on or near the flanges, therefore it is a sound practise to not weld the flanges on any framerails. the inddustry standard is that whenever you weld a framerail it should be sleeved at least a foot past the weld with the sleeve bolted on both sides of the weld.

just keep telling yourself that these are exercises in building caracter, you now have a reason for being very colorful caracter
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Old 03-31-2009, 10:46 PM   #9
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Re: Big Rig Rear End...

Quote:
Originally Posted by adamanderr
ive heard you should nt drill holes within an inch of each other.....and that welding should only be done on the web? of the frame not the flange?....as in on the vrtical face is ok not the horizontal...........im not cool with computers and have an attention and focus problem so well see about pictures sometime..... today i took off the intake manifold and valley cover plus numerous accesory and attatchments to access an misplaced pushrod follower from a botched valve and rocker extension gasket job... im never buying anything with an international 9.0 liter again.
So I'm a little curious...did the bus even start with a misplaced follower? Seems like even a solid lifter would cause enough of a drop in oil pressure to prevent the hydraulic injectors from working. Of course this is all theoretical based a lot on what I know and even more on what I don't.
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Old 04-01-2009, 07:42 AM   #10
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Re: Big Rig Rear End...

if its mechanicaly injected, the I pmp only relys on engine oil for lubrication of the drive gears, all internal components are lubed with diesel fuel, if it has a HEUI system the engine oil pressure is amplified inside the electronicly controlled unit injecter, think large diameter/area piston on the oil side and small diameter/area piston on the fuel side, the pressure increase is proportional to the ratio of the piston diameter/area, the fuel shot size and timing are controlled by the ECU telling the electro magnet on top of the injector when and how long to allow fuel to flow.

I hope this explanation is understandable, if not i'll try again
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Old 04-01-2009, 10:31 AM   #11
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Re: Big Rig Rear End...

hadnt even started it,, it hapeened while i was scraping the lower gasket, i picked up the pushrod a touch to scrape around it and the suction of oil on the end pulled out the peice which fell down into the head abit and was unretrievable thru the small hole. so its called a solid lifter huh, i dont know much about these things.
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Old 04-01-2009, 03:25 PM   #12
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Re: Big Rig Rear End...

lifter, tappet, cam follower, it may be hydraulic , but it's probably solid and will need to have the valve clearance adjusted mechanicaly when it's reassembled.
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