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Old 01-15-2004, 03:16 PM   #11
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Location: Pettytown, Texas, US of A
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Just got my copy of NFPA 70.

It states that the ground shall be grounded.

The white shall be neutral (i.e. floating and not grounded to chassis) EXCEPT when hooked up to shore power and the ground to neutral will take place at the shore power box, not on the RV.
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Old 01-15-2004, 10:26 PM   #12
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i leaned something from a person at radio shack once.

we were discussing hooking up a cb radio backwayds, and the lady behind he counter said to me

"once the magic smoke escapes, you can never put it back inside"
Quis custodiet ipsos custodes (who will watch the watchmen?)
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Old 02-23-2004, 01:30 PM   #13
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Floating Neutral

From what I have read and always heard you want a floating neutral as previously posted. The ground is grounded to the bus chassis and the neutral is compelety seperate. Otherwise there is the chance somebody will get a shock. As I understand it you would want to use a secondary type panel that has seperate ground a neutral bus bars. With a main panel the two are bonded together. I think when the time comes I am also going to use an AFCI breaker just in case a wire gets worn on a sharp edge. I also plan to use BX or PVC conduit to protect the wiring. What is everybody doing when connecting wires, are you all using wire nuts or soldering? I worry about wire nuts coming loose from vibration? It is great to be here on the new and much better group. I hated posting on the yahoo group for fear of getting bitched at.
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Old 02-23-2004, 02:48 PM   #14
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This is what was posted as the 120V wiring code:

From Article 551, Section 54

a. Power Supply Ground wire(bare copper, green or green w/yellow

stripe) shall be grounded(bonded is the term they use) to hard

chassis ground. Microwaves, Coffee Pots, LP Pipes and water pipes(if

metal) shall also be bonded to this ground.

b. Your Distribution Panel(breaker box) shall have enough terminals to

attatch said ground wires.

c. Insulated Neutral

1. Your neutral(white wire) shall be insualted from hard chassis

ground. It will be a floating neutral. This is not tied to

appliances, frame, LP pipes, etc. THE ONLY TIME IT IS TIED TO HARD


2. Appliances that are plugged into sockets in the RV(240V stuff

here) are to be connected with a 3 pole, 4 wire grounding type plug

and receptacles.

Basically, the ground wire is grounded.

If the hot rubs against the frame or ANYTHING metal, the onboard RV

breaker throws.

If the shore power neutral/hot is reversed, since the neutral is

floating, you don't get zapped when you grab the bus frame while

standing on the ground. It will throw the shore power breaker if it

shorts to frame/chassis/ground and since it is floating, little Fee

Fee that is chained to the bumper won't be doing a mystical doggie

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Old 02-23-2004, 05:14 PM   #15
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RE: Quote

That is just what I was thinking, it is always good to hear somebody else say it in such clairity. I tend to make something simple sound complicated.
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Old 02-23-2004, 07:36 PM   #16
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Hi busone,

You asked about wire nuts and solder for your wiring connections and the answer to this requires that I make a statement about the wire itself. Please understand that it is decidedly not my intention to find fault with the way anyone else has chosen to wire up his/her bus. My comments are based on my background as a marine electrician involved in wiring for harsh (and moving) environments. If you used something else in your bus don't flame me ; this is just my viewpoint.

In my opinion you should consider not using solid copper wire for your AC system; for all marine applications stranded wire (and tinned in saltwater environs) is called for because it can withstand the constant motion and vibration of a moving vessel and solid copper tends to work harden and become brittle...and then break. It's also why all the 12-volt wiring in your car is stranded; that and the ease of routing stranded wire. Using stranded wire also makes it possible to crimp your connections (use a good double crimper); this is not only easier but has been found to hold up much better than soldered joints in moving vehicles and vessels. You might be interested to know that it's just about the only type of electrical connection made in aircraft and their needs are much more critical than ours.

A good solder joint is fine (except for vibration breaking it apart) but it's not necessisarily an easy thing to do without experience and it's very difficult to visually tell whether a solder joint has been done well or not.

It's certainly possible to do poor crimp connections but if you buy quality connectors (check out Terminal Town on-line) and use a good double crimper (the second crimp grabs the wire and provides strain relief) good results are easily obtained and quite repeatable.
Les Lampman
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