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Old 07-12-2006, 05:32 PM   #11
Bus Geek
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Location: Saint James, MN
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I think he's going to need a converter no matter what if he plans to just do the stick on towing lights. The 6 and 7 prong trailer adapters won't address the problem of having seperate brake and turn lights on the bus versus the combined system on most trailers. The 5th, 6th, and 7th wires are generally reverse lights and/or alarm, electric brakes, and auxilary power respectively. Fortunately the converters are cheap and available at any good fleet supply store, RV place, etc.
Skooling state at a time...
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Old 07-12-2006, 05:34 PM   #12
Bus Nut
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Location: Rossland BC, Canada
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Year: 1985
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: 366 propane
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The shop that I worked at used diode kits on toads. They would install a second set of bulbs in the existing fixture on the car, then wire that up to the plug that plugs into the bus. That way it is using the buses dc system and power, and does not change the look of the vehicle. Just somthing to look into.

When we moved we just rented a car hauling trailer for our jeep and it worked quite well. It had it's own brakes, no wear and tear on my vehicle and was a decent price.

good luck. -Richard
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Old 07-12-2006, 10:54 PM   #13
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Savage, MN
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Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: International
Engine: 7.3 diesel
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When I towed my truck all I did was just turn the lights on the truck and went away. Since I was just on the highway I said the **** with it.
A few weeks ago I started running wiring to use the lights on the truck. I ran it to the harness running to the rear tail lights. It is very simple to do and doesn't take no more time then running external lights. And unless someone turned something on in the truck there is no back feed.

A few years back when we still had one of them older tow bars that hooked up with chains and 4 big bolts to the front bumper. I use to lock the steering on the towed vehicle and back it in to the spot I wanted it at. Still wasn't the easiest thing in the world to do. The best thing to do is to not get yourself in to a spot that you can't turn around without backing.
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Old 07-14-2006, 01:18 PM   #14
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Hollywood, FL
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Just got back from getting the hitch put on. Wound up costing about $700, including the converter wiring and a drop hitch The hook-up for the VW was going to cost at least another grand, so we decided to rent a car dolly and go with that for now.

Next time I'll weld it myself! Turned out to be a custom job, with the low-hanging bumper. But I do have a removable hitch...

I'm thinking about getting some car dolly plans, and building myself one. That is, if I can't find a used one cheap. The dolly seems like the way to go, as it'll fit most cars and I don't have to drop the big $$$ whenever I want to bring along a toad.

Hopefully mechanic-types will be less expensive up in Vermont.
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