Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 04-25-2005, 12:21 PM   #1
Skoolie
 
dammitAndy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 138
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 370
Rated Cap: 44
Cargo Compartments Installed!!!

I just finished the installation of my custom cargo compartments for my bus. It was a lot of work but I am very pleased. Check out my work and progress photos of this project and let me know what you think.

Visit http://www.dammitandy.com/bus/05-spring05.htm

Heres a quick pic


__________________
'89 Ford 370-2V Wayne - Sold :(
https://www.dammitandy.com/bus

Plotting the next project now. Looking for a clean diesel pusher with low rust/miles. Identical plans with plumming and biodiesel added :)
dammitAndy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2005, 12:47 PM   #2
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 25
Looks awesome! Do you have contact info for the makers of those boxes? Do they sell to anyone or is it a local to you deal?
Thanks
~B~
1979GMC6000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2005, 01:36 PM   #3
Almost There
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Land of Oz
Posts: 75
Send a message via Yahoo to TravelingMan
Looks sharp! How much would those boxes cost? Like the info on your site too.
__________________
"I'm a man of means by no means King of the road"
TravelingMan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2005, 02:57 PM   #4
Skoolie
 
dammitAndy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 138
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 370
Rated Cap: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1979GMC6000
Looks awesome! Do you have contact info for the makers of those boxes? Do they sell to anyone or is it a local to you deal?
Thanks
~B~
Actually, I have the hookup. Family business is a metal fab shop. I designed them and put them through the shop like a real job. I worked there all through highschool and college so the guys knew me and knew what they where for so they didnt give me any greif.

The boxes are totally custom and made to spec for the doors you see on them and my bus. Dont think many small quantity customized jobs like that go through the shop cause of what it would cost, but ya never know. Check with a local fab shop around you. Or if you are on a budget, check some of the junk yards for old pickup cargo boxes. I hear those work pretty good to.
__________________
'89 Ford 370-2V Wayne - Sold :(
https://www.dammitandy.com/bus

Plotting the next project now. Looking for a clean diesel pusher with low rust/miles. Identical plans with plumming and biodiesel added :)
dammitAndy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2005, 03:00 PM   #5
Skoolie
 
dammitAndy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 138
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 370
Rated Cap: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by TravelingMan
Looks sharp! How much would those boxes cost? Like the info on your site too.
I called up my dad and asked what he would quote something like the boxes I had made, and he said about $100 per box, plus the cost of the doors, which was $120 for all 4. So I'm looking at a $520 total investment there.

Wow, I really got the hookup

Thanks for the props too
__________________
'89 Ford 370-2V Wayne - Sold :(
https://www.dammitandy.com/bus

Plotting the next project now. Looking for a clean diesel pusher with low rust/miles. Identical plans with plumming and biodiesel added :)
dammitAndy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2005, 03:22 PM   #6
Skoolie
 
dammitAndy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 138
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 370
Rated Cap: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by dammitAndy
So I'm looking at a $520 total investment there.
Oh ya, dont forget the $70 I spent on hardware at Fastenal to hold them things up too.

So, $590 investment!!!
__________________
'89 Ford 370-2V Wayne - Sold :(
https://www.dammitandy.com/bus

Plotting the next project now. Looking for a clean diesel pusher with low rust/miles. Identical plans with plumming and biodiesel added :)
dammitAndy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2005, 03:39 PM   #7
Bus Nut
 
Eric von Kleist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Grundy, Virginia
Posts: 632
Year: 1985
Coachwork: ThomasBuilt
Chassis: International Harvester S-1700
Engine: 9L IHC V-8 Diesel 180HP
Rated Cap: 60
"Oh ya" adds up

The boxes are really nice! You definitely have the hook up! I'm trying to figure out how to store 2 T105 batteries somewhere, and I really don't want to have to spend bucks for more containers.

Funny how that "oh ya" stuff adds up pretty fast.

"Oh ya, one more can of spray primer for the mirror struts."

"Oh ya, another box of 1 5/8" decking screws for the doghouse."

"Oh ya, another GFCI receptacle for that extra circuit I installed."

"Oh ya, another bag of grout for the tile work."

"Oh ya....dang! What happened to all my money?!?!"

Eric von Kleist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2005, 08:39 AM   #8
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 274
Hi guys!
Being a fabricator myself, I think I can give some advice on how to build low (...lower) cost under bus storage without having access to a full fab shop. First, depart from the norm of a sheet metal box and first build frames out of angle iron. 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 1/8 is strong and relatively lightweight. You can do this at home with a chopsaw, sawzall, or bandsaw, and a 110v mig or stick welder (Harbor Freight has 110v stick welders that would do the job for less than $200). Or, everyone seems to know someone with an old 220v AC stick welder. Next, use flat panels to enclose your box, 18ga min for welding. Tack these on every couple of inches and grind tacks flat. You can purchase doors or make them from heavier gage flat metal with foam gaskets or use the skirting itself for the door, add continuous (piano) hinge and some latches. It will be much cheaper to have a fab shop cut you flat panels out of the scrap rack than have them build a box. Or, you can buy a sheet of metal and cut it at home with electric or air shears or a nibbler or even a jigsaw if you have alot of time. If you take your time, clean your welds up a little with a grinder (if they're less than attractive) anyone can do this with a little skill, and a lot of patience. Remember, A thick coat of paint hides a multitude of sins. Check out Big Blue's generator box on page 10 of the gallery, I built it by this method at home in the evenings, the only part I did at the shop was shear the panels. Oh yeah, you'll need to seal these on the inside if you want , as this method isn't watertight.

Just a little info I thought might help.

Brad
__________________
Brad Davis
79 International Wayne
"Big Blue"
bdavis441 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2005, 10:30 AM   #9
Skoolie
 
dammitAndy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 138
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 370
Rated Cap: 44
Thanks Brad, thats some really good info. And I'm sure people dont have the resources I do with our shop, so that is some great advice for a cheaper solution.

I like your plan too, very do-able for the novice builder. And one can get as creative as they want doing it that way.

All I had to watch was to make sure the doors i bought fit. My advice to everyone is to experiment, remember, its just a damn bus, you can't hurt it.
__________________
'89 Ford 370-2V Wayne - Sold :(
https://www.dammitandy.com/bus

Plotting the next project now. Looking for a clean diesel pusher with low rust/miles. Identical plans with plumming and biodiesel added :)
dammitAndy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2005, 02:02 PM   #10
Skoolie
 
dammitAndy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 138
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 370
Rated Cap: 44
Now that I am all painted... Looking to find a way to hold these doors open while im loading and unloading them. Air cylinders would take too much work cause the inside walls are wider than the door opening and I would have to build some sort of mount. So I am looking at something to for the door to clip to when its up... I found these...

http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...=8801&tab=spec

I think they should work well and their cheap. I'm ordering some next paycheck and I'll post on how their performance.

Any other ideas, let me know please.
__________________
'89 Ford 370-2V Wayne - Sold :(
https://www.dammitandy.com/bus

Plotting the next project now. Looking for a clean diesel pusher with low rust/miles. Identical plans with plumming and biodiesel added :)
dammitAndy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2005, 02:22 PM   #11
Bus Crazy
 
Steve's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 1,839
Send a message via AIM to Steve
I like locking devices similar to that because they basically work automatically you don't need two hands to lock or unlock them.
__________________
View my 1972 Ward: Topic from the Build : The Picture Gallery
View my 1986 Blue Bird: Topic from the Build : The Picture Gallery
View my 1960 GMC: Topic from the Build : The Picture Gallery
Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2005, 08:10 PM   #12
Almost There
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Seattle, Washington
Posts: 82
Year: 1981
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American FE
Engine: Cummins 555 9.1 L diesel
Rated Cap: 77
door holders

Hi Andy,

Damn nice paint job.

My bus has little loops attached directly to the side of the bus--you hardly know they're there. Once you open the basement doors, though, you notice that the inside of the door has a similar loop, and a short stout rubber cord with two S-hooks, one of which is on the door loop, the other of which connects to the loop on the outside of the bus.

I'm not a fan of little plastic pieces myself, and my doors weigh a good piece, so I like the straps and hooks.

Branden
__________________
Lucinda
1981 Bluebird All American
Branden is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2005, 03:54 AM   #13
Bus Nut
 
Roasting8's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 382
Year: 1981
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Crown
Engine: 671 DD
Send a message via MSN to Roasting8 Send a message via Yahoo to Roasting8
Hi Andy,

I also have little loops on the outside, but instead of rubber cords with S hooks, mine came with small chains. I like the setup (simple and reliable) and wouldn't change it for anything else.

Robert
Roasting8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2005, 10:33 AM   #14
Almost There
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Fir Island, Washington
Posts: 83
Door Hooks

Hi Robert , being a KISS fan (keep it simple stupid) I am not much into the plastic thing. Like Robert I have a "Crown" Bus. The method employed there is simple and very effective. On the inside of the door on one end is a small chain with an S hook attached. When the door is closed it just hangs down with a piece of rubber hose on the chain to prevent motion chafing. When the door is opened the S hook loops into a loop or eye attached to the body of the bus. My doors are 2' x 3' and no problems of any kind when door is being held open by the small chain and S hook. The eye attached to the body is only about 1/2" in diameter and painted body color is not even visible when door is closed. Crown used this method for many years and never changed so it worked for them.

J.B.
J.B. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2005, 11:36 AM   #15
Bus Nut
 
Griff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Off-Grid
Posts: 740
Year: 1982
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: IH S1723
Engine: IH V345 Gas V8
Rated Cap: 66
You can also get those "T"-style holders that are on cargo trailer doors. They're pretty much a one-handed operation too (if installed correctly), and they're very inexpensive.
__________________
~(G)Q Arduously Avoiding Assimilation
Griff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2005, 07:08 AM   #16
Skoolie
 
Vern1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Pettytown, Texas, US of A
Posts: 115
Year: 1976
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: International
Engine: 345 IH gas
Rated Cap: 66 passenger
Greetings,
You can also use those "T" shaped door holders from any RV place.
The part that fits on the door has a slot and the hinged "T" part fits on the wall.
You open the door and drop the "T" in the slot and it holds it open.
They use them to hold the solid door open so you can use the screen door for ventilation.
__________________
Cheers,
Vern1
1976 International Wayne - ON THE ROAD!!
https://www.pettypb.com/bus
Vern1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2005, 06:03 PM   #17
Skoolie
 
dammitAndy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 138
Year: 1989
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 370
Rated Cap: 44
Ya, I saw those on a semi trailer the other day. They looked pretty cool. I still havn't decided...
__________________
'89 Ford 370-2V Wayne - Sold :(
https://www.dammitandy.com/bus

Plotting the next project now. Looking for a clean diesel pusher with low rust/miles. Identical plans with plumming and biodiesel added :)
dammitAndy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2006, 03:51 AM   #18
New Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: murray, Iowa
Posts: 6
I would love to have some boxes like that. I know I need something like that for the battery compartment. I have a voltmaster D904 deepcycle (398AH)@25A@80F. For tanks the only thing I could find cheaply was fruit 55 gallon plastic drums. I have no idea how to do this. I do have a friend that has a "wire welder" but not a cutter, so I'm going to try to cut the frame from the unused seats as the framework for the battery and water boxes.

Having a few extra under coach storage area would be a blessing as we have 7 normally in the coach.

My bus is a 1975 Ford B600 Sheller-Globe (Superior) Gas Conventional 9½ Windows.

Where do you get those doors?
cogyfarm is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Has any body installed an auxiliary overdrive? grampsbutler Mechanical and Drivetrains 5 07-19-2019 11:20 AM
120/240V household water heater installed and working bansil Electrical, Charging and Solar 46 12-13-2016 10:30 AM
Installed a Fireplace in my Thomas Pusher... usmcbay Conversion General Discussions 2 10-16-2012 03:14 PM
Building/buying basement or underside storage compartments? dentedvw Conversion General Discussions 1 02-06-2010 12:59 PM
Propane tank mount & waste tanks installed... GoneCamping Conversion General Discussions 0 11-05-2006 10:30 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:46 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.