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Old 01-29-2017, 08:09 PM   #11
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That set up looks dangerous. I hope you correct it. This may help, A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood - Installation Rules For Flue Pipes
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Old 01-29-2017, 08:54 PM   #12
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For the support, consider using a 'T' fitting just outside the window. Run it so the smoke comes in the base of the T and then up one side. For the side pointing down, put a cap on it, and support the pipe and the bottom cap with "L" brackets off the side of the bus. Below, parts #21-23 would have an "L" bracket on 'em, or a length of pipe down to where you COULD put an L bracket in. You might also be able to do a hanging support like part #30, hooked over the top of the open window.
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Old 01-29-2017, 08:57 PM   #13
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I agree... The flex ductwork is sketchy at best and I wouldn't dare sleep with a fire burning.
You're dealing with a lot of heat concentrated in that bend.
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Old 01-29-2017, 10:07 PM   #14
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Friend when that flex burns through it will vent into the bus and be a disaster.
I know because i also used dryer vent flex lol
AND i vented in a direction too, and it worked perfectly...until it didnt and blew and filled the bus with smoke is seconds. So i added a 90 and went straight up.


However... a temp solution is to place a sheet of metal in front of the vent, think a flat bridge of sheet metal that blocks wind from any direction besides up or down, which the wind rarely blows from up or down.

Good luck!
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Old 01-29-2017, 10:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carytowncat View Post
Friend when that flex burns through it will vent into the bus and be a disaster.
I know because i also used dryer vent flex lol
AND i vented in a direction too, and it worked perfectly...until it didnt and blew and filled the bus with smoke is seconds. So i added a 90 and went straight up.


However... a temp solution is to place a sheet of metal in front of the vent, think a flat bridge of sheet metal that blocks wind from any direction besides up or down, which the wind rarely blows from up or down.

Good luck!
yeah it is sketchy but it worked well when i did a 6in covered by a 7in flex. then the cresote weighted down the old top. i bought a 90...it won't fit. but i like the sheet metal idea for temp. the final plan is straight up and out...no angles.
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Old 01-30-2017, 12:03 AM   #16
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Also my chimney goes right out the window like yours. I couldnt bring myself to cut a hole in the bus roof, especially before i have tested the wood stove for at least a year and KNOW im not going to move it

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Old 01-30-2017, 04:23 AM   #17
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Op- was it you that asked about this a week or two ago?
There was a thread about this. I found it a bit funny that no one but me was saying to run the chimney straight up.
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Old 01-30-2017, 06:41 AM   #18
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good luck with the chimney. There's not enough vertical rise to start a draft. while you use your temporary chimney, maybe something like this will help.

https://www.northlineexpress.com/tje...ad-1-8803.html


good luck
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Old 01-30-2017, 07:51 AM   #19
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thats why I suggest a power vent... they are great for short run or hotizontal chimneys... it creates an artificial draft.. the good ones are variable speed sp they dont create too much of a draft and burn up all your wood.

you can also use a slight draft inducer if you have a sealed stove. a slight positive pressure into the air intake of a stove can induce a draft.. that air amount can be varied for the amount of burn you want. you need a sealed stove for that concept to work, but you also wont get any backdrafting as you air intake is sealed except for the inducer inlet.
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Old 01-30-2017, 08:23 AM   #20
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i have a power vented stove and two propane heaters out in my greenhouse. super easy to vent. i dont think i'd buy another natural draft firebox. all three heaters just have horizontal chimneys straight out the wall. pretty easy. and one of the heaters out in my greenhouse sounds like a trumpet when it starts. always nice to hear that its warm out there.
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