Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 11-12-2015, 03:45 PM   #11
Almost There
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 91
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Collins
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L diesel
Rated Cap: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
If I installed that window with silicone, and proper surface prep, you would never get the window out of the opening ever again.
That said, the next person who has to take that window out to fix a broken pane or recaulk is gonna hate your guts
Puggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2015, 03:53 PM   #12
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,439
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Puggy View Post
But to my original question, is there any reason to not permanently block off that gap? It seems like it's that way simply to make construction easier/cheaper.
I may not have been clear enough in one of my previous posts. Clean the inside corners of that lower sill and put a handsome dose of caulking in there before putting the window back in. That should seal the area up. I did the same thing. I even went so far as to round the lower corners of the aluminum window frames with a grinder so that the edges wouldn't cut into the caulking.
__________________
My build page: Armageddon - The Smell of Airborne Rust
jazty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2015, 04:10 PM   #13
Almost There
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 91
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Collins
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L diesel
Rated Cap: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty View Post
I may not have been clear enough in one of my previous posts. Clean the inside corners of that lower sill and put a handsome dose of caulking in there before putting the window back in. That should seal the area up. I did the same thing. I even went so far as to round the lower corners of the aluminum window frames with a grinder so that the edges wouldn't cut into the caulking.
Heh - ok well my question is about whether to make it literally permanent, and you're suggesting a temporary (even if it's years) seal. I'll use epoxy caulk on it then ;)

My guiding principle at times is, "If someone else has this bus in 10 years, will they curse me for doing this?" If I actually epoxied the entire window in, I'd have a fantastic seal but never, ever get that thing out. But if I epoxy that gap and use std. caulk for the window, I don't think it's going to cause any grief.
Puggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2015, 04:15 PM   #14
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,439
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Equally as temporary or permanent as all of the other window seals... You need them all to work to keep the water out. Epoxy is a nice solution, though. You'll still want it in the same place as I mentioned earlier. Don't put it on the outside of the gap. It needs to follow the seam on the inside of the pane from front to back.

EDIT:
actually, I was just looking back at your pictures and it looks like the sides of the lower sill may have been welded to the ribs (first bus I've seen done like that). If that's the case and there are no holes in the welds then you might be able to apply the epoxy on the back of the gap. Just poke around and make sure there's no way for pooling water on the sill to drip down the ribs and into the wall..
__________________
My build page: Armageddon - The Smell of Airborne Rust
jazty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2015, 05:17 PM   #15
Almost There
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 91
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Collins
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L diesel
Rated Cap: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty View Post
Just poke around and make sure there's no way for pooling water on the sill to drip down the ribs and into the wall..
That pooling and dripping down the ribs into the wall is exactly what it's been doing over the years I've found. It gets in via those little gaps in the bottom corners.
Puggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2015, 05:21 PM   #16
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,439
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Well yes, of course I get that.. What I'm saying is to make sure that the seam along the whole 90 degree angle where the rib meets the sill is properly sealed. If you were to simply fill in that big gap at the back, but there were pin-holes along the sill/rib joint then water could still drip down along the rib and into the wall.
__________________
My build page: Armageddon - The Smell of Airborne Rust
jazty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2015, 05:30 PM   #17
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,439
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Ok.. Pictures work best



So blue is the gap that you really want to seal. Good good..

Now, what I'm trying to get across is that the red line seam is even more important to have sealed up since that water will go directly down the rib and into the wall if there are any pin-holes in the weld, or if it isn't welded at all (it's hard to tell from the pictures. mine wasn't welded here at all). The green point in that little nook was a weak spot in my sills. It's worth making sure that yours is very well sealed.
__________________
My build page: Armageddon - The Smell of Airborne Rust
jazty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2015, 06:13 PM   #18
Almost There
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 91
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Collins
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3L diesel
Rated Cap: 18
Pictures FTW! Got it now, thanks!
Puggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2015, 07:01 PM   #19
Bus Crazy
 
ol trunt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,962
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
Jatzy has it exactly right as to prep and application and no silicone. Be certain to treat the areas you intend to seal with rust converter followed by primer prior to sealing things up. Jack
ol trunt is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:16 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.