COLD, CAULK, and CUSTOM DIY WINDOWS

[Joe45]

Originally Posted by Frogpondfoug

That's so true, you can do it

Thank you!

[Joe45]

By the way, what caulk would be best to attach my windows to the bus?
Should I also use butyl tape?
The weather window is closing fast here.
It now in the 30s in the morning and in the 70s for just a short time of the day.

[Joe45]

So...
I removed all the screws fro the inside wall panels, and then I see they are spot welded all along the top (see attached picture). Between the interior wall panels there is fiberglass batting. From what I can see, it look brand new in there: the batting and the paint.



Whadaya'all think? Put the screws back, insulate & panel over the existing interior wall panels, or tear them out from the spot welding somehow?


I have no idea if those panels will come off easy or cause a major issue.

[EastCoastCB]

Get an air chisel for fifteen bucks and shear it off. That's what I did. Its easy.

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

Get an air chisel for fifteen bucks and shear it off. That's what I did. Its easy.

Get two

I have already warn my first one out. I don't know how I live without one?

[o1marc]

Shears work better and cleaner. If you don't mind losing floor space by insulatiing outside the wall, instead of adding more efficient insulation in the cavities, then leaving it and insulating on top is an option.

[Joe45]

I think what I'll do is use a cutoff wheel on a grinder and slice off the sheet just below the spot welds.

[Joe45]

Any ideas on how to mount a residential window to a bus? I'm trying to avoid using wood framing.


Going to install the two residential windows soon.



Was looking at the windows and they have a "U" shaped channel on top and bottom. They also have an aluminum strip to secure it to the house/wood frame.


Those strips would have the window jutting out a bit, which is a no-no.


I'm installing a 1.5x1.5 square tubing frame inside the expanded bus window openings to hold the new windows.


So one idea is to cut off the inside lip of the "U", and end up with an "L". This would allow easily pushing the window on and screwing it.


Another thing is the frame of the window is aluminum. So, to prevent corrosion from contact with the steel, I can put a layer of foam between the window frame and the steel support frame, and screw it in with stainless steel screw. Then I can use seam sealer.



What do y'all think?

[o1marc]

Instead of wood, use steel tubing and screws.

[Joe45]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Instead of wood, use steel tubing and screws.

I'm making a steel frame welded to the bus to attach the window frame to.


Thing is; how do I get the steel frame inside the horizontal "U" on top and bottom of the window frame?


I'm thinking I can cut a lip off of the top "U" and make it an "L". This would allow me to situate the bottom steel cross member of the frame into the bottom window frame "U", and then simply push the "L" on the top against the upper frame, and screw it in.


Deciding whether to separate with some kind of weather stripping foam or butyl tape.

[Sharee100]

Home Depot has these windows: https://www.homedepot.com/p/TAFCO-WI...28-M/203259549 30 inches x 27 inches high.

[musigenesis]

nm

blah blah blah word count

[Lonejack]

Word of caution::
I appreciate that You are trying to save some money, but residence windows aren't built to live with the vibration and flexing that will happen in Your Scoolie.

I would suggest that You look in a RV salvage or boat salvage yard. Both of these vehicles are built to flex.
Look on Graigs list for a free RV maybe You can borrow the windows and other stuff to help your build.

[wrenchtech]

Originally Posted by Joe45

By the way, what caulk would be best to attach my windows to the bus?
Should I also use butyl tape?
The weather window is closing fast here.
It now in the 30s in the morning and in the 70s for just a short time of the day.

I don't know where in Arizona you are exactly. I know that up by Flagstaff it can get seriously wintery. Still, from where I'm sitting up here in Wisconsin, I am getting a chuckle out of reading that a guy in Arizona is worried that the weather window is closing fast. I have built a lot of houses Wisconsin and in Colorado where we just keep going right through the winter, even laying block and stone with -10° F overnight temperatures and highs of 15° F during the day. There is some caulk that works in cold temperatures. And you can keep your work warm with a propane or kerosene heater and some plastic sheeting to tent over it where appropriate. We can't let the weather stop us up here or we'd never get anything done.

[Joe45]

Originally Posted by Sharee100

Home Depot has these windows: https://www.homedepot.com/p/TAFCO-WI...28-M/203259549 30 inches x 27 inches high.

Thanks!
I already have the ones I am going to use though-unless I opt out and go for the RV ones.

[Joe45]

Originally Posted by Lonejack

Word of caution::
I appreciate that You are trying to save some money, but residence windows aren't built to live with the vibration and flexing that will happen in Your Scoolie.

I would suggest that You look in a RV salvage or boat salvage yard. Both of these vehicles are built to flex.
Look on Graigs list for a free RV maybe You can borrow the windows and other stuff to help your build.

I am on the fence about this. I've heard of people doing it and having no problems. My windows will be installed on a frame of steel tubing welded to the bus, so I don't think flexing is that much of an issue.

Still, I welcome input from those with experience.

[Joe45]

Originally Posted by wrenchtech

I don't know where in Arizona you are exactly. I know that up by Flagstaff it can get seriously wintery. Still, from where I'm sitting up here in Wisconsin, I am getting a chuckle out of reading that a guy in Arizona is worried that the weather window is closing fast. I have built a lot of houses Wisconsin and in Colorado where we just keep going right through the winter, even laying block and stone with -10° F overnight temperatures and highs of 15° F during the day. There is some caulk that works in cold temperatures. And you can keep your work warm with a propane or kerosene heater and some plastic sheeting to tent over it where appropriate. We can't let the weather stop us up here or we'd never get anything done.

Yeah. Most people think Arizona is one big desert!

We live in the white mountains-same weather as flagstaff. We're at 7,000 feet in pine country.


This morning it was 14F. Its going into the 60s this weekend.


Funny that you mention tarping it! I was thinking of getting those clear painter's tarps and taping them to cover the bus, then running my kerosene heater inside the bus. I figured the heat would get trapped inside, at least while its on during the day.

[wrenchtech]

Originally Posted by Joe45

Yeah. Most people think Arizona is one big desert!

We live in the white mountains-same weather as flagstaff. We're at 7,000 feet in pine country.


This morning it was 14F. Its going into the 60s this weekend.


Funny that you mention tarping it! I was thinking of getting those clear painter's tarps and taping them to cover the bus, then running my kerosene heater inside the bus. I figured the heat would get trapped inside, at least while its on during the day.

After my big talk about working through the cold, I find myself struggling in unseasonably cold weather. It will be 17° overnight here and only rise to 36° tomorrow. It is usually about 10° warmer at this time of the year. I am trying to get the truck-cab parking heater I just purchased up and running. I ran an open flame kerosene heater for a couple of days and boy was that a mistake. Everything in the bus now has the stink of kerosene soot on it. I will be busy wiping down the surfaces and washing whatever else I can tomorrow, but first I have to get that heater going.

[Joe45]

Originally Posted by wrenchtech

After my big talk about working through the cold, I find myself struggling in unseasonably cold weather. It will be 17° overnight here and only rise to 36° tomorrow. It is usually about 10° warmer at this time of the year. I am trying to get the truck-cab parking heater I just purchased up and running. I ran an open flame kerosene heater for a couple of days and boy was that a mistake. Everything in the bus now has the stink of kerosene soot on it. I will be busy wiping down the surfaces and washing whatever else I can tomorrow, but first I have to get that heater going.

What's a truck cab parking heater?



I may use the kerosene heater anyway. Have used it in my house and haven't had soot problems. It's one of those that looks like a barrel with the flame inside and a little glass window. Is that the one

you used?

[banman]

Joe45

Regarding galvanic corrosion -- you only need to use a layer of tape (packing tape would work) between the Al and steel frame.

I will most aluminum frame windows are pretty cheap though...
The Al will conduct heat/cold to the outside pretty easily.

I was always amazed that the windows in my 1962 Fireball camper were better than most of the windows used in houses built in the 70's to '90 in Fort Collins, CO. Super cheap aluminum track windows -- I use them for a green house but not much more...

But I also respect a no-money budget hence the suggestion for scotch tape which is exactly what we used to install the steel bearing housings on the aluminum pillow blocks of the tail rotor drive shaft on a Huey (UH-1H) too easy!