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Old 09-05-2017, 07:19 PM   #1
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Confusion on AC wiring...

Before you ask... Yes, I've been reading through the electric threads in the tutorial section of the site.

Here's what I can't wrap my head around.

When you aren't hooked up to a shore pedestal but are still running 120 volts, how do you ground the system for safety reasons?

We're planning on having a 12v battery bank and an inverter for off grid use. In this case, the entire system is inside the bus.

I've seen frequent mentions of neutral ground bonding, but don't understand exactly how this works or what it achieves.

I've also read people talking about grounding it to the vehicle, but wouldn't this cause a hot skin type of problem? If not, why not? Also, would this not cause any interference with the bus batteries?

These may seem like profoundly dumb questions to people who understand all this, but I appreciate the help.

In the meantime, I'll keep reading more threads...
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Old 09-05-2017, 07:24 PM   #2
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I also have read thread and watched YouTube. However I have the same issue. I am ready to wire the circuit breaker panel but the ground bus bar is the issue also.

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Old 09-05-2017, 08:44 PM   #3
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I'll let you know if I make sense of it all!
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Old 09-05-2017, 08:59 PM   #4
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reply

Make sure you post what you find out so the rest of us can do it as well!
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Old 09-06-2017, 06:15 AM   #5
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Will do.

This is something...

"NEVER, EVER tie neutral and ground
together, manually, in any installation, period! Neutral is
tied to ground at the source of AC power simply to allow
the ground wire to be an alternate path for return current
during a failure where the hot wire touches the chassis of
a device or vehicle. This is intended to trip the breaker.
However, when neutral is tied to ground in the vehicle,
thereís a voltage potential between the ground plane of
the vehicle, and the ground plane of the electrical grid
connection. If thereís resistance on the ground and neutral
wires, the current will find some other potential path back
to earth ground and that path may be you as you open
the door of your vehicle. This isnít the kind of excitement
you want to experience!"

From this document

http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Tec...-Universal.pdf
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Old 09-06-2017, 06:48 AM   #6
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always have a copy of the NEC ... or pretty current copy. u can learn lots.
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Old 09-06-2017, 09:14 AM   #7
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Okay guys I am dumb, you are saying use a grounding bar and is it okay to attach it to the frame?

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Old 09-06-2017, 09:29 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IWC Bus View Post
Okay guys I am dumb, you are saying use a grounding bar and is it okay to attach it to the frame?

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Please make sure you tap your network of friends and family and find an electrician to check whatever your wiring. I can appreciate wanting to understand and do the work yourself, just put some trained eyes on your work.

People are reluctant to give specific electrical advice in case someone gets injured or kilt. Or worse- your sine wave flux inverter gets melted.

Post some pictures of your electrical diagram and that may help. List your expected loads and sources.
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Old 09-06-2017, 10:16 AM   #9
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Simple solution:

Stop running AC power in your bus. Use DC instead. DC is easier to understand, and at 12v much much safer. Plus, you won't be spending 1/3 of your power budget doing ac/dc conversions.

My bus runs entirely on 12v DC with the exception of my TV and refrigerator, which connect directly to my inverter.

The only time AC at scale comes out ahead is if you're always tethered to shore power.
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Old 09-06-2017, 10:43 AM   #10
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Ok I am probably wrong... When you run shore power, you basically send the neutral and ground through the wire to the shore power breaker/ground.
You need a physical switch to go to gen power... And the ground goes to the chassis(here is where my memory is fuzzy) and the generator has to somehow have the neutral tied into the chassis. Besides here search Google. There is a pretty detailed explanation on "hot skin" that gives the exact wiring.

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