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Old 05-02-2005, 08:04 AM   #1
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Plymouth MA
Posts: 186
Corrosion protection/prevention: your inputs, please!

On the subject of WVO heaters and plumbing, the possible problems of corrosion of dissimilar metals (copper/brass connected to iron pipe) came up.

I suggested dielectric pipe nipples as used in domestic water heater connections: these replace the standard pipe nipples between the water heater (iron/steel shell) and the copper pipes.

SO, for corrosion protection, has anybody attached boat zincs to their rigs to forestall/reduce corrosion? I know that they are essential for metal protection for salt-water craft, and a buddy of mine in a Jeep rebuild bought a new Hot-Dipped Galvanized frame for his CJ-7. He said it should last longer than him, and he just turned 40.

I've been a big fan of galvy since I was a kid, and still see sound galvy gutters around that were installed in the 1940's and '50's.
Mind you, they were kept free of leaf buildup, but still.........

Does anyone have any success/horror stories of rust control, prevention, or failure?
Please post them here.

Since my 1990 F-150 is beginning to suffer some real surface corrosion problems, I'm going to a marine supply and attach some zincs to see if it helps slow things down. Yeah, I'm sure I'm locking the barn door after the horse is gone, but it can't hurt much.

NOTE: I am NOT recommending using galvy pipe for the WVO conversion, because I believe that flakes of zinc may dislodge from the interior of the pipe and clog/otherwise screw up the bus' engine or radiator, depending on how you hook it up to your rig.
I would think that a couple light coats of cold galvy spray would do well to protect the exterior of the iron pipe in something like Pixie's rig.

So folks, Comments and Suggestions please, with a bent towards actual experience if you have it!

The tool storage is nice, but where do I put the bed?
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Old 05-02-2005, 05:37 PM   #2
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The rust converter you can get from auto parts suppliers does a good job. You need to clean off the loose stuff with a good wire wheel and clean the metal, when dry it becomes very hard. Then sand, prime and apply paint.
"I'm a man of means by no means King of the road"
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Old 05-03-2005, 08:16 AM   #3
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For heavily rusted surfaces I've also used rust converters. I used it on the frame of my IH Scout II and it seemed to do it's job. It's been a few years an the paint hasn't flaked off or bubbled. Of course I don't drive it in the winter (salt). For light surface rust I've used OxiSolv rust remover ( I've even used it for prepping sheet metal for painting. The zinc phosphate coating seems to help. I've had paint chipped down to bare metal for a few years on my Scout and still rust free. I think POR-15 Metal-Ready is the same as OxiSolv. It's basically phosphoric acid. I'm not sure what is added to create the zinc phosphate coating since phosphoric acid will create a protective coating of iron phosphate. Maybe they add zinc or is it just creative marketing? You can buy phosphoric acid by the quart for about $8 at

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