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Old 12-15-2011, 01:39 PM   #1
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Cove trim lighting ?

While watching a remodeling show on the tube i saw the mention of Cove Trim lights. The Cove trim goes between you ceiling and wall. Just wondering if anyone has used this for lighting. Looks to me it might be a good deal. You cannot directly see the light itself.

http://www.ehow.com/list_6515737_cove-l ... ideas.html
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Old 12-15-2011, 02:09 PM   #2
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Re: Cove trim lighting ?

Not in anything mobile. David had used lights hidden in boxes within the cove trim. It''s a PITA to change the lights.
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Old 12-15-2011, 02:53 PM   #3
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Re: Cove trim lighting ?

Ive built a wooden valance that attaches to the wire chase above the windows. in my kitchen area I have white led's that shine down. On the top side I have red led's that shine up off the roof. you can not see any of the lights themselves. I use 12 volt 12" led srtip lights from hong kong, they are small and self adhesive. Take nothing for power( left 5 of them on for days, no problem) Heres the link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flexible-30CM-W ... 41607690f0
Im gone for 4 days, when I get back I'll post pictures of my lighting. cheers
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Old 12-15-2011, 03:01 PM   #4
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Re: Cove trim lighting ?

It looks very nice when done correctly. Last year we purchased 3w led lights for my brothers trailer, to test them (they give out about 50-60w of light), and i am going to switch all my bus over to these 12v led lights cause they work great..and probably my house as well.He runs his off a solar panel/battery setup and has left one of them on since we installed them. the same company from china sells the 12v rope lights as well..they are on eBay
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Old 12-16-2011, 12:12 AM   #5
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Re: Cove trim lighting ?

A friend works at a place that makes LED strips. he gave me a few test samples. There are 9 bulbs on a green circuit board-no frills-1 ft by 1/2" wide. it sits in a piece of aluminum channel. The white material is the stuff they use for bathtub enclosers. It was a good way to make the curve of the roof line. And it reflects the light well.

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Old 12-17-2011, 03:44 PM   #6
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Re: Cove trim lighting ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by freakn
Ive built a wooden valance that attaches to the wire chase above the windows. in my kitchen area I have white led's that shine down. On the top side I have red led's that shine up off the roof. you can not see any of the lights themselves. I use 12 volt 12" led srtip lights from hong kong, they are small and self adhesive. Take nothing for power( left 5 of them on for days, no problem) Heres the link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flexible-30CM-W ... 41607690f0
Im gone for 4 days, when I get back I'll post pictures of my lighting. cheers
$20 for shipping and no combined shipping will kill you...wow
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Old 12-17-2011, 05:52 PM   #7
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Re: Cove trim lighting ?

I have a question about the LED strips... when one goes out, do they all go out? Or do they stay lit? Other question... When you have one led go out can you replace it or do you wait unitl enough burn out and replace the whole thing? I know they make individual LED replacement bulbs for Christmas lights. I just wondered it it was the same with rope lights. And if it is, how do you get the heavy plastic covering off to replace the light?
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:02 PM   #8
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Re: Cove trim lighting ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lornaschinske
I have a question about the LED strips... when one goes out, do they all go out? Or do they stay lit? Other question... When you have one led go out can you replace it or do you wait unitl enough burn out and replace the whole thing? . . . . .
1. It depends on the design - most likely LED assemblies designed for efficient 12-volt operation will lose 3 or 4 together, but not all of them at once.
2. It is unlikely you can change an individual LED. If they are soldered onto a circuit board, anyone who can do that type of work should be able to change one. But rope/strip light strings are likely to be permanently "potted," requiring you to put up with a few LEDs out until you decide to change the entire unit.

LEDs run on very low voltages. Typical indicator LEDs are 2.1 volt, .02 amps maximum current each. That makes them 0.042-watt units. A single indicator circuit designed to run at full brightness at 14.1 volts might have a simple 600-ohm resistor in series to limit the current. That means the resistor draws 12.0 volts and the LED draws 2.1 volts at 0.02 amps. The resistor burns 0.24 watts as heat in order to protect the 0.042-watt LED, and uses 85% of the power drawn. Producing heat instead of light is the main complaint with incandescent lamps.

Let's say instead we have 5 LED indicators in series. They cumulatively draw 0.02 amps at the sum of 10.5 volts. But the resistor would be only 200 ohms to work at 14.5 volts. That means the resistor draws 4.0 volts and the LEDs draw 10.5 volts at 0.02 amps. The resistor now draws 0.08 watt, and the 5 LEDs draw 0.21 watt, or 0.29 watts total. By comparison, 5 single LEDs on 5 individual resistors would draw 1.41 watts. The series string uses about 80% less current from the supply to have 5 LEDs at full brightness.

The problem with using only resistors to limit current is that changes in voltage as the batteries charge and discharge change the amount of current the resistors allow the LEDs to pass. And LEDs usually only burn out on over-current, not old age.

I used to design 12-volt indicators on projects using 1200-ohm resistors, so that each LED had 50% current at 14.1 volts, and 100% current at 26.1 volts. That way, I did not have to worry about indicator burn-out. I was concerned with equipment status, not illumination.

Now let's look at the bane of LEDs, supply voltage fluctuation.

In the first example, if the voltage rises from 14.1 to 16.1, the voltage dropped by the individual resistor rises from 12.0 to 14.0, which results in 0.233 amps drawn, or 16% over-current. In the series string example, if the voltage rises from 14.5 to 16.0, the voltage dropped by the resistor rises from 4.0 to 5.5 volts, and the current provided rises to 0.0275 amps, which is 37.5% over-current. If one of the LEDs can't take that it burns out, and all 5 LEDs go dark when the circuit opens.

On the other hand, If the supply batteries discharge to 10.6 volts, the current to the single LED in the first example drops to 67%, but the string current in the second example drops to 02.5% and the five LEDs appear to be out. The less power resistors consume as current limiters, the more changes in voltage affect the LED operation.

There are special LED driver chips made, which are as complex as a miniature computer power supply. As a back-yard design for efficient lighting, I would probably use a common 9-volt regulator chip, and wire indicator LEDs strings of 4 in series for 8.4 volt operation. Each string of 4 would use a 30-ohm resistor in series to limit current to 0.02 amps by dropping 0.6 of the regulated 9.0 volts. The LEDs should have the same maximum brightness as the supply voltage is varied from the minimum needed by the regulator IC (probably about 10.5 volts), up to the capacity limit of the regulator IC, maybe 30 volts.

When you buy an LED taillight, flashlight, or rope lights, you have no clue how simple or sophisticated the current limiting circuitry is. That means you don't know if they will go 'pop' if you have a flakey alternator, or if they will be happy with any voltage you throw at them.

I have used indicator LEDs in my example, because I have worked with them, and they are fairly common. Lighting LEDs are being made now drawing several watts, some have special cooling heat sinks (think police/fire light bars) and special regulators. While 2.1 volts is common for indicators, LEDs in various colors might draw somewhere between 2 and 5 volts each. (Series strings should be made up of identical LEDs.) But the circuit design principles are the same. Having LEDs in series adding toward the supply voltage saves power, but requires more sophisticated current regulation.
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:43 PM   #9
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Re: Cove trim lighting ?

$20 for shipping and no combined shipping will kill you...wow[/quote]

That listing was just an example, not sure where the $20 shipping came from though
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Old 12-18-2011, 11:26 PM   #10
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Re: Cove trim lighting ?

Thanks Redbear! That was an informative and well written post. I'm now buying led lights--might as well know something about them.
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Old 12-19-2011, 12:45 AM   #11
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Re: Cove trim lighting ?

Thanks Redbear. Based on what you said, plus what minuscule amount that I already knew and current prices... I think I will stick with track lights from Home Depot (I can buy extra matching fixtures) and use a fluorescent screw in bulb along with a few of the fluorescent light fixtures that use those skinny tube lights the thickness of your little finger. If I decide to spring for the cost, I can still use a screw in LED bulb in the track light fixtures. Or just try one (some lights give me a headache to read by).

Back when we had our popup, we used a modular track light with a single mono-point canopy fixture... one at each end of the popup. Worked great. We had to remove the light fixture itself when we popped down, but that was no problem. And they held up well during the 18 years we had the popup. Worked great with the spiral fluorescent light bulbs (the ones that look like an ice cream cone).
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:00 AM   #12
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Re: Cove trim lighting ?

I bought some waterproof led lights, 15' flexible strip for like $9. they are great, cuttable every 3 lights. They will have tons of uses in the bus, glad to see this post....
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Old 12-29-2011, 09:49 AM   #13
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Re: Cove trim lighting ?

a tacky 80's alternative from the shaggin waggon days is the rope light mod. now they do have led rope lights now to! but im sure they are 110v
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Old 12-29-2011, 12:28 PM   #14
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Re: Cove trim lighting ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuff
a tacky 80's alternative from the shaggin waggon days is the rope light mod. now they do have led rope lights now to! but im sure they are 110v

Outwater has 12vDC but it would probably work out cheaper to pick up a cheap inverter and regular 110vAC light ropes.

I've been looking at DC & AC lights and have finally decided to go with a fluorescent thin tube and wire them into the little cheapie ($20 - $25) 750W inverter I bought back during the summer from Sam's Club. 6 X $19.87 ($101.82) beats 6 X $42.06 ($252.36) and that's only the lights we will use to replace the dome lights. I will still need more lights for under the galley upper cabinets & in the water closet (another 6 to 7 lights?) plus power the piezo ignition on the gas range (so that I can use the oven and still keep baking bread, cookies or pizza when the power goes out... my range has no pilot lights). I can power ALL my lights off the cheapie inverter (single 8 watt bulbs) and replacement costs per light is so much cheaper than the 12vDC units. I've thought about it and decided that would be best for us.
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Old 01-07-2012, 04:30 AM   #15
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Re: Cove trim lighting ?

http://[img]http://www.skoolie.net/a....jpg[/img]
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Old 01-07-2012, 12:20 PM   #16
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Re: Cove trim lighting ?

now you can buy remote control 12v led light bulbs from china that will change into many different colors. i think they are around 10 bucks on ebay. Just saw them last week, and am going to order a couple to test them out. i think they have the m16 base, but adaptors can be purchased easily for less than two bucks
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Old 01-07-2012, 01:47 PM   #17
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Re: Cove trim lighting ?

these are froulescents and work on shore power but they look great!
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Old 01-07-2012, 03:56 PM   #18
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Re: Cove trim lighting ?

Ha timbuk,,i use the ropelighting inside my bus,and it lights the inter real well and u can get them in low volts or 110 volts at home deport or lowes,,,i got mine as christmas lights one yr the same thing at lowes,,i got 8 boxs one yr at 50 cent a box after christmas sale,, and they are 10ft long. (look above the paddel and will see it )
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:03 PM   #19
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Re: Cove trim lighting ?

is that paddle for stirring drinks?
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Old 01-10-2012, 10:51 AM   #20
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Re: Cove trim lighting ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by timbuk
is that paddle for stirring drinks?
... reminds me of cutting moonshine in a trash can....
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