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Old 09-04-2016, 04:48 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Let me know what measurements you need and I can have them ordered and sheared to size for the wholesale cost of the steel.
Deal man! I'm going to measure today, I assume it comes in 8 or 10 foot sheets? Thinking 18 gauge or 20g if I can get away with that?
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Old 09-04-2016, 05:03 PM   #12
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Maybe I can make a jig with some jacks to hold it up too
I did my skinning by myself. I had the top rub rail off so I just screwed some 2x4s on to set the skin on while did the drilling and riviting.
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Old 09-04-2016, 05:20 PM   #13
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I copied this from another member, made it easy to hold in place plus I was able to work I
The sheetmetal under the roof metal so I over lap a couple inches.
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Old 09-04-2016, 05:27 PM   #14
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I copied this from another member, made it easy to hold in place plus I was able to work I
The sheetmetal under the roof metal so I over lap a couple inches.
I had screenshotted that before! Thanks man, love a raised crown.
My last question is I planned on removing a few original supports between windows for some large rv windows to go. I should weld some new supports near the rv windows after right?
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:34 PM   #15
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I had screenshotted that before! Thanks man, love a raised crown.
My last question is I planned on removing a few original supports between windows for some large rv windows to go. I should weld some new supports near the rv windows after right?
I would say frame out the what you've cut away, to help keep the structural rigidity. However, no more than 2 ribs, and NOT the same sections of ribs.
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:11 AM   #16
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id go find scrap RV windows and keep the view.. otherwise your bus is gonna be dark and dreary and feel like a prison.. but yes id say anything is better than school bus windows
-Christopher

I was thinking the same thing. It can get really tight and dark without windows. I only owned one van in my lifetine without windows, got rid of it fast. We have dark shade curtains when we want it dark.
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:20 AM   #17
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Use Clecos to hold the metal in place while drilling & riveting. They are avail in various sizes and work great.

https://www.amazon.com/Boulderfly-Pc...cleco+fastener
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:51 AM   #18
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Deal man! I'm going to measure today, I assume it comes in 8 or 10 foot sheets? Thinking 18 gauge or 20g if I can get away with that?
I'd go 18. less tin can effect and all.
normal sizes of the sheets would be 4x8, 5x10, 6x12
Those can be sheared into strips or whatever you need, and the price is by weight, so figure out what size sheets would be the best utilization of the material etc and we can get it ordered for you.
I also have a brand new harbor freight riveter if you wanna try that out.
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Old 09-05-2016, 04:37 PM   #19
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Hey man I'm looking at about 30 feet on each side
With a height of 25'' between the bottom window to top under the (rain lip??? Lol) I'm no too worried if it's sheared beforehand but it certainly would help.
Maybe 7 sheets of 4x10 to be safe, 18g
Let me know
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Old 09-05-2016, 04:49 PM   #20
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5x10's could be sheared to the right width and you would have less waste, or am I missing something?
Would 6 5x10's sheared in half work?
I'll get you a price on plain steel and galv-anneal.
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