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Old 07-22-2007, 10:27 PM   #1
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Re: De-Bouncing

Ride in the front?
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Old 07-22-2007, 10:51 PM   #2
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Re: De-Bouncing

I might be one of the few who is just used to it that I don't notice how bad it really is. A suggestion I'll give is to add more weight in the back.

Such as a 500+ pound block of concrete between the frame rails. We did this to a transshuttle bus (tc1000) cause it didn't have enough weight in the back for traction on snow and ice. By doing this it did make it ride a little smoother. We got one of those big plastic mixing boxes and filled it up with concrete and jacked it up with angle iron underneath to hold it up. The only draw back with this in my case cause I have a shorty and my dump tank is in the back between the frame rails so I can't do it like that. You could always remove a couple leafs from the rear. I think there were a couple here somewhere that did that.
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Old 07-22-2007, 11:45 PM   #3
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Re: De-Bouncing

My riding area is in front while I have 55 gallons of freshwater and usually some diesel and/or veggie in the back. Yeah, it rides rough, but it's tough and leaf springs can't leak like air suspension.
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Old 07-23-2007, 10:19 PM   #4
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Re: De-Bouncing

Quote:
Originally Posted by macgyver
...I plan on putting my batteries towards the rear just because of this...-Mac
That's gonna require a rather lengthy run of massive diameter cable to charge 'em though, isn't it? What are you planning on using? (Just curious.)
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Old 07-23-2007, 10:26 PM   #5
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Re: De-Bouncing

how about adding some airbags to the rear this should soften the ride look at low riddder magazines to find them cheap an air chuck valve like with the old air shocks should work fine and cheap. To prevent side sway have one fill line for each one. I know firestone has a terrible reputation now but they are still the industry standard for air bags and the only one I trust because they impregnated with stell like steel bellted radials.
of the the small air bags you can get a pair that will handle up to 15000 lbs apiece for under $ 300.00
the less load you expect the to handle the cheaper they are.
I use them in a tow truck no problems. smooth ride even when towing.
They even reduce body roll in cornering, this will help keep your plates on the kitchen tabel too

To get a car like ride out them ruduce the amont of leaves in your springs until you get the desired ride. If you can fabricate with steel and descent engineer you can make your mounts realitvely easily.
60 to 80 lbs of air pressure is usually about the most comfortable ride.
The only reason you should add more load carring capability than you need is due to the fact that when you reduce air pressure to soften the ride you lose some load caring ability as well.
about 15% more than your gwr is more than adequate.
I am building my bus with trailing arms the lower arms will be triagulated (to elimnated side sway ),air bags, sway bars and no springs period !will ride just like a car
even if you blow a bag they will not collasp completely.
If your wondering they are safe, big rigs use them everyday
Dale
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Old 07-23-2007, 11:01 PM   #6
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Re: De-Bouncing

Buy a rear engine bus!! The back end doesn't bounce on them, and from I can see the front rides pretty good too!!
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Old 07-24-2007, 12:12 AM   #7
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Re: De-Bouncing

Quote:
Originally Posted by delbertinie
how about adding some airbags to the rear this should soften the ride look at low riddder magazines to find them cheap an air chuck valve like with the old air shocks should work fine and cheap. To prevent side sway have one fill line for each one. I know firestone has a terrible reputation now but they are still the industry standard for air bags and the only one I trust because they impregnated with stell like steel bellted radials.
of the the small air bags you can get a pair that will handle up to 15000 lbs apiece for under $ 300.00
the less load you expect the to handle the cheaper they are.
I use them in a tow truck no problems. smooth ride even when towing.
They even reduce body roll in cornering, this will help keep your plates on the kitchen tabel too

To get a car like ride out them ruduce the amont of leaves in your springs until you get the desired ride. If you can fabricate with steel and descent engineer you can make your mounts realitvely easily.
60 to 80 lbs of air pressure is usually about the most comfortable ride.
The only reason you should add more load carring capability than you need is due to the fact that when you reduce air pressure to soften the ride you lose some load caring ability as well.
about 15% more than your gwr is more than adequate.
I am building my bus with trailing arms the lower arms will be triagulated (to elimnated side sway ),air bags, sway bars and no springs period !will ride just like a car
even if you blow a bag they will not collasp completely.
If your wondering they are safe, big rigs use them everyday
Dale
But MAN that's a lot of fabrication.

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=581470
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Old 07-24-2007, 05:03 PM   #8
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Re: De-Bouncing

Quote:
Originally Posted by pjespers
Are there any special tricks to removing leafs from the springs? Smaller U-bolts, etc.?
Basically you need to take out the center bolt. That's what holds all the leafs together. Getting the springs out is the fun part. Been there, done that. I also added helper air springs and yes, there was some fabrication but it wasn't too bad. I had to relocate brake lines and remove the shocks. I never made new shock mounts because I don't have any bouncing issues. Removing the springs was the hardest. You'll probably want to just cut your old u-bolts out (cut-off wheel in a 4" grinder works well) and buy new ones. I could probably remove a leaf or two from my setup but I don't want to go through the process of removing the springs again. Mine seems to ride OK so I'm leaving it alone. Of course I'm always in the drivers seat and It's got a pretty decent ride up there.

My spring replacement: http://trx.punknet.org/gallery2/main.ph ... emId=10496
Air springs: http://trx.punknet.org/gallery2/main.ph ... emId=10529

Chad
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Old 07-24-2007, 08:26 PM   #9
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Re: De-Bouncing

guys I worked at an frame and aligment shope for big rigs when I was in my twenties, and one thing that I forgot to mention is( even If you get your u bolts off in one piece you should not reuse them.!) reason being they stretch when they are torgued. reusing them over strecthes them and it is a good possibility that they will break. for about $20.00 to $30.00 a set its just not worth the risk.
The way I remove leaf springs is as follow, put jack on each frame rail just ahead of the leaf springs. now that the rear end is off the ground, take 2 roll around floor jacks and support axle between leafs springs and the ring and pinion. Jack up equally to releave tension on leaf springs.
PUT SAFETY CHAIN AROUND FRAME AND AXLE. THIS IS MUST. cut u bolts jack rear up a little more a another chain racket strap or bungie on a pipe over frame rails to keep pinion angle constant is a real help too. there is a bolt in the center of leaf spring to hold them together. remove from each side this is a hardend bolt if threads are corrdid use a wire brush on a grinder quick easy lube and remove. tap bolts out you must buy new or reuse stock ones. special bolts obviously so take care of them. remove clamps around springs remove desired springs reassemble in reverse. with new ubolts if I have not stressed this enough. its not pretty when they break.
one final trick try putting thin strips of rubbuer between springs when reassembling old bicycle tubes work great.
on rvs where it matters It will help eliminate spring noise.
hope this helps Dale
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Old 07-24-2007, 08:41 PM   #10
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Re: De-Bouncing

the easiest way to fab new brackests for airbags is to reinforce frame directly center above rear end use a plumb bob to find frame point in center of axle. . make a plate to mount bag to axle, mount plate to frame, make mount to go inbetween u- bolts when reinstalling from spring removal . bag obviously goes between top of axle to frame/
bolt air bags to mounts add air an go.
If you need ideas look at low rider magazines truckin ect. heck you could buy some of their premade mounts and reinforce but more expensive than necessarry. us scrap steel or spend a twenty at a metal supplier anf do it yourself ya more time but you get what you want. a foot by a foot and a 1/2 of 3/8 plate would be more than enough even over kill you could probably use 1/4 but I would drather over do it and know I'm safe. If you have metal bandsaw or go to somebodies shop just cut out your basic shapes and weld together.

yeah its work but I feel good when I accomplish something myself.
dale
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