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Old 07-27-2016, 05:33 PM   #1
Skoolie
 
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Diesel Furnace install

Hi all.

I just got a diesel furnace for the bus a Webastos 2000SC and I was trying to find the installation manual but I haven't be able to find it but I did found another manual for boat installation and I watched some videos and now I'm wondering about something....since I will be putting new floor in the bus I was wondering if is necessary to leave and are of the floor so that the furnace seal sits right against the sheet metal instead of being bolted against the wood floor ?

Thanks.

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Old 07-27-2016, 05:50 PM   #2
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i installed a different brand (Planar) and yes, i had to cut out the plywood to mount the heater. the bolts weren't long enough to penetrate anything more than the metal floor.

i used a router set at just the right depth to remove the plywood.

webasto maybe different.
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Old 07-27-2016, 06:00 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turf View Post
i installed a different brand (Planar) and yes, i had to cut out the plywood to mount the heater. the bolts weren't long enough to penetrate anything more than the metal floor.

i used a router set at just the right depth to remove the plywood.

webasto maybe different.
I could use some way to make the bolts longer but I wonder if even recommended to attached in anything except metal ?
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Old 07-27-2016, 06:11 PM   #4
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Google your heater and find the manual. If you can't find it at least find the tech. Service phone number and call them to discuss your specific install?
I have done a lot of fuel-oil boilers and if the fuel piping isn't quite rite or the air intake/exhaust isn't quite right (1-extra elbow? Piping can only go up/down when leaving the fuel source) not enough turns in the intake/exhaust so you need to add dampers to set the proper air flow.
Diesel fired equipment is very particular to all of those areas just like a Diesel engine and if it's not right your the one suffering.
Find and call tech. Services and discuss your idea and follow there advice as best as you can. A small change isn't going to hurt a whole lot but a medium to major change could mean that your equipment never works properly and keeps shutting down on/with the internal safety switches that you have to troubleshoot and figure out as the owner and installer.
Yeah you need all of the manuals (most online) and to talk to tech support.
At least gain knowledge of what you have from the ones that built it.
Some are good people and some are arrogant? Hang up and call again cause you will 70% of the time get someone different if you get the same butthead again hang up and ask for management and say I want a real engineer cause bob has an attitude that doesn't work with mine?
You need to edumicate yourself about that heater you got before you stick it in there? Otherwise you gonna have problems with no solutions bubba.
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Old 07-27-2016, 06:16 PM   #5
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I did do a search before I posted this thread and like I said only boat installation showed, I will be calling a rep for sure.

The heater is not going to be installed until I know exactly how to properly install it, but is good to know other people experiences.

Thanks.
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Old 07-27-2016, 06:25 PM   #6
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Wasn't trying to be a pain.
Talk to tech. Service.
Will save you down the road.?
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:26 PM   #7
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Hello Pepepito,

I am thinking that i would sleep better knowing my hot furnace was mounted to steel, rater than wood, but then i found this and goodness it is a lot to read and i am not even sure this is what you have but they do confirm

" Now mounting through a wooden/foam floor is rather oddly not mentioned at all in the Webasto manual, however they are obtaining info for us on marine installations and this article will be updated if anything startling comes to light. "

DIY Installing a Webasto Diesel Heater

Good luck!

Can you post a picture of the heater for us....and the bus too please!
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly Roger View Post
Wasn't trying to be a pain.
Talk to tech. Service.
Will save you down the road.?
No problem I will
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Old 07-28-2016, 09:01 AM   #9
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I made my base plate, then attached to UNDER the steps, not inside the bus. The only thing in the bus is my one heat outlet and that's a short distance away on the vertical wall of the step well. In this location the hot air circulation can be felt near the back of the bus (26ft overall) and warms evenly. I set it to 22-23c and 17-19 all night. Ours is a Planar 44D.

The exh. exits under the front bumper, the int. is far away from the exh.
Very pleased.
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Old 07-28-2016, 10:19 AM   #10
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Took about 2 minutes to find installation manual. Not an SC, that didn't come up in any searches, all 2000 air tops are going to install the same.

https://www.butlertechnik.com/techni...top-2000st-d17

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Old 07-29-2016, 04:21 PM   #11
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Unhappy

Quote:
Originally Posted by somewhereinusa View Post
Took about 2 minutes to find installation manual. Not an SC, that didn't come up in any searches, all 2000 air tops are going to install the same.

https://www.butlertechnik.com/techni...top-2000st-d17

Dick
OMG I feel dumb, I remember being on that site but in german....I should have switch the language.........
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Old 07-29-2016, 04:39 PM   #12
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After a quick reading they do not talk about where it can be mounted but how it can be mounted, so it might be ok to mounted on top of wood over a metal plate.

In another note :

"Both recirculation and fresh air modes are possible.
For fresh air mode it must be ensured that the hot air is taken from an area
protected from splashing water and spray and in such a way that no water
can ingress into the heater if the vehicle travels through a water hazard for
which that vehicle is licensed."

I have seen in professional installations that is normally set in to recirculation mode but I'm concern on sleeping in winter areas ( -20C or -30C) overnight and CO2 contamination.

Is it good enough in recirculation mode and have a roof top vent with a fan or something ?

Thanks.
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Old 07-30-2016, 03:04 PM   #13
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For me personally I would cut a hole big enough for insulation to insulate the duct sleeve all the way to the air outlet/register. Don't know that specific heater but most are made for a good bit of ductwork to be connected to them. With a short run of ductwork the metal is going to be very hot. Not saying it will start a fire but long term exposure(winter time) if touching wood it could happen.
So use a good insulation to seperate everything.
My concern was the actual install of the unit itself especially if it is running while on the road and the heater exhaust and intake in the proper orientation?
Heater won't burn right and if a safety switch/switches fail then you have a time bomb?
Sorry, I do a lot of govt fuel/oil,steam,natural gas and are dabbling in bio-diesel boiler installs so safety is first in my head but proper install is second.
Proper air in and out of any diesel fired appliance is what makes it run as designed to much in and not enough out makes it inefficient to much out and not enough in is the same.
What I am trying to say is just cause it works good setting in your driveway doesn't men that it will work like that while going down the road?
The intake needs clean air in and the exhaust needs an un-interrupted outlet for perfect performance.
That's my opinion?
Look at a super saver turkey heater xl install.
I can put one of these on the 1st floor of. Building and heat the 2nd and 3rd and one on the 4th floor to heat 4th,5th and 6th and so on everything radiates up in a concrete construction world but proper install still calls for fresh air and uninterrupted exhaust?
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Old 07-30-2016, 03:07 PM   #14
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Buy a few 10$ 12volt carbon monoxide sensors. Mine came from camping world?
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Old 07-30-2016, 04:36 PM   #15
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Quote:
My concern was the actual install of the unit itself especially if it is running while on the road and the heater exhaust and intake in the proper orientation
Why would you do that, engine makes more than enough heat to heat the whole bus?
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Old 07-31-2016, 08:57 AM   #16
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These are commonly installed in big rig trucks to keep the sleeper compartment warm at night. They are usually installed in the storage area under the bed which has rubber flooring installed but the unit sits up a little off the flooring. So long as there's nothing directly against it or obstructing the air flow it's usually fine so my take with a wood floor is so long as it 'stands' a little off the floor it should be fine. The hottest part is the port which puts the heated air into your living space. The exhaust vents down through the floor and then back a little beyond the back edge of the cab so that fumes don't accumulate under the cab... I'm sure the same is simple enough in a bus, down and back or to the side just beyond the skirt. It's not a large pipe like an engine tailpipe so shouldn't be too unsightly.
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