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Old 11-06-2015, 06:37 PM   #11
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 32
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis International
Engine: DT466
We purchased the Foam It Green Kit from their website *came with 17 free things, goggles, gloves, booties, Tyvek suit, lots of nozzles and fan tips*
The kit we ordered was for 1200 sqft and was $1500. Included four boxes (2 part A's & 2 part B's) the hose and mixing nozzle..and the above listed. If I didn't have three trash bags of overspray, that would have been enough for the ceiling, walls, and floor. Unfortunately, we were messy so we had to order a 200sqft kit (one small part a tank and one small part b tank)which was $400. So our whole project cost $1900 plus the $20 respirators we bought.

You can apply it between 65 & 78 degrees.there is a temperature strip on the tanks that let's you know if it's good or not. It wasn't super messy to clean up honestly. I'm living with a roommate friend and we are building in his yard, so I'm trying get to keep everything as clean as possible. The small crumbles just find a spot on the floor and will only pack more insulation under there. The medium ones almost the same thing. It did take up three large trash bags, but we're super light! Lol

It is closed cell foam and they sell thermal barrier paint for metal buildings. It cures in 30 seconds to 2 minutes. At least the door and Windows were open when we worked in it afterwards. Had respirators and all while foaming and didn't go in again for a few days. Seems good! Foam it green has lots of videos of how to do it (you have to watch these before you do it per instructions) it was super easy too. The tanks attack to a dual hose with two different color foam ingredients. They go into a mixing nozzle and is combined while you spray. One hose/tank is white the other blue. It comes out green.

They do a good job of showing how to do ceilings and walls. One inch is r value 27 I believe....their website has lots of info.
https://www.sprayfoamkit.com/spra.../spray-foam-stories.html

If you stop for more than 30 seconds you change the nozzle (they give you like 10) and add petroleum jelly to the nozzle (supplied) and trigger so it doesn't crystallize. I only stopped two or 3 times but we were prepped well.
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Old 11-06-2015, 06:56 PM   #12
Skoolie
 
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Year: 1986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecrabshomestead View Post
We purchased the Foam It Green Kit from their website *came with 17 free things, goggles, gloves, booties, Tyvek suit, lots of nozzles and fan tips*
The kit we ordered was for 1200 sqft and was $1500. Included four boxes (2 part A's & 2 part B's) the hose and mixing nozzle..and the above listed. If I didn't have three trash bags of overspray, that would have been enough for the ceiling, walls, and floor. Unfortunately, we were messy so we had to order a 200sqft kit (one small part a tank and one small part b tank)which was $400. So our whole project cost $1900 plus the $20 respirators we bought.

You can apply it between 65 & 78 degrees.there is a temperature strip on the tanks that let's you know if it's good or not. It wasn't super messy to clean up honestly. I'm living with a roommate friend and we are building in his yard, so I'm trying get to keep everything as clean as possible. The small crumbles just find a spot on the floor and will only pack more insulation under there. The medium ones almost the same thing. It did take up three large trash bags, but we're super light! Lol

It is closed cell foam and they sell thermal barrier paint for metal buildings. It cures in 30 seconds to 2 minutes. At least the door and Windows were open when we worked in it afterwards. Had respirators and all while foaming and didn't go in again for a few days. Seems good! Foam it green has lots of videos of how to do it (you have to watch these before you do it per instructions) it was super easy too. The tanks attack to a dual hose with two different color foam ingredients. They go into a mixing nozzle and is combined while you spray. One hose/tank is white the other blue. It comes out green.

They do a good job of showing how to do ceilings and walls. One inch is r value 27 I believe....their website has lots of info.
https://www.sprayfoamkit.com/spra.../spray-foam-stories.html

If you stop for more than 30 seconds you change the nozzle (they give you like 10) and add petroleum jelly to the nozzle (supplied) and trigger so it doesn't crystallize. I only stopped two or 3 times but we were prepped well.
for the info. How thick did you spray? 1200 board feet seems like a lot of spray.
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Old 11-07-2015, 07:21 PM   #13
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Mar 2015
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Coachwork: Genesis International
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We filled all of the space in the wall cavities and between all the ribs...i guess the ceiling was about an inch or more think, the floor was about 1/2", and the walls were about an inch as well. We had a lot of overspray..so the 1200 sqft wouldve been just enough. they had an 800 sqft kit...so it just made sense to go big or go home bc we usually screw up on stuff..lol. Also the cavities above the driver and above the backdoor is pretty deep too..so a lot went to that area as well.
If you have facebook, here is the link to our skoolie page where yo ucansee pics and all..I just havent put the pics on my computer to upload onhere yet. Also have a blog but i havent written about that yet..
www.facebook.com/chittybangskoolie
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Old 11-08-2015, 12:12 AM   #14
Mini-Skoolie
 
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I'd like to echo what Nat and others said.

Two part (heat/high pressure applied) closed cell (CC) foam is the be all/end all of skoolie insulation. Likewise for most any other structure you'd ever want to insulate.

In most of the continental US, two inches of CC foam will give you a complete vapor barrier as well as a total air barrier. (In Alaska or the colder parts of Canuckistan you'd need almost 3" to move dew point to the outside of the body...)

You end up with an aged value of about R6 per inch of foam, so a nominal two inches inside your skoolie means it's better insulated than most homes. (An Oak Ridge National Labs study found that R19 fiberglass batts installed typically yielded < R13 walls, and on top of that the fiberglass allows air infiltration!)

CC foam is not corrosive - to the contrary, the waterproofing aspect prevents rust. Nor is it food for mold, and more and more people with severe allergies/respiratory problems are insulating homes with CC foam to minimize their problems. Once it has cured, there are no issues with off-gassing (if it's properly proportioned and applied foam) and it will be 99+ percent cured in the first hour.

The structural benefits are staggering - both tensile and compressive strength exceed 30 psi. Any resonance in the bus body will be practically eliminated, and concerns about a roof raise weakening the structure are minimized as well. CC foam is fairly good at damping low frequency noises as well, so driving down the road will also be more pleasant.

I'm presently building an off-grid, rough terrain camper. It started life as an 8x14 aluminum box on a one ton truck chassis. I just put 4.5" of CC foam in the roof of the beast, and 3" in the walls and floor. The floor is insulated on the underside in order to keep headroom at 6' 5", and I will put a layer of two-part bedliner material between that underside foam and the road when the build is finished.

This is better insulation than you'll find in any commercially built RV, including the 7 figure Prevost coaches. (The Earth Roamer folks only use 1" foam board. Pathetic!) Regardless of how cold it gets wherever I might go, I'll be able to heat it to short sleeve comfort with a thermostat controlled Webasto Airtop diesel heater, generally running on the lowest setting! I have no plans to carry a generator, but I could summer in Phoenix and air condition it with a small room air unit and a Honda 1000 generator if I wanted to.

In a skoolie, I'd put even more foam in the lid - probably 6 inches. Of course, I'd raise the roof so there'd be plenty of room for insulation. Most likely, I'd drop the ceiling a few inches below the insulation to keep wiring and other systems accessible. I'd certainly insulate a skoolie floor from the underside as well, and would probably put at least 4 inches down there. (Warm floors are soooo nice!)

There is NOTHING else you can do to any structure that will contribute so much to energy efficiency, strength and comfort. No matter how tight my budget, I'd find a way to put at least two inches of foam in anything I built.
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Old 11-08-2015, 11:09 PM   #15
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I did 3" in mine all the way around. It's remarkable and definitely the best thing for liveability you can do to a bus
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