Driver seat-belt bracket removal

[MattandLiz]

Hows it going everybody. I am removing all the ceiling panels in my bus except the first one directly over the driver seat. The removal was going great, but im stuck trying to get my last panel out. I worked from the back to the front and now I am struggling to get the second panel out because the bracket that holds the driver seat-belt is fastened into the metal frame and the fastener they used looks like a metal cylinder around a threaded bolt. It is smooth and has no place to grab on to. I have tried vice grips and they spin, but don't un-thread. I will try to post pictures. thank you

[Rusty]

You could use angle grinder and grind them off if they are not to be reused.

If you want to preserve the bolt, grind a flat in the side of the cylinder to grip perhaps.

[somewhereinusa]

Looks like the back side of a huck bolt. There must be a way to get at the head.

[MattandLiz]

Thanks for the responses guys, I would like to reuse them I just have to take it off to remove this last ceiling panel as the bolts go through the panel itself I’ve tried to find the top of the bolt but it’s impossible to get close enough to top to see it. I’m very defeated on this one I may just carefully cut around the profile of the bracket and remove it that way. I’m going to fiddle with it now. I’ll update you guys if I figure it out thank you

[BlackJohn]

maybe use a new cutting wheel on an angle grinder and cut away at silver part without touching the threads. they might break off with a heavy persuader and screwdriver or chisel then. Always something new every day eh? Good luck!

John

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

You can try a pipe wrench, grind flats on corresponding sides so an adjustable wrench would help, a lot of auto parts stores also sell nut splitters that might help.
In my opinion?
They look like a soft metal so even if a wrench gets them off then they will probably to egg shaped to reuse which might be why you are having a hard time getting them (factory technique was to torque down until they distort which keeps them from backing out) which leaves you hunting for the proper threaded lock nuts to re use the same oddball bolts.
I would cut them off and use brand new graded bolts,nuts,and everything for a seatbelt harness.
I save and reuse every screw,nut,bolt, etc.. But when it comes to the seat belts I replaced everything and added some extras. Being cheap on a lot things are fine but with safety in mind a seat belt mounting point is not it.
Good luck

[Rusty]

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223

You can try a pipe wrench, grind flats on corresponding sides so an adjustable wrench would help, a lot of auto parts stores also sell nut splitters that might help.
In my opinion?
They look like a soft metal

They are swedged-on. They don't thread.

[EastCoastCB]

Were they possibly installed before the outer skins or something?
Am I wrong or would it be easiest to simply grind em all off and rivet the thing back on when you're ready. Rivets are PLENTY strong.
I've got hundreds of steel 1/4" pop rivets, I'll send you five or ten for postage if you want.

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

Originally Posted by Rusty

They are swedged-on. They don't thread.

Just responding to the post?
There are several threaded connections that look like they are swaged on but the bolt actually has a cut in it from the tip to the proper depth of the retaining nut and then the nut metal is chiseled down into the bolt to form a lock.
And in my world sweadged/swaged does not form anything that locks it is just a form of opening one piece of metal up big enough to receive another piece of metal into it but it still requires some form of mechanical attachment.
Welding,brazing,key way and set screw, pilot hole for the spot welder to get to the main bolt?
I would cut the stuff off and go back with brand new graded bolts,nuts,lock washers so I knew exactly what I had holding mine or my family's seat belts.
To me swaging/sweating is a friction fit?
Why in the hell would anyone accept a friction fitted piece of soft metal on a seat belt attachment point?
I am sure the engineering is there and thats why there are many of them but for me and my family that just ain't gonna cut it?
My seven seat belts are in the bus chassis (not the frame) and are more solid than any old or new bus on the road.
But I do do steel work for a living and tend to overbuild on anything personal?

[Robin97396]

We have a business in town called "Industrial Fasteners" and I'm sure there's one somewhere around you too. They should be able to identify the fastener system used and how to deal with it.

[Banjo Joe]

I know this is an old thread, but it's the only one on the subject I can find. Has anyone come up with a solution to this? How to remove the bracket and ceiling panels then reinstall after new insulation and wood ceiling are in place? I know I could come up with a way, but this seems like it should be a common step in all gutted bus conversions.

[BarnYardCamp]

Here's an idea...I've done this to reuse some of the holes in the roof ribs where the metal ceiling was attached...I'm using tongue & groove wood...
anyway, I cut the heads off a couple of the screws that held the old metal ceiling panels in place. I cleaned up the cut ends with my grinder. Then, thread them back into the hole I want to reuse, put the wood T&G piece in place then press on it hard enough for the headless screw to make an impression. I then drill the hole in the wood and presto-chango...the hole lines up perfectly.
So, I'd buy some mild steel bolts that will thread into the seat belt attachment holes, cut the head of the bolts off, sharpen the cut off end, thread them into the holes leaving just the points above the surface, put a test piece of wood over it and tap the wood with a hammer to mark the holes.
(Remember to leave enough of the bolts sticking out so you can easily take them out)

[Banjo Joe]

Thanks but there are no threads in a rivet hole.

[BarnYardCamp]

oh...mine was bolted on...
Maybe you could use a fine point marker and a level and do what I did when I skinned over some of my windows. I placed the level at center hole and drew a horizontal line that would still be visible when my sheet metal was in place. Then I drew a vertical line that would mark the edge of the sheet metal and I recorded the distance to the center of the hole from the vertical line to use as a measuring reference. I put the sheet metal in place, lined up the original line and drew a new line on the sheet metal. Then measured the distance and marked it, drilled through the sheet metal and hit the holes perfectly.
Being that your ceiling material will be a little thicker, it may be a little more difficult to get the lines perfectly lined up.
Below is a picture I took when I did the window skins.
Hope this helps.