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Old 03-04-2007, 01:30 PM   #11
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...OOPS....

...I mean....Try THESE guys...

http://www.tacbusparts.com/


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Old 03-04-2007, 02:51 PM   #12
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Thanks.
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Old 03-04-2007, 02:58 PM   #13
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My "Blue Bird store" is A-Z Bus Sales in Sacramento, CA. They are a BB dealer.
They printed me a build sheet for my bus. Other BB dealer should be able to do that also.
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Old 03-04-2007, 04:44 PM   #14
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Re: Drove my bus home today and I have NO HEAT!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by KC10Chief
I went today and picked up my bus and drove it the 20 miles or so home! It hadn't been cranked in a week and a half and it was 24 degrees when I picked it up!......... I let it warm up for a minute and took off! ............
Did you actually let it warm up more than just a minute? As in 5-10 minutes? I dont think that if you let it warm up only a minute at 24 degrees, drove it 20 miles that you would get much heat out of it at all.

Maybe I am missin something here, but I would let it actually warm up 5-10 minutes before driving it especially at 24 degrees.

My $.02
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Old 03-04-2007, 07:53 PM   #15
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If a diesel skoolie is anything like an old benz diesel, letting it idle 5 or 10 minutes won't do it either. With my old 300SD, on a cold day you could let it idle 15 minutes and the temp gauge would move barely, if at all. But, as soon as you actually started driving, it would heat very quickly.

There is a good reason for this. A diesel engine, at idle uses an extremely small amount of fuel because, unlike a gasoline engine which maintains it's fuel/air mixture at all speeds, a diesel at idle is running extremely leanly. This is very efficient. It also means it produces damn little heat.

If you do want to get more heat or atleast quicker heat, block part of the radiator with cardboard or one of those zip up covers. I've seen large trucks in very cold weather with one of those things zipped up damn near all the way, blocking almost all airflow through the grill.

Ofcourse, keeping an eye on the temp gauge while doing this wouldn't be a bad idea.

Another thing to check is after running for awhile, stop, pop the hood and feel the return/supply heater core hoses. If they are similar temps, there is flow. If the return is much cooler than the supply, you may have a clogged core, or, maybe the frickin' idiot that sold me my old f-150 worked on your bus. I drove that damn thing through the betterpart of a winter with no heat. He said the heater core was clogged. Turned out that the dumb sumbitch forgot to remove the rag he jammed into the hose when he swapped out engines.
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Old 03-04-2007, 08:47 PM   #16
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even when it's cold, 20 miles is plenty of time for the bus to come up to temperature. Thats like a half our of driving.
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Old 03-04-2007, 11:46 PM   #17
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My 6.6 never really warms up below 10 degrees. I have a good thermostat and the weatherfront closed up tight and the only thing I notice is a loss in power from having the intercooler covered.
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Old 03-05-2007, 05:21 AM   #18
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one more thing about my 6.6.......

i used to pull the engine fan off in the winter. I found that when thebus was up to temp if i let her idle for a few minutes the temp guage would be down below the normal range. I think it was held on with about 6 bolts with a 7/16" hex head. The fan spins fast enough at idle that it moves a lot of air through the radiator. One summer i didn't put the fan on until july, and only because i was going on a road trip. I do agree that the 6.6 is a cold blooded motor!

but 20 miles! That's a long ways to drive to have your engine not warm up. I can't remember if i ever took that bus for a drive when it was that cold out though. My dt360 warms up pretty fast compared to the ford motor. I think the needle is near the normal range (when it's about 30 outside is the coldest i've driven i think) after about 5 minutes of idling, and 5 minutes of driving at speed.
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Old 03-05-2007, 09:14 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_experience03
My 6.6 never really warms up below 10 degrees. I have a good thermostat and the weatherfront closed up tight and the only thing I notice is a loss in power from having the intercooler covered.
I'd question that t-stat. No matter how cold it is, if the dang thing is closed, you should have basically very little water running through the block, or are the interior heaters so big that they keep the engine cool all by themselves?

Since the intercooler is right in front of the rad, maybe you should actually increase airflow as the heat from the cooler might actually warm the rad?

Or, maybe you could just park the damn thing till april.
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Old 03-05-2007, 11:35 AM   #20
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I don't know if ALL skoolies are plumbed the same, but my old one, the valves ONLY controlled the rear radiators/heaters, and the driver's compartment were ALWAYS tied in to the engine's cooling circuit.
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