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Old 05-10-2016, 03:20 PM   #1
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Drywall screws for framing wood to wood?

I have cut some 2x4s to frame my interior. I know I'll need self tappers for the metal but was wondering if the places I'm attaching wood to wood should have anything other than drywall screws? I'm using pl premium between all the wood to wood and wood to metal connections. I'm not familiar with this so maybe it's a silly question but was just wondering if people use something other than drywall screws for bus construction. I guess I'll throw this out there as well. Seems like most people talk about countersinking screws. Is that not just getting the flared screw head to go past the wood or is there some predrilling technique I'm unaware of?
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Old 05-10-2016, 03:36 PM   #2
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Drywall screw are for drywall. You need wood screws, I like deck screws the best. No need to pre drill holes, just use a cordless drill driver and sink them the depth you need.
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I have cut some 2x4s to frame my interior. I know I'll need self tappers for the metal but was wondering if the places I'm attaching wood to wood should have anything other than drywall screws? I'm using pl premium between all the wood to wood and wood to metal connections. I'm not familiar with this so maybe it's a silly question but was just wondering if people use something other than drywall screws for bus construction. I guess I'll throw this out there as well. Seems like most people talk about countersinking screws. Is that not just getting the flared screw head to go past the wood or is there some predrilling technique I'm unaware of?
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Old 05-10-2016, 04:26 PM   #3
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If you're just talking about framing, It isn't necessary to use wood screws for that, in fact, I prefer coarse thread drywall screws for framing things. It's more affordable and a more deeply cut thread on the shank. Something that might help though, if you have longer screws, say 4" ones, I find that applying petroleum jelly to the screw helps it sink easier and avoids that awful squeal.

If you are talking about paneling the current frame, I would use the pl, along with say a 1" finishing nail or brad. That way you don't have to put wood filler or a plastic cap on the end of it.

Just my .02

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Old 05-10-2016, 05:24 PM   #4
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I use deck screws for big stuff and wood screws for paneling. Nails for molding and such.
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Old 05-10-2016, 05:25 PM   #5
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I've use both a lot. All the gold 3 1/2" deck screws are gone years ago and I've still got a half bucket of the black 3 1/2" sheetrock screws. The black screws not only squeek, but the often snap off half way in. I don't think they are designed for framing type use like deck screws are. Also the deck screws don't rust and leave streaks the first winter.
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Old 05-10-2016, 05:28 PM   #6
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Ya...there is a reason they are called "drywall screws". Use proper fasteners made for wood.

PS...pulling the head below the surface works fine on softer woods, but hardwoods need to be pre-drilled and countersunk before screwing down.
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Old 05-10-2016, 05:38 PM   #7
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Also the deck screws don't rust and leave streaks the first winter.
If he has this problem inside his bus, he has more to worry about than what type of screw he should use for framing..........
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Old 05-10-2016, 05:46 PM   #8
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Well... you know. Like when you're in the creek rinsing out the bus.
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Old 05-20-2016, 12:01 AM   #9
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The shank on drywall screws is not as hard as the shank on a wood screw. I know it may seem like a silly thing debating screws but when you want things to stay together, its better to use the correct screw. I have worked in construction for 15 years, 10 of those as a jobsite superintendent. Drywall screws, contrary to popular belief will rust from moisture. And fairly quickly. Wood screws, deck screws especially, are coated to prevent rusting. Drywall screws are designed to be used in a stationary building. Where as deck screws, due to their higher strength are designed for decks which move and flex with weight and temperature changes. The last thing you want after 2 or 3 years is driving down the road and one of your walls pop loose or something fall apart because the screw sheered off or rusted bad enough to compromise strength. Also, if you use pressure treated wood, make sure your screws are rated for pressure treated. The new treatment that they put on the wood is more corrosive to metal than the old treatment.
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Old 05-20-2016, 01:15 AM   #10
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That new pressure treatment sounds kind of bad for nails too. I like framing with 3.5" deck screws. It's a pain but slightly more accurate than me with a hammer. Sheetrock screws the same length break off before they get buried in the wood, and they immediately start rusting. I had to oil them to keep them from rusting in the bucket. I've never found a good use for those sheetrock screws.
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