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Old 01-03-2019, 07:58 PM   #1
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Dt466e head removal

I'm Almost there. In trying to hoist it out. Can't seem to get it to lift. Do those sensors need to come out before i lift it? I don't see what's holding it down.20190103_195459.jpeg20190103_193544.jpeg
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Old 01-03-2019, 08:40 PM   #2
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you shouldnt have to pull the injectors as long as the harness is puilled... the head gaskets on these things can definitely stick.. make sure you didnt miss a single headbolt or an accessory bracxket someplace. you should have 26 total head bolts.. 6 long and 20 short.

im also assuming the exhaust manifild completely disengaged from the head so you dont have any drag there?


the book says wrap a small pry bar and gently pry up at the corners just enough to release the head from the gasket then to hoist it out..

-Christopher
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Old 01-03-2019, 09:34 PM   #3
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I have all of the head bolts, The exhaust manifold and i think everything else. I'll try the prybar. I didn't want to lift it if it gave thatmuch resistance. It's better to be sure.
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Old 01-10-2019, 10:56 AM   #4
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The head is out and the injectors too. I wonder weekday the chances are that it's warped. The cylinder walls look great. Just a light smattering of oil. Smooth no scarring. I'm think about Just replacing number 2 and 6 pistons and the sleeves. Though i think i should do the main bearings. Any advice on how to check for wear on those? 20190110_104904.jpeg20190110_104909.jpeg20190110_105001.jpeg
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Old 01-10-2019, 11:10 AM   #5
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probably the easiest and oldest method is plastigage.. i wont go into details on how to use it, but in effect its a material that you smash in between the bearing and the crank... then you measure the smashed plastigage to get the clearance..



visually you look for scoring on the bearing inserts which can indicate lack of lubrication or metal contamination that reached the oil and scratched up the bearings and / or crank...



the head I would send out to a shop to be worked, they will be able to tell you if any deformation occured..



if you are going to the trouble of pulling 2 sleeves and pistons, then put in 6 sleeves and pistons. the injectors can be tested for spray pattern at a shop... you may not have to touch them.. though id be inclined to replace the O-rings on them.



I would pull off, visually inspect and plastigage the mains and rod bearings.. me being the way I am would probably also check wrist pins..



but I tend to be the guy who goes a bit over-board on rebuilding stuff to new esp if its something I want to get a lot of miles out of in the future..



-Christopher
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Old 01-10-2019, 11:19 AM   #6
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I am familiar with plastigage. I will do it. The head is on its way to the machine shop. And i guess i will replace all 6 sleeves but can't justify new pistons just rings all the way around. Not sure how wise that is... But Can't imagine the pistons are bad. I got a few drops from the inside on number 2 and 6 ran in and out. So 6 is shot. Ill replace the main bearings for g.p. what was the last thing? Never heard of that.
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Old 01-10-2019, 12:31 PM   #7
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yeah theres no reason to change the pistons as long as the ring slots look good and the piston heads are clean and free of cracks.. rings and sleeves do make sense.



the imnjector O-rings.. on each injector are 2 O-rings.. these separate the fuel rail from the oil rail and from the cylinder and leaking into the top of the head.. they are a known wear item..

-Christopher
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Old 01-10-2019, 09:29 PM   #8
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Thanks once again. That i will do.
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Old 01-16-2019, 12:05 PM   #9
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Note I'm confused as to the measurements of the new rod bearings. I went to order and was asked the size.
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Old 01-16-2019, 12:29 PM   #10
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they may be asking you if you need oversized bearings..(the inserts are nigger, crank size smaller) ie if you had to mill the crank.. you can Mic the crank journal and it should tell you the measurement they are asking for.. take your micrometer and set it where when you move it over the largest part of the crank serv ice where the rod goes that the micrometer is just barely snug.. dont tighten it.. and try not to scratch the crank much with the tool..



that will tell you the size of the crank. (diameter of the of the crank where the rod fits in)

-Christopher
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